Volvo 255B siezed up-gctid406530

[Guest]

Hello:

My name is Ted and I have recently aquired a 1979 Bayliner 2550 Saratoga CB. I was getting the boat ready for the water and the engine stopped, I would guess siezed up at around 1000 rpms. Good oil pressure, temp around 150 and good water flow through the exhaust. Before it siezed it had an odd sort of cyclic noise kind of like 2 cards on a warped bicycle tire. Not loud like a rod or squeel like a main bearing. The boat has had crappy mainetance and from the sound of things the previous owner had run it some amount of time with very low to no oil in the crank case.

Anyway, I am pulling the engine. Heads and all the metal are off. Pistons look ok from the top and heads look good. I have about 8" in front of the damper pully and block is being held in place by 4 bolts. Block casting numbers are for a good cast oringinal block and hour meter says 850.

My big question for you all is...am I missing anything? I don't think I have to pull the 280 outdrive but I could be wrong. I would assume it has a BW drive coupler on the flywheel. Any insight or suggestions would sure be helpfull. I am a disabled vet and only want to do things once and can't afford to have someone do them for me or I would! It sure doesn't help the cockpit sides on this old boat on a trailer are about 7 feet of the ground.

Thanks all

[Guest]

Before pulling the engine I would have removed the transmission and tried to turn over the engine again. Your problem might be in the outdrive or PDS bearing. (Since the pistons look ok)

[Guest]

Can I just pull the transmission from the 280 and pull out the drive shaft? Or, is there something special I have to look out for? I am kind of torn right now as to the initial problem since the previous owner did run the boat with no or low oil in the crank case. He even mentioned all the engine oil in the bilge when he brought the boat in the last time he had it out. I have looked at the oil in the outdrive and it looks good, but as I understand it that doesn't mean there isn't a problem with the coupler or u-joints.

I have also looked online to see if anyone has had an engine just stop dead from an outdrive issue like a u-joint or drive coupler/PDS bearings and no luck.

Thanks for the reply,

Ted

[Guest]

bump
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[2850Bounty]

Ted, is the engine out now?

What are the four bolts that you mentioned?

Are you taking the engine apart to look at the crankshaft bearings?

Can you turn the PDS from within the flywheel cover?

If the engine is out, please replace your PDS bearings while the engine is out. Do this, and you'll never know quite how much to thank me for giving you the "heads up"!

While at it, this is a perfect time to examine a few things re; the out drive. In particular the transmission vertical shaft brass split ring keeper.

More later if interested.

Also, see the BOC Vault thread that I link us to underneath my signature.

.

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:
If the engine is out, please replace your PDS bearings while the engine is out. Do this, and you'll never know quite how much to thank me for giving you the "heads up"!

FYI... the snap rings are a real "treat" to remove! I'd almost rather take a swift kick to the groin than deal with those ever again!

KC :-)

[Guest]

I bought some long needle nose pliers cheap from Harbor Freight and ground down the tips to fit the snap ring. It still wasn't exactly easy but I got it done. Harder was aligning the PDS shaft to slide into the engine by myself. I ended up getting my 13 year old daughter to turn the motor with a wrench to get the splines aligned while I was back there busting my knuckles on the transmission.

Overall it wasn't as easy as some say on this forum. But once done well worth the trouble.

[Guest]

trophyboat wrote:
I bought some long needle nose pliers cheap from Harbor Freight and ground down the tips to fit the snap ring. It still wasn't exactly easy but I got it done. Harder was aligning the PDS shaft to slide into the engine by myself. I ended up getting my 13 year old daughter to turn the motor with a wrench to get the splines aligned while I was back there busting my knuckles on the transmission.

Overall it wasn't as easy as some say on this forum. But once done well worth the trouble.

I agree... it was definitely worth it, but wasn't "plug and play" either. Patience!!! :-)

[2850Bounty]

kellynm wrote:
FYI... the snap rings are a real "treat" to remove! I'd almost rather take a swift kick to the groin than deal with those ever again!

KC :-)

Now now there........ you have to not only round the tips, but you have to tweak the tips in a bit, in order for them to not slip out of the snap ring eyelets.

This isn't a very good picture, but you can see the length that is needed.

If you need a better photo of the tips, let me know.

Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...ings.jpg[/img]

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:
Now now there........ you have to not only round the tips, but you have to tweak the tips in a bit, in order for them to not slip out of the snap ring eyelets.

This isn't a very good picture, but you can see the length that is needed.

If you need a better photo of the tips, let me know.

Rick and Trophyboat:

I have been researching this project here and on other sites. I will be replacing the bearings and checking everything else out. I can't thank you enough for the wealth of information on this site provided by you and others. As I may have indicated in my original post my level of ability far exceeds my physical ability due to being an old disabled veteran with rather limited resources. In fact I am staying in the boat while I do all of this since I can't afford it any other way.

The engine is not out yet. I'm waiting for some help to get it out since the bottom of the pan has to clear almost 8 feet to clear the cockpit sides. I have 2 bolts on the motor mounts and 2 on the bell housing holding it in place still. The heads and everything else are off the engine and it's ready to be pulled out. Once the engine is out, I will be replacing it or rebuilding it. I would prefer rebuilding what I have since it's a good cast block made in Flint in 1978 as long as it's not cracked or damaged beyond repair.

I'll know more when it's out.

Ted

[Guest]

I suggest you don't do this with a heavy V8 but this is how I pulled my 4 cylinder last year. Other suggestions people gave me was to hire a tow truck to get it lifted. Boom truck, fork lift. Most can be brought in fairly cheap. Maybe a friend?

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/710487=30456-engine out.JPG[/img]

[Guest]

FWIW... I used an engine hoist from a local rental place... no problems, just measure how high you need to go and check the hoist max height at rental place before you rent...

[Guest]

I guess it depends on the boat. In the picture above I was as high as it would go in the back of the truck. And this hoist went pretty high. I could have used less chain though.