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AQ260 Base Pan Replacement Update-gctid406054

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    AQ260 Base Pan Replacement Update-gctid406054

    Whoa! Been away from the forum for a while becuase I was busy doing two huge jobs: 1. Replacing the base pan on my AQ260 in my 2556 and 2. Building a 60 foot extension to the wharf we have on our property.

    First of all, some lessons learned for those who may attempt to replace the base pan on a similar engine in a similar boat:

    1. can't remove the base pan without pulling the engine. Or, at least disconnecting everything and lifting it a bit. I learned this the hard way lol. Had to give it a try though.

    2. This was a relatively easy job as far as pulling engines go. I wouldn't hesitate to do it myself again and am planning to pull it this for the winter to paint it and the engine bay.....and do the PDS bearings (will discuss later in this post).

    3. A boom truck makes this job so much easier.

    4. Yes, an automotive pan will fit. Give it a few coats of paint first so you don't have to do this job again prematurely.

    5. Hardest part of the job is the akward angles to reach everything. A large heavy set guy may want to consider hiring a small wirey guy to help!

    6. Removing the raw water pump, the risers, starter, and at least one manifold makes this engine a million times easier to remove from the engine bay and replace!! Next time I will basically have the engine stripped.....just that much easier.

    7. To sling the engine I slung it around the engine mounts forward and used an eye bolt threaded into the aft end of the intake manifold with a small shackle attached. Ran a third rope with a small chain hoist attached to the back end of the engine to allow me to angle the engine for removal and more importantly to line it back up to the flywheel and shaft.

    8. Having a third guy to rotate the prop with the shifter in gear made lining up the splines on the shaft and the flywheel easy.

    9. Do this with the boat out of the water....much harder to sink that way lol.

    10. Even with a new base pan gasket, a few local mechanics advised me to still use gasket maker on the rubber gasket. They swear by it and one of them was a hardcore chevy guy.....said he does it on all his race cars/4x4's.


    The last thread about this job was shut down (and rightfully so) by a moderator. For the record, I asked advice about the job and was given good sound advice by Rick. He does not deserve to be flamed for stressing his point especially given his extensive experience with these engines.

    I certainly appreciated his advice and agree with his views even though for this particular instance I opted to take admittedly unwise route and not address the PDS bearings while I had the engine out.

    Before I go any further......if you own a Volvo Penta AQ series engine/outdrive. Do your PDS bearings when you have the chance.

    Just for clarification, here's why I didn't:

    I don't live in a large populated area. i live on the extreme east coast of Canada just outside St. John's, Newfoundland. We do have a VP parts distributor here but they stock very little due to not that many engines around here like mine, and shipping takes 5 business days at the best of time.

    I work away at sea for 5 weeks at a time and then I am home for 5. When I arrived home a couple of weeks ago, our 3 week cod season was open, the weather was amazingly good, and all my oil was in my bilge instead of my engine. We have a very short boating season here.......the weather here is harsh and this is the first summer in quite some time the weather was "good". To further frustrate me, my father and I were right in the middle of a very large wharf extension project in which we were bulding a 60 foot retaining wall, dredging, and adding 2 berths......on our own. I pulled my boat, and in between excavator operator visits, I started stripping my engine to see what I was dealing with. All the while my 5 weeks of boating season was ticking down. Because the next time I get home from work it will be October and boating season here is, for all intents and purposes, done.

    It took me about 5 days to finally get my engine on the ground because we were working so hard at the wharf extension. I really didnt want to ditch my father and leave him on his own because this was cutting into his Bluefin tuna fishing season on another boat. And he was working so hard over the past couple of months he actually lost 15 pounds! We also had an excavator and operator on site. So my boat took a backseat. I still managed to get my engine out and confirm my base pan was the culprit. All the while, watchin tons of boats going in and out with their cod on flat calm, gorgeous days during what has been our best summer in years.

    Aside from my pregnant wife being lessed than impressed I was spending 12 hours a day working on the wharf and the boat, I was pretty much drained and torn in a million directions. My decision now was, after having already lost a week and a half of boating for my 5 week summer, do I sacrifice another week (possibly more if I run into unforseen problems obtaining parts)of prime boating waiting for bearings, orings and seals for the outdrive......or do I button the thing up and throw the engine back in and enjoy what little summer I have left? I chose the latter.

    I have been happily boating almost everyday since then and I am finally enjoying the boat I have spent so many hours wrenching on over the past 3 years I have owned it. Do I recommend you do the same.....NO Absolutely not! Plan ahead and get it all done while you are at it! I wish I could have.

    Having pulled the engine once now and learning a few tricks to make it easier, I am planning to pull the engine for the winter and do the PDS bearings. I also plan to paint the engine and engine bay as replace/refurbish any other item the engine/outdrive needs.

    Given the circumstances with my father, pregnant wife, and work schedule, I made the best decision for me. It wasn't the time it would have taken me to do the actualy job that deterred me, it was the time I would have lost waiting on parts! I have been regularly gresing my bearings since I bought the boat and I don't run her hard. I am fully prepared to accept any "I told you so's" if my bearings fail over the next 2 weeks lol. I will let you know how I fare!

    Thank you Rick for all your advice and help. I am sorry I did not take your advice this particular time and I am sorry you took some underserved flack on account of me! And I certaininly do not blame you for pressing the issue......people like you are what make this forum so great!!! I hope my little speel helps you understand my reluctance to take sound and wise advice! I will continue to call on your advice and experience in the furture (see next thread lol).

    Phew....that's a lot of typing! On to bed so I can get up early and go boating!!

    Ted, I just now saw this thread.

    Thank you for the kind words and for understanding my redundancy re; the PDS bearings.

    Glad that the engine removal went well for you.

    BTW, if you have the red 1pc V-8 flywheel cover, the PDS will be using two bearings.

    (the B/W - V/P adapter housing also uses two bearings)

    These will be a #6206 and a #6007 industry standard "open" bearings in an electric motor grade.

    Acceptible brands would be SKF, Koyo, most any good Japanese or German bearing, etc. No B-B-Q'd pork bearings.

    (if you can't find open bearings, just remove the seals from them)

    Seals are also an industry standard in either a Timken or TCM 35 X 62 X 7mm. (w/ Timken/TCM you'll get a fully rubber encapsulated seal)

    IOW, there's no reason to order bearings/seals through Volvo Penta.

    With V/P you'd get the same exact bearings/seals, but with the V/P name and p/n on the box and the much higher V/P price.

    Just an idea for you:

    This is an 18" grease gun flex hose with 1/8" TP at each end that will thread directly into the F/C.

    A grease fitting is then adapted to the remote end of the hose.

    The hose is then fastened to the throttle cable bracket where it's easy to access.

    All serviceable F/C's that I send out of here are fitted with this hose.

    About $11 worth of parts.

    Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/711877=30599-flywheel cover grease hose.jpg[/img]
    Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.


      Thanks for the info Rick!! As always....I am indebted to you for your wealth of VP knowledge! I have been happily boating for the past 2 weeks with many many hours on the boat. I've done some over nighters, some fishing, and some cruising. I'm heading back to work on ship now until late September at which time I will be planning to pull the engine again for the winter. If the weather is still good then I will boat for a couple of weeks and then pull the engine to do PDS bearings and totally clean and update the engine compartment. Ie. New bilge pump and floatswitch, renew some wiring, paing everything, basically make her look newish again!

      Hopefully my experience documented here will help someone down the road!