Which battery charges and when-gctid405096

[Guest]

Here is a question regarding the Perko battery isolator switch on my '92 Bayliner 2655: Does the alternator charge both batteries in the ALL position?

It is my understanding that you should only start the engine with the switch in the ALL position since the batteries do not charge in the ALL position. After the engine is started, the switch should be set at the 1 or 2 position, where the battery that the switch is pointing to will charge using the alternator. Is this correct?

The boat manual says that only the on board shore-powered battery charger will charge BOTH batteries simultaneously, when the Perko switch is set at either 1 or 2 (not ALL).

My setup is 1=Starting battery (1000 cold cranking amps) and 2=Deep Cycle (550 cold cranking amps).

Thanks in advance.

[Guest]

92CieraSB wrote:
Here is a question regarding the Perko battery isolator switch on my '92 Bayliner 2655: Does the alternator charge both batteries in the ALL position?

It is my understanding that you should only start the engine with the switch in the ALL position since the batteries do not charge in the ALL position. After the engine is started, the switch should be set at the 1 or 2 position, where the battery that the switch is pointing to will charge using the alternator. Is this correct?

The boat manual says that only the on board shore-powered battery charger will charge BOTH batteries simultaneously, when the Perko switch is set at either 1 or 2 (not ALL).

My setup is 1=Starting battery (1000 cold cranking amps) and 2=Deep Cycle (550 cold cranking amps).

Thanks in advance.

Things I've read from the guys here suggests that only very rarely do you ever turn the switch to 'Both' and that seems to only be when you need extra starting power,,,,,,,and Do Not Run on 'Both',,,,bad for your alternator. Pick just one battery at a time to charge.

Sarah

[Guest]

LazyCrusr wrote:
Things I've read from the guys here suggests that only very rarely do you ever turn the switch to 'Both' and that seems to only be when you need extra starting power,,,,,,,and Do Not Run on 'Both',,,,bad for your alternator. Pick just one battery at a time to charge.

Sarah

I never heard that. I run on both, start on both. But when at anchor for an extended period of time draw down just 1 or 2 to keep the other one for starting.

[Guest]

:right

Sarah,

That was my understanding as well......So, I would only use No.1 to start unless No.1 is discharged. In which case I would switch to ALL/BOTH to get the boat started. Then, I would immediately switch back to No.1 to charge it underway.

No.2 would be kept in reserve to power accessories such as the refrigerator which puts a high load on the battery (and should probably be turned off while underway) and No.2 could be selected to charge underway if necessary.

Thanks.

Ray

[goose]

best setup is to run most times on 1. ONLY use both setting when engine needs help starting because cranking battery is too weak. Use 2 settng when no shore power, no genny in use. Battery charger charges both no matter the perko setting when on shore power. Alternator charges batteries per the perko setting. Although one battery will be charged from port engine, other from starboard engine, if you have twins.

[2850Bounty]

92CieraSB wrote:

• 1 wrote:
• The boat manual says that only the on board shore-powered battery charger will charge BOTH batteries simultaneously, when the Perko switch is set at either 1 or 2 (not ALL).
• My setup is 1=Starting battery (1000 cold cranking amps) and 2=Deep Cycle (550 cold cranking amps).

1... Your O/B charger is very likely 2 bank capable.

When connected correctly, it will/should charge either bank simultaneously whether on OFF, 1 or 2.

I'd avoid ALL/BOTH.

trophyboat wrote:
I never heard that. I run on both, start on both. But when at anchor for an extended period of time draw down just 1 or 2 to keep the other one for starting.

See #2 above.

The OP has two different types of battery banks.

Of the single engine boats that I've owned, I've always cranked on #1 (starting battery), warmed engine while charging #1, once warmed up I would switch to #2 (deep cycle bank).

Now while underway, the alternator brings the #2 bank up to snuff.

I'd then remain on #2 while anchored, etc.

#1 then becomes your reserve cranking bank.

As for engine alternator charging, IMO, I believe that the alternator can be more effective when it can sense each bank independantly (i.e., not ALL/BOTH).

However, it will work either way.

Your call!

.

[Guest]

Always thought the alternator was like the onboard shore charger as a common, never thought about it. Always have run the starter on 1 and at anchor switch to 2 for the house while on the hook. Iv started on both many times, the boats not setup for 24v so I see no harm. Only thing someone said one day was dont run on off.

[Guest]

Be careful flipping these switches when running. Some are alternator safe, some are not. If you have the one that is not, you can/might pop your alternator control circuit. So make sure you have an alternator safe switch if you are planning to flip it with the engine running.

Edit: Looks like only if you drop to OFF, or if your switch is bad would you pop the alternator.

[706jim]

LazyCrusr wrote:
Do Not Run on 'Both',,,,bad for your alternator. Pick just one battery at a time to charge.

I've run two batteries on charge for 30 years now with no problems with the alternator.

Yes, 30 years!

[Guest]

I guess since my boat is really just for day use I switched to two starting batteries. For night fishing and running flood lights for fishing I switch to 1 or 2 but always run on both so they stay charged.

I never had much luck with "marine" batteries.

On my RV I have a bank of 6v golf cart batteries. But even then, when the engine is running both the house bank and the starter battery are charged by the alternator. I think the alternator adjusts to the amount of charge required by the batteries.

I guess when using deep cycle house batteries you don't want to use them for starting. So I think I spoke too soon about that. I still see no reason not to run on "both" to keep everything charged while running.

[Guest]

Read the post by CAPTHARV re: batteries and charging.http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=35340

All those rumors are answered and clarified.

The problem with using "BOTH" position is that unless both batteries are the same age, size, and type, they will not be charged properly.

There is no problem switching the selector while the engine is running, just be sure you dont switch to "OFF". The switches are "make before break".

I agree with Ricks suggestion regarding starting and warming up on "1" then switching to "2" while under way.

[Dadrock33]

I guess this is one of those "DING, DING, DINGS" that someone typed in on another post . . . . . When I looked at the MBSS switch (under the helm seat), I was thinking that the "1" and "2" were referring to the two starting batts (lead acid, guess "flooded" is another name) back by the engine . . . . now I'm hearing (maybe "interpreting is a better word) that the #1 might be the starting batts and the #2 might be the "house batts" . . . . is that correct? My house batts are 90 amphr AGMs, so then, they are being charged by the engine if I switch over to #2 after I'm up and running?? . . .. like I said "ding, ding, ding"

I think I'm getting confused by the usage of the terms "batteries" (as in plural) versus "battery banks" (as in house batts AND starting batts)

EDITED - After going through my particular situation, the above info is incorrect . . . as in, as wrong as I could have been . . . . the MBSS under the helm seat was only for the two lead-acid (flooded) starting batts . . . the house batts are on a whole different circuit and are a whole different story for that matter . . . . I have found a heavy red wire from the back of the alternator to the positive terminal of the inverter/charger but no negative (as in "no return") . . . . the saga continues . . . .

[Guest]

I have a battery isolator installed so the alternator charges BOTH house and cranking batteries regardless of my switch position. My isolator cost me like 80 bux and was an easy install and works perfectly. When at the dock, I have my chargers charging both via shore power so my batteries are always staying as charged as possible.

[2850Bounty]

CPSS wrote:
Read the post by CAPTHARV re: batteries and charging.http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=35340

All those rumors are answered and clarified.

1.... The problem with using "BOTH" position is that unless both batteries are the same age, size, and type, they will not be charged properly.

2.... There is no problem switching the selector while the engine is running, just be sure you dont switch to "OFF". The switches are "make before break".

3.... I agree with Ricks suggestion regarding starting and warming up on "1" then switching to "2" while under way.

1.... Well, that's my line of thinking also.

IMO, the moment that two identical batteries (same age, size, and type) are given two separate usages, are cycled differently, and are cycled to different depths of discharge......, they soon become "Un-Like" batteries.

2.... Yep.

Most are "make-before-break" contactors, so switching between 1-ALL-2 (with the engine running), is not an issue.

However, switching to or through OFF (with the engine running), is what you want to avoid doing..... unless the switch offers "field protection".

If you have young children, you may want to tell them to NEVER touch the MBSS.

3.... Most starter motors don't require all that many Amp Hours to crank and fire up an engine.

Even at 200 amps for 4 seconds, if you were to do the math (in terms of Amp Hours), it's fairly minimal.

So the recovery time is not as great as we tend to think it is.

Now.... if your engine is hard starting, and if you must crank for longer durations, this would change some.

Dadrock33 wrote:
. . . . . When I looked at the MBSS switch (under the helm seat), I was thinking that the "1" and "2" were referring to the two starting batts (lead acid, guess "flooded" is another name) back by the engine . . . .

• 1 wrote:
• now I'm hearing (maybe "interpreting is a better word) that the #1 might be the starting batts and the #2 might be the "house batts" . . . . is that correct?
• My house batts are 90 amphr AGMs, so then, they are being charged by the engine if I switch over to #2 after I'm up and running??
• I think I'm getting confused by the usage of the terms "batteries" (as in plural) versus "battery banks" (as in house batts AND starting batts)

• 1 wrote:
• This would depend on how the MBSS and Banks are configured.
  
  Normally, that would be correct!
• If cabled correctly, yes!
• Perhaps think of it like this;
  
  #1 is generally your Start Load Battery Bank..... it may be 1 battery (more common to see only 1), or it may be 2 batteries.
  
  #2 is generally your House Load Battery Bank..... again, it may be 1 battery (less common to see only 1), or it may be 2 or more batteries. It may even be 6 volt golf cart batteries in series.
  
  If we put the word "Load" into the equation, and think of the two banks as being a "source", it may help us understand the banks.
  
  The MBSS is simply a "source" selector.
  
  The MBSS also becomes a "destination" selector when charging via engine alternator (minus an isolator or ACR).

.

[Alaskanmutt]

I switch it up, Start and run on Batt1, when I shut down I swap over to Batt2 to start and run on

With the exception

When I run my Shrimp pot puller I switch to both cause it is a serious power hog, running it for the ten minutes or so pulling the pots is a huge drain especially when you pull two strings within 20 minutes of each other.

Then I switch back to a single battery when done.