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    Ignition upgrade...-gctid404475

    Looking to upgrade the old points based ignition system this year and hoping for recommendations and also feedback from anyone who has done it...

    1988 OMC 5 litre GM V8 currently fitted with prestolite points distributor...

    #2
    Best purchase a new pointless distributor
    1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
    twin 454's
    MV Mar-Y-Sol
    1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
    Twin chevy 350's inboard
    Ben- Jamin
    spokane Washington

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      #3
      Just did ours last month....

      Go with the full kit (electronic conversion) (don't just replace the cap to the cheap electronic rotorless)....Distributor with shaft incl. and New Cap, Wires and plugs. Also got the High Output Mallory Coils (Although we found out one was defective after a week and caused our engine to fail)...Now replaced and runs real good. Also ask if you still need the ballast resitor or not...apparently there are two types of coils, ones that do and ones that don't.

      We went with all Mallory Parts and came out to $1200 in parts alone. (I think it was worth it).

      Make sure they re-adjust the timing and idle and I guarantee you will love the difference. I feel like I put new engines in her after this upgrage + tuned props and rebuilt carbs and new bottom paint. Get her up to 22 KTS / 27MPH. (Cruise at 2200rpm - 8/9kts)

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        #4
        I went with a Pertonix Ignitor kit and coil a few months ago. All together a little over $100 dollars and well worth it. The kit just replaces the points with electronic points, e.g. no moving parts. I saw no reason to pull the distributor. Install, including adjusting timing, was less than 45 minutes as I recall. Instantly improved starting and idling and engine in general runs smoother.
        Aquatic Muse
        Mount Vernon, WA
        MMSI: 367498870
        '79 Bayliner Santiago w/ Mercruiser 470 power and drive

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          #5
          The issue with replacing the whole distributor is the process of having to get the advance correct. I have the same Pertronix kit and it works perfect. For $100 you can throw an extra module in your spare box and you are still $1,000 ahead.

          I also changed the coil.

          I know our engines are different but they carry all kinds.

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            #6
            http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-0L-5-7L-GM...s_Gear&vxp=mtr

            Here it is no better price anywhere.
            Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

            1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            Manalapan N.J

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              #7
              I did the pertronix conversion and shift interupters on my OMC motors and have never been happier with the outcome. It's been 9 years with no issues other than replacing caps and rotors....

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                #8
                A well maintained and set up Kettering (conventional points and condenser) ignition system will work just fine in almost any application up to about 5000 RPM or even higher.

                The key here is "well maintained and set up".

                The beauty of the Pertronix kits, or similar from other makers, is that once installed, there is no maintenence. It won't give you any better economy or power than a good Kettering system will, but it requires no maintenance, so it will continue to deliver that kind of performance for as long as nothing in the system fails, and they are really quite dependable.

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                  #9
                  Went to Pertonix we site and found there to be many modules and coil combinations. Which specific one did you chose for your boat/motor application. Also, can you say someting about needed adjustment of advance/timing. I assume this will work for a four cyclinder GMC block which I have. Some more details please!

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                    #10
                    Timing is still set the way you do it now, with a timing light. The Pertronix kit that replaces the points only doesn't affect advance. It is still handled by the mechanical advance in the bottom of the distributor. It really only takes place of the points. So dwell doesn't every need to be reset, points don't corrode. I find the boat starts easier and runs a little smoother.

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                      #11
                      Pertronix kit. I'm on my third kit in three boats. Never missed a beat. I won't do without them. If you shop around you can get a good deal on Electronic kit w/ flamethrower coil.

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                        #12
                        I have had all three ignitions (points, GM Voyager and the Pertronixs). Points got very bad for awhile after solid state was mainstream in auto. I think early Mexico condensors were a problem. I went to the voyager system after that and it ran great but the ESA had burnt out on my OMC Corbra and tried as I might - even set up a steady idle at 400 rpm I couldn't get it to shift out of gear on water without turning off the ignition. The Voyager does not work with the OMC/ESA. States that in the instruction/installation manual. This was back in the 2001 time frame. I have since found forum discussions where the interupt swiches can be adjusted and connected to work like Mercury but havent put the Voyager back on. It is a distrubtor change and base timing change (distributor goes into cam at different time).

                        Long story but finally ended up with the Pertronix and a new ESA. Parts for OMC are now pretty available again. and basically no maintenance on ignition for the past six years. They work great. If they ever die I may try the voyager again - it's in the cave.

                        Roy

                        88, 5.7L OMC Bayliner 2455

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                          #13
                          Thanks for all the replies and recommendations...

                          Looks like a replacement distributor kit, having costed this out it isn't all that much more expensive than a conversion kit for the existing distributor plus new cap and rotor and means no concerns about the condition of the original distributor.

                          According to Barrs, this also does away with the ESA module and just utilises the shift interupt switch wired to the new distributor...

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                            #14
                            yachtman wrote:
                            Best purchase a new pointless distributor
                            Aimhii wrote:
                            ................. Go with the full kit (electronic conversion) (don't just replace the cap to the cheap electronic rotorless)....
                            trying wrote:
                            Thanks for all the replies and recommendations...

                            Looks like a replacement distributor kit, having costed this out it isn't all that much more expensive than a conversion kit for the existing distributor plus new cap and rotor and means no concerns about the condition of the original distributor.
                            I deliberately stayed out of this thread due to my unpopular dislike of the Pertronix kits........, but I think that you made a good decision by replacing the entire distributor.

                            .
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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                              #15
                              2850Bounty wrote:
                              I deliberately stayed out of this thread due to my unpopular dislike of the Pertronix kits........, but I think that you made a good decision by replacing the entire distributor.

                              .
                              Rick,

                              It works out only about £90 more expensive to go for a replacement distributor kit... a little more of my time but I feel the benefits are worth it...

                              I'm not sure about the change to the shift interuptor which they say just uses the shift interupt switch and that the overstroke switch and module are redundant.... I guess I'll find out when I fit it... it would be good to hear from anyone who has done this on an OMC....

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