Hi all,
I got a new to me 2001 Capri 160 last week. Had a 2560 convertible that I sold for a 38' Pacemaker that was too big and required too much of my time. Sold the Pacemaker two years ago and wanted something simple to take the kids and wife out for a few hours every once in a while. The 160 with the OB 70 hp Mercury was as simple as I could find.
The boat runs and handles well and is just what I wanted. Only problem is that none of the switches on the helm work (nav lights, anchor light, manual bilge, and horn). I cleaned all contacts with electronics cleaner ans light sandpaper and reinstalled all connections with di-electric grease. Using a multimeter, i verified that all connections were good. Still no action on the switches. I noticed that there is a switch coming off of the positive on the battery that leads to a 30 amp fuse. I connected the multimeter positive on the battery side of the fuse and connected the negative end of the multimeter to the negative post on the battery and got a full 12 volts. I flicked one of the switches on the dash and it went to 0. Looked as if something was grounding out the entire boat.
I downloaded the wiring diagram and decided to check to make sure all off the wiring went to the right place. I found that the heavy gauge wire coming from the 30 amp fuse and the battery switch was connected to the wrong breaker in the helm. Per the diagram, it was to be connected to the 15 amp breaker that seemed to feed the engine circuit power. Instead it was connected to the 6 amp breaker that is pigtailed together with the other breakers that feed the switche on the dash.
A smaller gauge engine circuit power wire was connected to the 15 amp breaker.
I switched the two and, go figure, the switches all worked, but no ignition now. Then I thought, what about the kill switch on the shifter? I hit that and boom! Had everything for about 30 seconds. Then nothing.
I was really hot, sweaty, and frustrated so I put it all back the way it was thinking that "at least the boat will run, screw those switches". But after I cooled down and got off the boat, I returned to my desire to have everything work, especially the manual bilge switch.
I think it may be the neutral safety switch stuck or something.
I am thinking about running a new hot from the battery to the Breakers that serve the switches and leave the engine circuit power on the 15 amp breaker. Does anyone see why that wouldn't work or any potential problems that may cause. I'm no electrician, just a hard working do it yourselfer (can occasionally do more harm that good, especially with electric)
How can a boat with so little wire in it be so tough to decipher?
I got a new to me 2001 Capri 160 last week. Had a 2560 convertible that I sold for a 38' Pacemaker that was too big and required too much of my time. Sold the Pacemaker two years ago and wanted something simple to take the kids and wife out for a few hours every once in a while. The 160 with the OB 70 hp Mercury was as simple as I could find.
The boat runs and handles well and is just what I wanted. Only problem is that none of the switches on the helm work (nav lights, anchor light, manual bilge, and horn). I cleaned all contacts with electronics cleaner ans light sandpaper and reinstalled all connections with di-electric grease. Using a multimeter, i verified that all connections were good. Still no action on the switches. I noticed that there is a switch coming off of the positive on the battery that leads to a 30 amp fuse. I connected the multimeter positive on the battery side of the fuse and connected the negative end of the multimeter to the negative post on the battery and got a full 12 volts. I flicked one of the switches on the dash and it went to 0. Looked as if something was grounding out the entire boat.
I downloaded the wiring diagram and decided to check to make sure all off the wiring went to the right place. I found that the heavy gauge wire coming from the 30 amp fuse and the battery switch was connected to the wrong breaker in the helm. Per the diagram, it was to be connected to the 15 amp breaker that seemed to feed the engine circuit power. Instead it was connected to the 6 amp breaker that is pigtailed together with the other breakers that feed the switche on the dash.
A smaller gauge engine circuit power wire was connected to the 15 amp breaker.
I switched the two and, go figure, the switches all worked, but no ignition now. Then I thought, what about the kill switch on the shifter? I hit that and boom! Had everything for about 30 seconds. Then nothing.
I was really hot, sweaty, and frustrated so I put it all back the way it was thinking that "at least the boat will run, screw those switches". But after I cooled down and got off the boat, I returned to my desire to have everything work, especially the manual bilge switch.
I think it may be the neutral safety switch stuck or something.
I am thinking about running a new hot from the battery to the Breakers that serve the switches and leave the engine circuit power on the 15 amp breaker. Does anyone see why that wouldn't work or any potential problems that may cause. I'm no electrician, just a hard working do it yourselfer (can occasionally do more harm that good, especially with electric)
How can a boat with so little wire in it be so tough to decipher?
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