Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Adding a house powered fuse block to my upper helm

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Adding a house powered fuse block to my upper helm

    I am considering adding a 6 circuit "house powered" block to my upper helm because I've noticed some accessories wired into the engine power and I'd like to break them out and have room for future expansion using the house bank. My question is, "Should I run the positive and negative from the lower helm posts on the house board or block or can I use an unused circuit (with an appropriate sized fuse) from it and take that up to the new sub-panel? I'm hoping this is acceptable so that I don't have to run all the way back to the main terminal blocks at the batteries. I'd like to have a charging port up there and possibly wire the speakers in the radar arch to their own receiver since there are so many inexpensive ones available now. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
    1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
    previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

    #2
    It all depends on what your running at the bridge (spot lights, gps, sonar, radar,etc use substaial power]
    chances are the lower helm is is overloaded or at it max capacity also..

    i have no radar but felt it necessary to run all the way back to the house battery with pos and neg cables plus a separate main fuse, also added a new fuse block at the bridge

    regards
    Ron
    1989 3218
    1988 Boston Whaler 13 Super Sport Limited
    2007 Yamaha VX Cruiser

    Comment


      #3
      Right now there is a spot light installed by the PO and a "cigarette lighter" power socket - that I installed. I was thinking that I would like to move the spot light and socket and possibly add a small stereo to a new sub panel. I'm not sure how many amps to plan for though.
      1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
      previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

      Comment


        #4
        Ron, btw what gauge did you run all the way back to your battery?
        Pete
        1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
        previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

        Comment


          #5
          I don't remember what i ran and its shrink wrapped for the winter.

          Ron
          1989 3218
          1988 Boston Whaler 13 Super Sport Limited
          2007 Yamaha VX Cruiser

          Comment


            #6
            IMO it's best to size your supply wiring large enough to handle the future loads that may be applied and then some. On a larger cruiser like yours and with the potential length being on the longer side I'd personally go no smaller than 8 AWG and dedicate the run.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #7
              Dave, its starting to make more sense to me to do as you and Ron have recommended. Do you have any advice as to which end an inline fuse for the supply should be installed at? Does it matter how close to either end I install it? Also, if I used 8AWG what size fuse makes sense?
              Sorry for all the questions but I can see this is a much bigger job than I once thought.
              1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
              previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

              Comment


                #8
                I used either 6 or 8ga to do what you are describing and then tore out a ton of a mess in the tube between upper and lower station.
                1989 3888
                Nobody gets out alive.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Using 3% voltage drop for critical applications,
                  30' run of 8AWG AMP rating would be at 15.
                  https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvis...e-And-Ampacity
                  Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                  Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                  93 3058 sold
                  92 2855 (day boat)
                  91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                  Longbranch WA
                  Life is Good

                  Comment


                    #10
                    8 AWG is rated as 40 amp wire however as Joon points out the total length whatever it ends up being will have an impact on the wires capability to carry that amperage. Even though the 8 AWG is good for 40 amps a run of 30' (total length positive & negative) would safely handle only 15 amps and a 15 amp breaker would be used to protect the circuit. Here's a blue seas chart that may be easyer to follow.
                    https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #11
                      kwb, I've been finding a great deal of old wiring from a bygone era. It's a lot of fun pulling the old abandoned stuff out and making the wiring organized.
                      Thanks for the online guides. I am going to measure exactly the length I need and add up the amp draw.
                      1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
                      previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The main fuse you will be adding should be installed by the batteries, this is actuall to protect the wire. At the bridge you should install a new fuse block with individual fuses for the equipement.

                        Ron
                        1989 3218
                        1988 Boston Whaler 13 Super Sport Limited
                        2007 Yamaha VX Cruiser

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                          8 AWG is rated as 40 amp wire however as Joon points out the total length whatever it ends up being will have an impact on the wires capability to carry that amperage. Even though the 8 AWG is good for 40 amps a run of 30' (total length positive & negative) would safely handle only 15 amps and a 15 amp breaker would be used to protect the circuit. Here's a blue seas chart that may be easyer to follow.
                          https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437
                          OK, so I'm learning that the run calculation must include positive and negative. Working on that basis I would need to determine gauge with a run of almost 60'. Therefore, I could potentially require 1or 2 gauge wires. Thinking realistically, I'm not sure how possible it would be to pull wires of that gauge up the wire chase at the lower helm to fly bridge. I'm not a fan of surface mounting wires or plumbing so if I can't conceal the wires properly then I may need to rethink this project.
                          I think I should go to the store and hold two wires of that gauge together and measure their combined diameter. I know there is at least one abandoned coaxial cable. Perhaps I could pull it out and run the new wires at the same time?
                          1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
                          previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

                          Comment


                            #14
                            What do you plan to power from the new fuse panel? 20-25 amps may be More than enough for your future loads. 2 AWG is basically small battery cable roughly 1/2" OD.
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Dave,
                              I was planning on moving the spot light and charging socket off the cranking battery and onto this new panel. The only thing I can think of right now that I might like to add to these on the new panel would be a stereo receiver (no additional amplifier). I'm also thinking about possible multi-feature displays that will undoubtedly be available more reasonably in the future. I guess if 25 amps was my capacity then I could daisy chain the positive and negative off the lower helm house panel. That way the circuit wizard recommends 6AWG. Sorry, I'm doing a lot of thinking out loud here but I am enjoying learning about this and bouncing my plans off you people.
                              1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
                              previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X