Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Replacing Anodes Early?

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Replacing Anodes Early?

    I'm running a Bravo 3 leg on my Ciera 2455. I went out to check the boat the other day (sit in the water year round) and noticed one of my lift ram anodes is now gone. I wasn't planning to do a haul out for a month or so, where I was going to replace all the anodes. What's the advise here? Can i just unplug the boat, reach down into the water and bolt on a new one to get me through a month? I'd hate to spend $300 twice this year to haul out the boat. I'll also need to to bottom paint and a wax which would take a weekend where I just don't have the time to do until the end of March

    Thanks.
    2001 Bayliner Ciera 2455 5.7 Merc MPI, Bravo 3
    2009 Subaru WRX STI
    2017 stick with a nail on the end of it


    Victoria, BC

    #2
    Assuming your 2455 is moored in salt water...
    all depends how brackish your marina is.
    we recommend every 6 months on B3.
    My advice would be look for a trailer.
    Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
    93 3058
    92 2855
    91 Fourwinns 205
    Longbranch WA
    Life is Good

    Comment


      #3
      Keep a calendar of how often you replace your zincs, how much erosion and the general condition. Just unplugging you boat isn’t going to help much, it has more to do with the dock power and boats around you.
      Get a zinc on that lift ram right now and make sure it has good contact and is tight.
      Next, take a multimeter and check the milivolts occurring around your boat. Extent the positive lead into the water a couple of feet, I use some primary wire with about 6” bared at the water end, then ground the other end to a known ground on the boat. Someone will chime in with the max reading, but it’s low. Here’s a decent explanation https://s3-ap-southeast-1.amazonaws....03b8249d8c.pdf
      On my last boat I had the mercathode system that seemed to help in my particular case.
      P/C Pete
      Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
      1988 3818 "GLAUBEN
      Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
      1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
      MMSI 367770440
      1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
      Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

      Comment


        #4
        Did it get eaten away or fall off? It’s fine to replace the missing anode while it’s in the water, check the bonding kit on that one trim ram but as Joon pointed out you’ll want to keep up on those anodes when your moored up most of the time.
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #5
          It fell off when I took a brush to remove some seaweed that was wrapped around the leg. I could see it sink to the bottom. The anode on the other ram is still there, along with the plate anode. The trim tab anodes still look really good too. I think I might go out and get a half lift at the local marina so I can replace these on the weekend.
          2001 Bayliner Ciera 2455 5.7 Merc MPI, Bravo 3
          2009 Subaru WRX STI
          2017 stick with a nail on the end of it


          Victoria, BC

          Comment


            #6
            You got some good advice. Check all of the wires that make up the continuity pack. If all the wires are intact, don't pull the boat, you can get it with the drive lifted. If any of the wires are missing, I'd replace them and get fresh zinc. Make sure your MercCathode is connected.
            Check out Section 7 of this pdf: http://www.ta-group.at/dokus/service...avo_drives.pdf
            Tally and Vicki
            "Wickus" Meridian 341
            MMSI 338014939

            Comment

            Working...
            X