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Bayliner discovery 246, 2007 - Holding tank and Macerator.

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    #16
    Originally posted by 706jim View Post
    To remove the wall in the rear berth, you have to remove two Phillips head screws holding an "L" shaped upholstered panel that the rear table leg holds in place. The screws have decorative plastic covers on them which can be pried off to expose the two screws. When these are removed, the L panel will drop down and the panel can be pulled out. There is a plastic bracket which in theory holds the bottom of the wall in place. You would slide the wall about an inch forward to disengage this plastic bracket and then the wall comes out. You will probably end up breaking the bracket but the mattress holds the wall in place quite well without it. As for access to the holding tank; GOOD LUCK! You will be able to see it but it is extremely difficult to get to with the heater in place. And removing the heater will pretty much mean you have to cut the fresh water tank fill hose first. And BTW, you will be doing most of the work with your left hand with your head stuffed into the berth.

    Not the most user friendly place to work in.
    Thanks Jim,

    Some photo will be very much helpful, can you please?

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      #17
      I’ve never had to remove the upper “L” shaped component to remove the hatch in the quarter berth. Once the mattress is removed, I simply grab the side of the hatch near the bottom and give it a good yank. It is the panel to the left when looking back towards your CO monitor. It is under the brackets holding the table leg. There is a friction latch holding the bottom of the hatch and requires a little force to pop it loose. The bottom of the hatch should then slide towards port and it comes off easily. Put it back in reverse order, giving it a good push on the bottom where the latch is to put it back in place. As everyone has mentioned, there isn’t much room. I just replaced the pressure relief valve on the hot water tank and that wasn’t fun and it’s just inside the hatch. I’ve worried about the macerator since buying the boat so I’m vigilant about what goes in the head and how long the pump runs. They removed the water heater when installing the heater in my boat and it doesn’t appear that the water filler hose was cut. The valve handle at the transom is open when the handle is in line with the hose.
      Jerry

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        #18
        I'll see if I can dig up the pictures I took when installing the heat exchanger loop.
        2007 Discovery 246
        300mpi BIII
        Welcome island Lake Superior

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          #19
          Originally posted by John V View Post

          Thanks Jim,

          Some photo will be very much helpful, can you please?
          This photo will likely explain the position you will be working in. The opening where you can see the cats face is the access under the steps - lower body is in quarter berth - where you need to reach is just to the left -- right out of reach of your paws! Lol. For all of the 246/266 owners that have worked under there will likely understand!

          Pro Tip: Bungee the all three steps in the up position will provide some much needed light to see in that area!

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            #20
            Originally posted by Gtown View Post

            This photo will likely explain the position you will be working in. The opening where you can see the cats face is the access under the steps - lower body is in quarter berth - where you need to reach is just to the left -- right out of reach of your paws! Lol. For all of the 246/266 owners that have worked under there will likely understand!

            Pro Tip: Bungee the all three steps in the up position will provide some much needed light to see in that area!
            Thanks Gtown, I think I better loose some lbs first

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              #21
              Guys ...

              Here's my plan, I'll open the hatch, then I'll try to reach back of the pump, and then by using flat screw driver manually turn the pump to unclogged it (because fuse blown is the symptom of jammed motor.) If the pump move smoothly, reinstall the right fuse and run. Done!

              If that doesn't work, I'll have to go through with replacement procedure, No other Choice.

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                #22
                Guys,

                The pump is so stuck and I decided to change. But the space is very limited as forum mates said.

                it is not very easy to remove the water heater although I can remove that for good as I am in tropical weather.

                finally I decided to cut the rectangular hole on top of the Macerator. I'll close win wooden plate later. I am not sure this is a good idea. But I just did.

                Cheers!

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                  #23
                  You can see what I mean about removing the water heater. The fill and vent hoses pretty much have to be cut. I'm sure Bayliner plumbs all of this stuff before attaching the deck to the hull. Working on anything in this area is very trying as a result.
                  2007 Discovery 246
                  300mpi BIII
                  Welcome island Lake Superior

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                    #24
                    Guys,

                    Good news. Have successfully changed the Macerator from original Jabsco to TMC (Taiwan). All system running well, 2 years storage of black water pumped out (Actually yellowish). Smell is terrible even I discharge at sea with some speed,

                    I’ll make the wooden hatch cover later and will post here. Now the opening is covered by plywood sheet.

                    Thanks for all sharing and inputs.

                    John V.
                    Burma.

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