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    Genset mostly dead or all dead?

    Started investigating the genset on the 3870 I recently bought today. It's a Westerbeke BT-8.0-61 that shows pretty bad corrosion around the lower parts, may have been submerged in water for an extended period. My question: the engine does seem to be seized to some degree. Do you think this genset can be saved? I'd really like to get it going but if it's fused together that's probably not going to happen. Somebody told me that these old engines rarely actually seize but I don't know how reliable that information is. Here's some pics:


    #2
    I removed the starter to see if I could turn the flywheel by hand but it was no dice. Now I've shot generous helpings of penetrating oil in and around the flywheel housing and I'll try to find a breaker bar tomorrow to give me a bit more torque. I'm not real optimistic though. Sorry the pictures didn't maintain their proper orientation, not sure why that happened. Think there's any hope for this genset?

    Comment


      #3
      turn the flywheel by hand?... maybe use a prybar on the flywheel teeth thru the starter hole.... but if saltwater has gotten into the cylinders, you wont be able to free it up...
      Ive also seen generators freeze up due to corrosion even though the engine is perfectly fine... but you dont really know until you separate them.


      NU LIBERTE'
      Salem, OR

      1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
      5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
      N2K equipped throughout..
      2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
      2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
      '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
      Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

      Comment


        #4
        Have you pulled either the injectors or glow pugs to release any kind of compression? Squirting some penetrating oil, like diesel mixed 50/50 with gear lube and letting it soak a bit may help. Working the crankshaft with a long bar, what we called a “Johnson Bar” when I was a kid, back and forth should get things loosened up. It’s a bit tricky to keep from breaking the crank bolt loose.
        You could also look into a borescope that plugs into the USB port on a laptop. With all of the colonoscopies they have really come down in price. I got mine from amazon and use it quite a bit. It should go through the glow plug hole and allow a look see inside the combustion chamber. You should also check your manuals and parts lists. That may be a Kabota engine and parts are a whole lot cheaper from them.
        P/C Pete
        Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
        1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
        Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
        1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
        MMSI 367770440
        1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
        Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

        Comment


          #5
          I’d remove the injectors from all cylinders to verify none are hydraulically locked. Then, as others have suggested, you now have a opening via to inject penetrating oil.
          Jim Gandee
          1989 3888
          Hino 175's
          Fire Escape
          Fyrflyer@ca.rr.com

          Comment


            #6
            Me ... i would remove from boat, place in a open area and drain the oil and fill with kero or diesel to the brim. Let soak for a few days or a week. Old school pickling .
            Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

            1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            Manalapan N.J

            Comment


              #7
              Chief Alen's got the right idea with pulling the engine and filling with diesel. In my years of auto machine shop I have broken loose some stuck motors, an old Allis Chalmers Tractor I pulled the head and pounded down on a stuck piston got it to move with penetrating oil and it ran OK under load and smoked at idle, an old Hercules I ended up drilling holes in a piston and breaking it out, needed bored and sleeved back to standard. So you have probably got some cylinder to piston ring damage to what degree, who knows. Another way to break loose an engine is compressed air, 100 psi on a 4 inch bore is about 1200 Lbs of pressure.

              Good Luck
              2550 Cierra, AQ260 Volvo Penta (350 Chevy)
              Laporte, CO

              Comment


                #8
                +1 on getting out of the boat. It could be the gen end seized, and the motor survived. Once out of the boat I would separate the two. If the engine is usable, I think aftermarket replacement generators are available. Mine is an Onan with a Newage generator end.

                The engine appears to be a Kubota D-950-B, A member of the 70mm stroke series. I found a couple of manuals for these engines on the web.
                '89 3888
                "RUM AWAY"

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                  #9
                  So I got the valve head cover off today and exposed the injector bodies but I wasn't able to actually get the injector bodies out of the block. They seem in there pretty tight and I don't want to break them. The top end of this engine looks like it is in really good shape. I hate to give up on it yet. The valve train has no corrosion, there has been oil in the crankcase since this thing last ran. I was able to pour about a liter of Marvel Mystery Oil down the rod holes of the valve train but I'm not sure how much of that would actually make it into the cylinders. I'll let it sit and find a decent breaker bar. If I can't break it with a bar then I guess I'll try to get the generator back side off and see where that goes. I appreciate the advice to just remove the whole thing and take it to some shop space but that's not really an option for me. Not sure how i would pull the whole engine by myself and I don't have any good place to take it to anyway.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Pouring down the pushrod holes only leads to the crankcase not into the cylinders.
                    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Why not pull the cylinder head? It would be easily manageable by yourself and you could then see the condition of the cylinders and be able to soak with the Marvel Oil you've got. Pretty inexpensive to be able to know exactly what you've got, pretty much just need a gasket kit.

                      James
                      1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
                      Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
                      Lowrance Electronics!
                      MMSI
                      316030379
                      VHF CFA2587
                      Boating on Georgian Bay

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I’m living the same dream with my 8.0 westerbeke
                        I removed the head and found the valves were rusted in the guides but I still couldn’t turn the engine even with the head off.
                        Im going to try to seperate the engine from the Gen end but I’m told it may not come apart due to the corrosion.
                        Sorry to jump on the post but I will watch with interest
                        My felling is it’s the generator end that seized so its scrap.
                        Westerbeke wants $4500for the Gen end only.
                        2001 Bayliner 3988 330 hp Cummins 6bta m3
                        950
                        Located in Blaine Harbour Marina

                        Comment


                          #13
                          the injectors will have to be pried up after the retainers are loose.... removing the glow plugs would be easiest, but they could be swollen and hard to remove...which would indicate that they NEED removed and replaced...... but I sure wouldnt pull the cylinder head off until I was certain it is the engine that is the problem.


                          NU LIBERTE'
                          Salem, OR

                          1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                          5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                          N2K equipped throughout..
                          2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                          2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                          '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                          Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I wouldn't try prying on the flywheel. You'll just break teeth off and then you'll truly be screwed. In answer to the question on the photo of the injector, No, I don't think they will be threaded in. I've never worked on that engine so take this advice as possibly being worth exactly what you are paying for it but that injector is likely a friction fit into the head with maybe a copper ring to seal it and then held in by that collar which you have already released. You need a Westerbeke service manual. That's going to be cheap compared to the damage you can do because you don't know what you are doing. Get the manual before you go any further.
                            R.J.(Bob) Evans
                            Buchanan, SK
                            Cierra 2755
                            Previously 43 Defever, Response LX
                            Various runabouts, canoes & kayaks

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Didn't make it down to the boat today but tomorrow I'm going to go down. I did find some good information on removing the fuel injectors and I'll post that here but I think I am going to concentrate on getting the generator back end off the motor. The engine looks like it is in very good shape, I don't think the cylinders are the problem. All the visible corrosion is back around the flywheel end so that's what I'm going to focus on. Here's how the injectors should come out:

                              The procedure is remove the flange bolts, spray some penetrant around the injector then put a wrench on the top of the injector and twist loose. The injector pulls out but the twisting is just to break the injector loose. It does not screw out. This is just for ease of removal. Do not rotate the injector to the left.

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