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Water in #7 Cylinder

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    Water in #7 Cylinder

    Many of you may have saw the post about the 2850 Contessa that was available. Well I am the lucky one that jumped on it. "Prequel" is a beautiful and well maintained and taken care of boat and the previous owners are absolute wonderful people. I can't say enough about them! So as you may remember there was water in #7 cylinder. She has been in the salt for the last 5 years so I presume Manifolds and Risers are due anyhow. My question, what other steps or tests do you suggest that I start with?
    BTW, I brought her up from Tacoma yesterday to Lake Washington and she ran beautifully.

    1986 2850 Contessa
    1994 350 (5.7) Mercury Mag
    290 Volvo DP
    Ted G
    The Great PNW

    86 2850 Contessa SB
    Designers Edition
    Mercury 350 Mag
    290 Volvo DP

    #2
    My first place to look is at the joint between the riser and the manifold. It’s the classic failure point as the walls thin out. If you got water in the oil, Seafoam and a few repeated oil changes will clean that right up. That it ran well under power says compression keeps the water out while the engine is running, but may allow invasion when shut down. Btdt. Pop the riser off and plug off the exhaust hose as you take a look. Parts are common and prices vary widely, even for the same part at different sellers. If you are a member of a boating, yacht club or RBAW, Fisheries will probably allow a discount. You just need to ask.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
    MMSI 367770440
    1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
    Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

    Comment


      #3
      Compression test and a cooling system pressure test is where I’d start. Like Pete said removing the exhaust components will give you a great visual of where the problem most likely is.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #4
        On the one hand it could be a leaky gasket between the riser and exhaust manifold, on the other it could be that the riser or manifold has rotted through somewhere with the same result. In salt water 5-7 years is usually the time for at least inspection, if not replacement. When you get them off you want to look inside the exhaust ports to see if the exhaust valve stems look rusted. I'd also do a compression test because water in a cyl, can rust exhaust valve stems and this can cause a sticky valve and resultant rough idle due to loss of valve sealing when they close. Check for milky oil deposits under the valve covers, change oil as needed to get the moisture out.
        88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
        98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
        07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

        Long Island Sound Region

        Comment


          #5
          Some pix, 1st is what milky oil under the valve cover looks like, second is what new sealing surfaces look like, last one is what exhaust ports/exhaust valves that are not rusted (manifolds/risers still good) look like.....the rust on the cyl head is because the gasket traps moisture...
          exhaust manifolds can be tested for leaks by filling them with Acetone (careful it is very flammable) it will find leaks that are very small because the surface
          tension is less than water...but at this point, I'd say replacement is the better way to go, Barr aftermarket is very good for the price.
          Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	2 Size:	14.1 KB ID:	405280Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	1 Size:	45.2 KB ID:	405281Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	1 Size:	102.7 KB ID:	405282
          88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
          98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
          07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

          Long Island Sound Region

          Comment


            #6
            If you know that water is getting into a cylinder you should not try starting it again. If there is water in it you run the risk of hydro locking a cylinder... very bad! It sounds like it may be OK so far so maybe you got lucky.
            1979 32 Uniflite Sport Sedan twin 270 crusaders
            2003 Bayliner 2152 210 Classic 5.0 mercruiser - sold
            I wish I knew now what I didn't know then

            Comment


              #7
              Anytime you suspect water in a cyl the first thing you should do, is drain the block and manifolds, remove the spark plugs, ground the ignition and crank the engine over to blow out the water. Then spray fogging oil in the cyls and crank it over again. This is how I saved my engine when it had salt water in 2 cyls from blown head gaskets last year. I did this in September and when I took it apart a few months later, there was no rust in the cyls at all.
              88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

              Long Island Sound Region

              Comment


                #8
                Top end overhaul, I replaced the old heads with re-man marine 4.3 heads and Fel/Pro marine gaskets. Then added a new Volvo style center riser exhaust system.
                88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                Long Island Sound Region

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thank you for all the input. In a couple weeks hopefully I'll get a weather window and be able to start pulling it apart.
                  Ted G
                  The Great PNW

                  86 2850 Contessa SB
                  Designers Edition
                  Mercury 350 Mag
                  290 Volvo DP

                  Comment


                    #10
                    At the very least #7 plug should be removed and the engine turned over to expel any water that may have been introduced after shut down. Then a shot of oil in the cylinder turning the engine over again. You don't want the rings to become rusted to the cylinder wall nor water to seep past the rings into the crankcase.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                      At the very least #7 plug should be removed and the engine turned over to expel any water that may have been introduced after shut down. Then a shot of oil in the cylinder turning the engine over again. You don't want the rings to become rusted to the cylinder wall nor water to seep past the rings into the crankcase.
                      Dave the OP can correct me if I am wrong but in another thread when he found this boat for sale it had been sitting with this issue for about a year, therefore a few more months won't make a difference.
                      1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                      Mike

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Didn’t catch that Mike, assumed the engine was currently in use and running. OP should definitely check the condition of the oil then.
                        Dave
                        Edmonds, WA
                        "THE FIX"
                        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                        Misc. projects thread
                        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                          Didn’t catch that Mike, assumed the engine was currently in use and running. OP should definitely check the condition of the oil then.
                          Sorry Dave I was wrong, I found the other thread and the engine was running and the loss of cylinder 7 happened in the fall which is why the boat was sold. Anyhow he should check the oil as the engine has been ran this way. I agree with pulling the plug and turning it over to get any water out.
                          1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                          Mike

                          Comment


                            #14
                            No worries, we'll wait to hear from the OP. I am curious to hear what the pressure readings on #7 are.
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If it’s like a Sea Ray that I bought 15 years ago the water caused the valve seat on the exhaust to melt preventing it to seal and therefore the compression was zero. Reading the other post the P.O. says the engine ran well on 7 cylinders which is the same as the Sea Ray I had. Like you said we will just have to see what the OP uncovers.
                              1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                              Mike

                              Comment

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