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Why are the bearings failing????-gctid401869

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    Why are the bearings failing????-gctid401869

    I am confused as to why my wheel bearing fail every year. My boat weighs 7000 lbs and the current trailer is a 11,000 lb Tuff tandem made in Washington state. It has disk brakes with surge and a grease fitting in the front of the spindle which forces grease to the back bearing. I think it is a good set up, but each year I find water inside and the bearing are either rusted or caked with thick dry grease. I always use marine grease and try to never mix brands. I did notice this year that the same brand grease was a slight different color light blue than last years. I always use new bearings, races and seals. Should I re-grease at the end of the season as well as the the beginning ? Help Gary :livid:
    GARCHAR
    1988 2655
    2009 Volvo Penta 5.7 300 hp DP F3s
    Twice Past Commodore
    Northwest Outboard Trailer Sailors, Eugene,OR

    #2
    It is a good idea to also change out your races for the bearings. Not hard, plenty of youtube vids and I have some photos on my site when I did mine. Also pays to buy the best bearings, not the chinese stuff...

    http://www.doug-cook.com/goaweightotrailer.htm

    I also use a IR gun to check bearing temps ever time I stop... Good to see if a bearing is starting to be hotter than the other five...
    Doug ;}
    MMSI: 338068776
    "Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)


    sigpic

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      #3
      with your setup you shouldn't have this problem as it's the best you can get here.

      Disk brakes can run hotter and if you dunk the trailer into the water immediately after you drove for a while in an area where the trailer brakes were used quite a bit they may be hot.

      Next thing is that the spindles could be aligned poorly but you would see this on the uneven wear of the tires.

      Then the axle could be not square to the tongue. Measure from the center of the coupler to the tips of both spindles. Anything more than 1/8" and I would align it.

      Last but not least and the easiest one. After packing the bearings and installing the wheels: did you press grease into the hub while rotating the wheel until grease came out all around the zerk fitting? If you don't do this there are air pockets in your hub, the assembly is hot when you dunk it and water will be pulled in through the rear seal. If you trailer a lot you should grease more often to make sure all grease loss (= air pockets) is replenished.

      Oh, and one more thing. Did you get the correct seal? For the typical axle there are 3 different types available and the ID is different. If you use the wrong one you have a problem.

      I had my last trailer for 6 years and trailered a lot. Never even repacked the bearings! Only exchanged the grease by pressing the old one out through the front.

      Just once more: if you press grease into the zerk fitting slowly rotate the wheel at the same time!!!!!

      Edit: just remembered. If you drove a long distance with up and down and you don't want to wait for the hubs to cool down shoot some grease into them until the almost liquid one comes out at the front. Fills all voids generated during the tow.

      Comment


        #4
        Thank you for the input. The information is spot on. I will fill the hub cavity with grease and see if that helps this year. The axles should be good because the tires are perfctly worn. Thanks again. Gary
        GARCHAR
        1988 2655
        2009 Volvo Penta 5.7 300 hp DP F3s
        Twice Past Commodore
        Northwest Outboard Trailer Sailors, Eugene,OR

        Comment


          #5
          great if this was the only problem! I know, I know..... Rotate the wheel while filling it.....

          Unfortunately it is sometimes fishing in the dark if you can't see the stuff. Then all possible problems have to be mentioned.....

          Comment


            #6
            Garchar wrote:
            Thank you for the input. The information is spot on. I will fill the hub cavity with grease and see if that helps this year. The axles should be good because the tires are perfctly worn. Thanks again. Gary
            I always fill the cavity as much as possible when replacing bearings, each spring they should be cleaned and re-packed, I always carry a spare hub with bearings, or at least spare bearings with the race and seals.
            Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

            Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
            Twin 350 GM power
            Located in Seward, AK
            Retired marine surveyor

            Comment


              #7
              To Go Aweigh 2452,

              Doug,

              You mentioned in a couple of discussions that you use an infared tool to check wheel temperatures, what readings to you get and do you aim at the hub where to bearings are or at the wheel. I just bought a tool and want to know what temperature to look for.

              Cheers,

              Mike
              1997 2355
              5.7 liter Alpha 1 Gen 2

              Ladysmith Vancouver Island

              Comment


                #8
                i towed my 2452 3000 miles back from virginia, then 2000 to az and back, then 1000 to powell and back... i haven't even checked the wheel bearing grease. argghhh! i will on monday (tomorrow)
                cglazier - "Fiftybucks"
                1995 2855 7.4 bravo II

                Comment


                  #9
                  I haven't had a bearing failure since I installed bearing buddies.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Gary, my take on this;

                    Hubs/bearings are warm when we hit the water. As they cool, the pressure within the hub deminishes, and pulls a mild neg pressure.

                    Somewhere this wants to equalize, and the easiest area is usually at the seals.

                    The rubber caps should flex some and account for some of this, but I'll bet that they're not doing it.

                    I like the spindles that are ported to the inside. This cavity fills with the excess grease, and there's enough grease in this cavity to simply shift back and forth as the pressure changes, so water does not enter the hub area.

                    However, EZ Lube, Sure Lube, Super Lube aren't their doing spindles this way any longer... they're porting this back towards the hub cap.

                    So if the rubber cover isn't flexing to account for this, water is pulled into the hub area as to equalize.... or the cover is not sealing. Could be either.

                    .
                    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Whenever I stop while towing I reach down and feel the wheel hub for over heating, I also kick the tires.
                      Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                      Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                      Twin 350 GM power
                      Located in Seward, AK
                      Retired marine surveyor

                      Comment


                        #12
                        boatworkfl wrote:
                        Whenever I stop while towing I reach down and feel the wheel hub for over heating, I also kick the tires.
                        Is that in frustration because you had just burned your hand? :kidding
                        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Lots of good info to follow up on. Thanks for the response to all and of course Rick too. Gary
                          GARCHAR
                          1988 2655
                          2009 Volvo Penta 5.7 300 hp DP F3s
                          Twice Past Commodore
                          Northwest Outboard Trailer Sailors, Eugene,OR

                          Comment


                            #14
                            2850Bounty wrote:
                            Is that in frustration because you had just burned your hand? :kidding
                            One way to check the temp. of the hub, also "kick the tires" figure of speech to check the tires for wear and pressure.
                            Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                            Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                            Twin 350 GM power
                            Located in Seward, AK
                            Retired marine surveyor

                            Comment


                              #15
                              In my experience the defining factor on bearing longevity is the inner bearing seal surface condition.

                              If this surface is potmarked from corrosion, the best bearing system will fall flat on it's face. If this suface is in good condition, the bearings usually last 2+ years, which is all a guy can expect in the salt.

                              If yours are poor, I heard you can get a thin metallic cover which renews the surface...can't remeber the name....sorry.

                              Anyway, a bit of sandpaper will do the trick if they are lightly scored.

                              I've gone so far as to replace the axle to get good surfaces here because I couldn't keep the bearings in the trailer for 1/2 a year and for a long time couldn't figure out why after doing all the right things, bearing buddies etc....

                              Chay

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