Sick to my stomach...-gctid401824

[Guest]

Some of you may know my story, but to make it quick I have successfully upgraded my broken 305 engine to a remanufactured 350 engine. I fired it up for the first time this past Wednesday and was elated! Finished getting the boat ready for it's lake trial this weekend and discovered this:

I already know the answer but is there anyway to repair this w/o having to pull the motor???

:sorrow:

[2850Bounty]

Kelly, if this oil leak is from the timing chain cover, or from the oil pan, gently tighten these bolts some.

These are 1/4" and 5/16", so the torque value is low.... be gentle.

Now, if this oil is coming from the upper "Old Chevy" front engine mount bolt bosses, you'll need to install a bolt/washer as shown in this photo.

(note the four front bolt bores, and that the upper-most Stdb bore is closed off)

This bolt hole is open to the fuel pump push rod bore, and if not closed off, oil will leak.

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/705549=29873-SBC block view fuel pump rod.png[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/705549=29874-SBC front bolt bore oil leak.jpg[/img]

[dktool]

Sure looks like it's leaking from the timing cover and or timing cover / oil pan junction.

I have had success stopping those kind of non-pressure oils by cleaning the area in question with brake spray (multiple applications) and applying high quality engine type silicone to the crack.

Be sure to force it into the area, don't just wipe it one.

It's best to let the engine sit at least a day before doing it so that any residual oil has time to drain down and not still wanting to come out of the crack when you're trying to clean / seal it.

Also, let it cure a day after applying.

DISCLAIMER: THIS IS A BAND-AID REPAIR (sometimes works, sometimes don't)

Question: Did you purchase this engine with the tin on it or did you install it ?

(I am aware who built this engine)

[Nikko]

Stupid question, but are you sure that's oil? the way the drops fell, and the colour of the drops, and the way there's surface tension on the puddle in the bilge makes me think it's water leaking (with oil mixed in perhaps)?

If it is oil - it's possible it's coming out of the pan gasket there, but unlikely as there's no pressure behind it there. It could be weeping out the timing chain cover and running down. If this is the case, it's a, easy fix (pain in the butt, but easy). And it could also be coming down form where the intake manifold meets the valley web at the front of the block - a common leak location for small blocks.

But as I said before - it looks like a water leak. If so, could be a water pump gasket - or perhaps a faulty pump itself. could be a t-stat housing, a loose hoseclamp, a loose pencil zinc on the heat exchanger etc....all of which are fixable...

[Guest]

Thank guys for the responses...

It's definitely oil, not water.

The tinware was installed by MM, not me.

Rick... I did snug up some of the timing chain cover bolts... but not all of them due to stuff being in the way.

I also just applied some black rtv. I really don't like that approach... but if it means I can get on the water for a few times this summer and fall, then I'll repair it the right way after the season is finished.

Crossing fingers for band-aid repair!

[dktool]

Was the intake manifold also installed by MM or you ?

[Guest]

dktool wrote:
Was the intake manifold also installed by MM or you ?

I installed the intake manifold.

[dktool]

Did you determine that the leak is in fact coming from the timing cover and not running down from the lifter valley / manifold ?

[Guest]

dktool wrote:
Did you determine that the leak is in fact coming from the timing cover and not running down from the lifter valley / manifold ?

No... I'll have to check next time I start it up.

When it rains it pours... my alternator died this morning... so.... I'm taking a break from the boat until it gets here. :worth

Thanks for the idea to check the valley... I did use plenty of black rtv at those points though...

:-)

[Guest]

I believe Rick is right, put a 3/8" bolt and washer with some thread sealant in the top hole it goes through to the fuel pump push rod. It does that so you can screw a longer bolt in to hold the push rod up while changing the fuel pump. Just make sure its not too long and contacts the push rod while running.

[Guest]

MT Jeff wrote:
I believe Rick is right, put a 3/8" bolt and washer with some thread sealant in the top hole it goes through to the fuel pump push rod. It does that so you can screw a longer bolt in to hold the push rod up while changing the fuel pump. Just make sure its not too long and contacts the push rod while running.

I'll do it... thanks for the reaffirmation! :-)

[2850Bounty]

MT Jeff wrote:
I believe Rick is right, put a 3/8" bolt and washer with some thread sealant in the top hole it goes through to the fuel pump push rod. It does that so you can screw a longer bolt in to hold the push rod up while changing the fuel pump. Just make sure its not too long and contacts the push rod while running.

Jeff, good point!

Yeah, I could not tell exactly where the leak was from the video, but I've seen these bolts omitted before, and it's been the source of a leak.

OH, I almost forgot!

Kelly, as per your thread title, here's a little something to get you through this. I've found it to be helpful.

:kidding

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:
Jeff, good point!

Yeah, I could not tell exactly where the leak was from the video, but I've seen these bolts omitted before, and it's been the source of a leak.

OH, I almost forgot!

Kelly, as per your thread title, here's a little something to get you through this. I've found it to be helpful.

:kidding

Well, that hole (both actually) is empty, so maybe, just maybe I'll get lucky with an easy fix.

Thanks for the Pepto! I actually feel much better about the whole project... just praying that wherever the leak is I don't have to pull the engine again!

KC :-)

[Guest]

here's what I'm talking about...

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/705790=29889-holes.jpg[/img]Should both of those holes have bolts in them? If so, 1/2" long?Thanks again,KC

[2850Bounty]

kellynm wrote:


Should both of those holes have bolts in them? If so, 1/2" long?

Thanks again,

KC

Kelly, here.... put these on, and go back to post #2.



With an SAE washer and thread sealant, a 3/4" should do it... but double check me on the length.

Wouldn't that be great if it ended up being your leak?????