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How to change the impeller on a bravo-gctid401816

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    How to change the impeller on a bravo-gctid401816

    1. Decide whether the effort required is worth it, I did, since it has not been changed for 14 months. (Usually do it every spring)_

    2. Gather up the required parts. 1 impeller, Sierra 18-3087. The WM nearest my home was out so trip across town. While there, spend another hundred on other stuff.

    3. gather the proper tools: 1/2, 5/16 and 5/8 wrenches; 1/2" socket and handle; rags; first aid kit for the inevitable cuts; manual showing proper serpentine belt run.

    4. Begin. Loosen belt tension adjustment 5/8 wrench to loosen locknut. Remove belt place side.

    5. Loosenhose clamps onthe two hoses on rear of pump. make mental mote toremember the softer one goes to the top port.

    6. Attempt to remove hoses while pump is mounted. No go. Attempt to pry hoses loose. No go.

    Swear and throw tools. Bandage hand where sharp edge cut it. make mental note to purchase cut-proof gloves.

    7. Remove 3 nuts and lockwashers from pump to bracket bolts. Pump is loose. gently and carefully snake the pump out, being careful to not entangle wiring for bilge pump system. OK. re-bandage hand where the bandage caught an apendage on the engine.

    8. Squirt WD40 on hose ends to aid in removal. Grabbed pump and yanked it hard, painting the engine room with explitives. pump is loose from hoses.

    Now, for those who never worked on a Bravo pump. there are 5 bolts thru the body. 3 a=re longer, because they are alos thru the bracket with a nut and lock washer to mount it. So, the previous service which I did not get them in order, I used a sharpie and labeled the bolts as to their positions: EG: 2 oclock, 5 oclock, etc.

    Otherwide you will spend an hour trying different permutations.

    9. being careful to noit (and write down) the direction of rotation, remove impeller.

    10. Using some liquid soap, lubricate the inside of the housing. Does two things: makes insertion easier, and lubes the rubber while the water from outside is getting there upon initaial start.

    NOTE: and this is a biggie: inspect the other end, inside, of the pump body. If it has gouges where the plastic has deterioated because of sand, discard teh plastic pump bodt and buy the kit, which has a new body, backing plate, impeller, and instructions. Its not THAT expensive.

    11. Insert the impeller, being careful to twist it in the proper direction, as noted in in #9. However, I have been told that if you get it backwards the "fingers" will correct themselves when you start it.

    12. Carefully aligning the pump body to the housing replace and tighten the bolts in the sequence noted in #8.

    13. Test by hand turning it. it should have a drag to it, but not binding.

    14. Re-mount pump on the bracket. If you have accomplished #12 correctly, it only goes in one way.

    15. Place the lockwashers and nuts on the bolts and tighten. Visually, see if the pulley lines up with the rest of the pulleys. If not, shim the mounting bolts with thin 5/16 flatwashers. This is easier then replcing the bracket. (Mine too one washer at 12 oclock.)

    16. Slide hoses over ports, being careful not to loose the clamps on the hoses under the engine.

    17. Retreive clamps from under engine and repeat #16 until done.

    18. Tighten clamps. Redress bandage caught on clamp end.

    19. SInce you forgot to draw a diagram of the belt run, open manual and look it up.

    20. Re-install bely, using a 5/16" wrench as the adjuster and the 5/8 as the lock nut wrench. Proper adjustment is" 1/2" deflection by pressing on the belt across the top of the engine.

    21. Test run on flusher.

    Note: do not attenpt this in-water, as the pump, and hoses are uder the water level outside, and that 1 1/2" hose caan put a lot of water into the boat. I don't care how fast you think you are.

    Now that all was done, I went to the boat galley to wash my hands. The flow of water suddenly stopped. Freshwater pump failed.

    Go inside, had a discussion with The Captain (morgan) and put the repair off until tomorrow.

    Next day, remove the pump, disassembled the pressure sensor, (digital voltmeter said it was bad., and found it stuck. I freed it, lubricated it with silicon oil, and reasemble. Worked OK, however, require 3 bandage changes.

    Those of you younger, smaller, and/or more agile, may need less or no bandages.

    The (bandage) editorial was intended as humor, however, the actual steps are true.
    Captharv 2001 2452
    "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

    #2
    Also label which hose goes where. Ask me how I learned this one. Both engines.

    I have a belt diagram laminated in a sleeve with a labelled pump diagram on the other side, now.

    This is for a 2004 Merc 5.7L V8 with Bravo 2 drive.


    Jim McNeely
    New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
    Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
    Brighton, Michigan USA
    MMSI # 367393410

    Comment


      #3
      Good thread, Harv. I know that these belt driven sea water pumps can be a real bugger to get to.

      It's no wonder people defer impeller replacement.

      FYI and FWIW, there is an alternative to this by doing what our Doug C. did, and your future impeller changes will take you about fifteen minutes.

      These crankshaft mounted pumps are used for GM and Ford engines for Volvo Penta, Marine Power, PCM, Indmar and possibly some Crusaders, and now Doug C's Merc 6.2L Horizon engine.

      It may perhaps be a hassle for some, but you do this install one time only.

      .
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        This is another description of this repair - perhaps the best one I have seen thus far.

        http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/view...st=0&sk=t&sd=a

        Despite this excellent advice, and two failed attempts, I found another, even better solution....my mechanic charges me 1:45hrs to do this repair. Easily justifies the $150 IMO.
        Mike & Dixi
        2006 265 5.0 MPI B3
        Closed Cooling

        Comment


          #5
          Patrevan wrote:
          1.... This is another description of this repair - perhaps the best one I have seen thus far.

          http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/view...st=0&sk=t&sd=a

          2.... Despite this excellent advice, and two failed attempts, I found another, even better solution.... my mechanic charges me 1:45hrs to do this repair. Easily justifies the $150 IMO.
          1.... I just read through the thread. It's quite a bit of work to remove one of these pumps.... Merc and/or later Volvo Penta alike.

          I equally dislike the Volvo Penta belt driven sea water pumps. As a matter of fact, I don't care much for any of the belt driven sea water pumps.

          People tend to defer impeller maintenance just simply because of the difficultly in removing these pumps. :thumb

          I couldn't help but wonder why we are we seeing two different rotational directions for the installed impeller!

          The guys say [COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
          coat the inside of the raw water pump housing and the vanes on the new impeller with your "Lube of Choice"![/COLOR]

          Just make sure that petroleum products are NOT used.

          2.... If we install a crankshaft pump, we won't need to hire this work done! Our ten year old sons can change it for us.

          For me, it would be a no brainer, and again.... not just for the Merc..... Volvo Penta also.

          However, it does require that one-time-installation ordeal.

          This.........



          becomes this..........


          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            2850Bounty wrote:
            [

            The guys say [COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
            coat the inside of the raw water pump housing and the vanes on the new impeller with your "Lube of Choice"![/COLOR]

            Just make sure that petroleum products are NOT used.
            That's what I caught as well... good way to break down the impeller and cause problems down the line.

            No lube is really needed, the impeller and housings are designed to dry start... trailer boats do it every time If you're worried, just throw some water and perhaps a tiny amount of boat/car soap in the housing.

            Comment


              #7
              ishiboo wrote:
              • 1 wrote:
              • That's what I caught as well... good way to break down the impeller and cause problems down the line.
              • No lube is really needed, the impeller and housings are designed to dry start...
              • trailer boats do it every time



              • 1 wrote:
              • With the wrong chemistry, yes!
              • I have to disagree here.
              • Yes, I do see people doing this often.

                I also see some of these people being towed in shortly after launch!



              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                2850Bounty wrote:
                Yes, I do see people doing this often.

                I also see some of these people being towed in shortly after launch!
                I didn't mean starting the boat out of the water... even with proper procedures. When you put the boat in the water, you start the engine and the impeller can be dry until it primes. Prime is lost between outings. There's a ton of self-priming impeller-driven pumps with the same composition impellers outside the marine market as well.

                Comment


                  #9
                  2850Bounty wrote:
                  1.... I just read through the thread. It's quite a bit of work to remove one of these pumps.... Merc and/or later Volvo Penta alike.

                  I equally dislike the Volvo Penta belt driven sea water pumps. As a matter of fact, I don't care much for any of the belt driven sea water pumps.

                  People tend to defer impeller maintenance just simply because of the difficultly in removing these pumps. :thumb

                  I couldn't help but wonder why we are we seeing two different rotational directions for the installed impeller!

                  The guys say [COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
                  coat the inside of the raw water pump housing and the vanes on the new impeller with your "Lube of Choice"![/COLOR]

                  Just make sure that petroleum products are NOT used.

                  2.... If we install a crankshaft pump, we won't need to hire this work done! Our ten year old sons can change it for us.

                  For me, it would be a no brainer, and again.... not just for the Merc..... Volvo Penta also.

                  However, it does require that one-time-installation ordeal.

                  This.........



                  becomes this..........

                  Where is the write up for this? Very interested.

                  Gary.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    garball wrote:
                    Where is the write up for this? Very interested.

                    Gary.
                    Bounty linked to it http://"http://www.baylinerownersclu...e: <br /> here.

                    I'm interested too, it's clearly a pain in the ***... on my old AQ-series, it had a pump with a brass wear plate on the front just like his new setup... seems like we took a step backwards!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It's all about propriety parts. Volvo did the same thing after the AQ series engines/drives. They began using a belt driven pump, and also their own version of a crankshaft pump.

                      You can buy the Johnson F5B-9 for around $150, and not too much more for the F6B-9.

                      A man brought the new style V/P crankshaft pump to this morning with a bearing issue. Volvo does not offer a bearing for this. They want to sell you an entire pump housing....... $500+ list price.

                      This bearing and seal are industry standard 6006xx (sealed bearing) and a 16x28x7 seal.

                      I'll have it repaired soon as I have the parts.



                      I suggested to him that he rework the pulley to accommodate the Johnson pump...... he liked the idea.

                      Here's one of V/P's belt driven pumps.


                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment

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