1. Decide whether the effort required is worth it, I did, since it has not been changed for 14 months. (Usually do it every spring)_
2. Gather up the required parts. 1 impeller, Sierra 18-3087. The WM nearest my home was out so trip across town. While there, spend another hundred on other stuff.
3. gather the proper tools: 1/2, 5/16 and 5/8 wrenches; 1/2" socket and handle; rags; first aid kit for the inevitable cuts; manual showing proper serpentine belt run.
4. Begin. Loosen belt tension adjustment 5/8 wrench to loosen locknut. Remove belt place side.
5. Loosenhose clamps onthe two hoses on rear of pump. make mental mote toremember the softer one goes to the top port.
6. Attempt to remove hoses while pump is mounted. No go. Attempt to pry hoses loose. No go.
Swear and throw tools. Bandage hand where sharp edge cut it. make mental note to purchase cut-proof gloves.
7. Remove 3 nuts and lockwashers from pump to bracket bolts. Pump is loose. gently and carefully snake the pump out, being careful to not entangle wiring for bilge pump system. OK. re-bandage hand where the bandage caught an apendage on the engine.
8. Squirt WD40 on hose ends to aid in removal. Grabbed pump and yanked it hard, painting the engine room with explitives. pump is loose from hoses.
Now, for those who never worked on a Bravo pump. there are 5 bolts thru the body. 3 a=re longer, because they are alos thru the bracket with a nut and lock washer to mount it. So, the previous service which I did not get them in order, I used a sharpie and labeled the bolts as to their positions: EG: 2 oclock, 5 oclock, etc.
Otherwide you will spend an hour trying different permutations.
9. being careful to noit (and write down) the direction of rotation, remove impeller.
10. Using some liquid soap, lubricate the inside of the housing. Does two things: makes insertion easier, and lubes the rubber while the water from outside is getting there upon initaial start.
NOTE: and this is a biggie: inspect the other end, inside, of the pump body. If it has gouges where the plastic has deterioated because of sand, discard teh plastic pump bodt and buy the kit, which has a new body, backing plate, impeller, and instructions. Its not THAT expensive.
11. Insert the impeller, being careful to twist it in the proper direction, as noted in in #9. However, I have been told that if you get it backwards the "fingers" will correct themselves when you start it.
12. Carefully aligning the pump body to the housing replace and tighten the bolts in the sequence noted in #8.
13. Test by hand turning it. it should have a drag to it, but not binding.
14. Re-mount pump on the bracket. If you have accomplished #12 correctly, it only goes in one way.
15. Place the lockwashers and nuts on the bolts and tighten. Visually, see if the pulley lines up with the rest of the pulleys. If not, shim the mounting bolts with thin 5/16 flatwashers. This is easier then replcing the bracket. (Mine too one washer at 12 oclock.)
16. Slide hoses over ports, being careful not to loose the clamps on the hoses under the engine.
17. Retreive clamps from under engine and repeat #16 until done.
18. Tighten clamps. Redress bandage caught on clamp end.
19. SInce you forgot to draw a diagram of the belt run, open manual and look it up.
20. Re-install bely, using a 5/16" wrench as the adjuster and the 5/8 as the lock nut wrench. Proper adjustment is" 1/2" deflection by pressing on the belt across the top of the engine.
21. Test run on flusher.
Note: do not attenpt this in-water, as the pump, and hoses are uder the water level outside, and that 1 1/2" hose caan put a lot of water into the boat. I don't care how fast you think you are.
Now that all was done, I went to the boat galley to wash my hands. The flow of water suddenly stopped. Freshwater pump failed.
Go inside, had a discussion with The Captain (morgan) and put the repair off until tomorrow.
Next day, remove the pump, disassembled the pressure sensor, (digital voltmeter said it was bad., and found it stuck. I freed it, lubricated it with silicon oil, and reasemble. Worked OK, however, require 3 bandage changes.
Those of you younger, smaller, and/or more agile, may need less or no bandages.
The (bandage) editorial was intended as humor, however, the actual steps are true.
2. Gather up the required parts. 1 impeller, Sierra 18-3087. The WM nearest my home was out so trip across town. While there, spend another hundred on other stuff.
3. gather the proper tools: 1/2, 5/16 and 5/8 wrenches; 1/2" socket and handle; rags; first aid kit for the inevitable cuts; manual showing proper serpentine belt run.
4. Begin. Loosen belt tension adjustment 5/8 wrench to loosen locknut. Remove belt place side.
5. Loosenhose clamps onthe two hoses on rear of pump. make mental mote toremember the softer one goes to the top port.
6. Attempt to remove hoses while pump is mounted. No go. Attempt to pry hoses loose. No go.
Swear and throw tools. Bandage hand where sharp edge cut it. make mental note to purchase cut-proof gloves.
7. Remove 3 nuts and lockwashers from pump to bracket bolts. Pump is loose. gently and carefully snake the pump out, being careful to not entangle wiring for bilge pump system. OK. re-bandage hand where the bandage caught an apendage on the engine.
8. Squirt WD40 on hose ends to aid in removal. Grabbed pump and yanked it hard, painting the engine room with explitives. pump is loose from hoses.
Now, for those who never worked on a Bravo pump. there are 5 bolts thru the body. 3 a=re longer, because they are alos thru the bracket with a nut and lock washer to mount it. So, the previous service which I did not get them in order, I used a sharpie and labeled the bolts as to their positions: EG: 2 oclock, 5 oclock, etc.
Otherwide you will spend an hour trying different permutations.
9. being careful to noit (and write down) the direction of rotation, remove impeller.
10. Using some liquid soap, lubricate the inside of the housing. Does two things: makes insertion easier, and lubes the rubber while the water from outside is getting there upon initaial start.
NOTE: and this is a biggie: inspect the other end, inside, of the pump body. If it has gouges where the plastic has deterioated because of sand, discard teh plastic pump bodt and buy the kit, which has a new body, backing plate, impeller, and instructions. Its not THAT expensive.
11. Insert the impeller, being careful to twist it in the proper direction, as noted in in #9. However, I have been told that if you get it backwards the "fingers" will correct themselves when you start it.
12. Carefully aligning the pump body to the housing replace and tighten the bolts in the sequence noted in #8.
13. Test by hand turning it. it should have a drag to it, but not binding.
14. Re-mount pump on the bracket. If you have accomplished #12 correctly, it only goes in one way.
15. Place the lockwashers and nuts on the bolts and tighten. Visually, see if the pulley lines up with the rest of the pulleys. If not, shim the mounting bolts with thin 5/16 flatwashers. This is easier then replcing the bracket. (Mine too one washer at 12 oclock.)
16. Slide hoses over ports, being careful not to loose the clamps on the hoses under the engine.
17. Retreive clamps from under engine and repeat #16 until done.
18. Tighten clamps. Redress bandage caught on clamp end.
19. SInce you forgot to draw a diagram of the belt run, open manual and look it up.
20. Re-install bely, using a 5/16" wrench as the adjuster and the 5/8 as the lock nut wrench. Proper adjustment is" 1/2" deflection by pressing on the belt across the top of the engine.
21. Test run on flusher.
Note: do not attenpt this in-water, as the pump, and hoses are uder the water level outside, and that 1 1/2" hose caan put a lot of water into the boat. I don't care how fast you think you are.
Now that all was done, I went to the boat galley to wash my hands. The flow of water suddenly stopped. Freshwater pump failed.
Go inside, had a discussion with The Captain (morgan) and put the repair off until tomorrow.
Next day, remove the pump, disassembled the pressure sensor, (digital voltmeter said it was bad., and found it stuck. I freed it, lubricated it with silicon oil, and reasemble. Worked OK, however, require 3 bandage changes.
Those of you younger, smaller, and/or more agile, may need less or no bandages.
The (bandage) editorial was intended as humor, however, the actual steps are true.
If you're worried, just throw some water and perhaps a tiny amount of boat/car soap in the housing.
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