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Need new way to change oil in AQ120B-gctid348234

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    #1

    Need new way to change oil in AQ120B-gctid348234

    I have always changed my oil in my Volvo AQ120B by laying on the starboard side of the engine, reaching under the engine, removing the drain plug, letting it drain in pan, using a drill pump with a hose and pumping it out of the pan into another container.

    Now that I'm going to upgrade from a 9 gallon to a 25 gallon holding tank, I don't believe I will have to room to lay on the side of the engine and change the oil the way I have done it before.

    So I guess I can use one of them vacuum devices that the tube goes into the dip stick tube and sucks the oil out. Or one of them pumps that goes into the dip stick tube and pumps the oil out.

    I have heard that some people have a thing where they remove the plug in the back of there boat (when it is out of the water..., pull a cord, chain or whatever that brings out a hose with a cap on it. They remove the cap and drain there oil that way.

    I guess if the boat is out of the water this may be a good way to change the oil. Do they have these for the Volvo AQ120B if so Where can I get one? Or should I just use one of them vacuum things to change my oil?

    What are your thoughts on this?

    1980 Bayliner Explorer with a Volvo AQ120B engine.

    Thank you.

    Bruce.
    Tags: None
    #2
    This is what I did; http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ormation/page2. You will need access to a 1/8" NPT tap but they are not hard to find. I used some grease gun extensions but am planning on getting a hose made with brass fittings so I do not have to worry about corrosion on the hose fittings.

    Good luck and let us know what you came up with.

    Comment

      #3
      Bruce, the p/o of my boat installed a brass ball valve into the drain plug hole, then about 4' of hydraulic hose that just fits thru the garboard plug hole with another fitting in the end with a plug. You thread it thru, remove the plug, and turn the ball valve to open and let the oil flow. Where he got it I don't know, it looks like some kind of kit.

      Comment

        #4
        If you want No Mess/No Fuss, install a remote drain hose kit directly into the oil pan drain port.



        Or make up your own, and use the largest ID hose within reason... makes drawing the oil out faster.

        No valve is required.... just cap off the hose when done, and lay it in the bilge.

        There's no more risk of loosing the cap/plug then there is of loosing an oil pan drain plug.

        Then pick up one of these.



        No more poking a hose out the garboard fitting........, no more mess...., no more fuss!

        Warm the engine up first to reduce oil viscosity.

        .
        Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

        Comment

          #5
          Thanks Rick. Is there a number or thread size to the end of that hose so I can find it on the Internet? I really like that idea. Looks a lot easier then the way I have been changing my oil.

          Thank you.

          Bruce.

          Comment

            #6
            2850Bounty wrote:
            If you want No Mess/No Fuss, install a remote drain hose kit directly into the oil pan drain port.



            Or make up your own, and use the largest ID hose within reason... makes drawing the oil out faster.

            No valve is required.... just cap off the hose when done, and lay it in the bilge.

            There's no more risk of loosing the cap/plug then there is of loosing an oil pan drain plug.

            .
            That is what I have, it looks like the p/o just put a ball valve in between the oil pan fitting and the hose though.

            I'm not sure if the VP 4-cyls are a metric or standard thread. If it's a marine specific assembly you should be able to specify your engine and just order it up. If you're moored during the season the oil boy would be a better idea. I'm trailered year round so draining out thru the garboard plug is not big deal.

            Comment

              #7
              Replacing the drain plug w/ a banjo bolt and a hose is a nice addition while access is available.

              On mine I plumbed up both engines, both transmissions and the gen w/ 5/8" ID hose to a manifold and high volume pump. I drain my 8 quarts in ten seconds, for a rapid oil / filter change.


              Comment

                #8
                wingless wrote:
                Replacing the drain plug w/ a banjo bolt and a hose is a nice addition while access is available.

                On mine I plumbed up both engines, both transmissions and the gen w/ 5/8" ID hose to a manifold and high volume pump. I drain my 8 quarts in ten seconds, for a rapid oil / filter change.

                Here are some images of the banjo bolt / hose barb for sucking 8 quarts of oil in ten seconds from the bottom of the drain pain.




                Comment

                  #9
                  ^^^

                  Scary. Both the cork gasket and the molestation on those brass fittings with pliers or loose crescent wrench?

                  Comment

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