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gimble and hinge pin replacement

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    gimble and hinge pin replacement

    Just got the bill for the bottom painting on my 2001 2859 and they stated that the gimbal is badly wore and the hinge pin needs to be replaced. I did not notice much play in outdrive but they said there was alot. Watched a few youtube videos and I don't think i'm going to tackle this myself. I won't be able to get to the boat for a couple weeks and they did not give me an estimate my question is does anyone have an idea what this will cost, I think they charge about $100 an hour for labor. Any other things to watch for?

    thanks
    Dave

    #2
    Gimbal bearing or gimbal ring?
    hinge pin bushing or the pins themselves?

    Did they mention swivel shaft?
    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

    Mike

    Comment


      #3
      This is not an uncommon problem. I'm faced with the same repair. You probably already saw this method for just the pin replacement:
      http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm

      I too will have my mechanic fix this. His preference is to replace the transom assembly. This would require engine removal. He says labor costs would be a wash either way, but obviously the new assembly would add to the parts cost.

      After 15 years of ownership, I'm hoping for 15 more, so I'm torn as to which method would be best long term. Would assembly removal allow for inspection and any necessary transom repairs that may be discovered?

      Btw, I see this rusting swivel pin problem as a design issue. My friends who have boats where the upper part of Bravo III assembly sits out of the water aren't having this problem.
      Simo
      2002 2855 350MPI Bravo III on Lake Champlain

      Comment


      • builderdude
        builderdude commented
        Editing a comment
        Removal of the entire assembly will provide needed access for transom repair if necessary.
        It’s just a mater of time for the fellas that aren’t experiencing leakage at the upper square shaft seal, they’ll all start leaking at some point.
        BTW there are a couple of mods one can do to help prevent the breakdown of the seal.

      • Nauti_Mike
        Nauti_Mike commented
        Editing a comment
        The jrmarine fix is for the swivel shaft not the hinge pins. There are two hinge pins one behind each sensor that allow the drive to tilt up and down.

      #4
      As Mike has eluded to: a hinge pin is a separate issue than the square shaft (upper steering shaft).
      Find out what part they were suggesting needs repair. Sometimes the threads become stripped in the bell housing and the hinge pin can’t be secured well or the bushing has worn out.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #5
        most likely your gimbal ring is worn out badly...
        in order to remove that piece, both upper & lower steering pins will need to removed.
        doing it the easy way by cheating should take a few hours, proper repair by pulling the engine should be around 20 hours possibly more, but all depends what's under there.

        Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
        Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
        93 3058 sold
        92 2855 (day boat)
        91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
        Longbranch WA
        Life is Good

        Comment


          #6
          I am of the opinion the 2001 boat you have now needs a freshening up.

          This could mean pulling the engine, bay gone thru, inside of transom probed for soft spots, bilge pump( s ) replaced, hoses updated, pan inspected, a good paint job on the engine etc.

          The drive of course removed ... everything hanging off the back.

          Done right your good for another 18 - 20 years.

          Time wise with all the parts on hand, no surprises, ( ask Dave aka builder ) about surprises,

          3 day's, i have many fully stocked stores by me so adding a few hours for the elbows, mani's or whatever, even pans is not unreasonable.

          For myself i save at least 1/3 waiting for parts, no hurry.

          Good time with the engine out to pressure test your fuel tank .
          Last edited by Chief_Alen; 12-21-2017, 12:59 PM. Reason: lousy spelling
          Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

          1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

          '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

          Manalapan N.J

          Comment


            #7
            Thanks for the replys guys, i went up to the boat today and i definetley have some problems i bet i can move the outdrive 6" in each direction. I cannot believe I did not catch this when i bought the boat in May or that the surveyor missed it. Was not able to talk to mechanic about the fix but i will replace what needs to be replaced and all other wear parts. May be a few weeks til I know more but i will post with final outcome. Looks like no autopilot for me this year.

            Comment


              #8
              Well I got the estimate, the repair would be for the gimbal ring and hinge pin. parts are $1800 with another 1100 for labor. Sounds like this the mercruiser kit, not sure I like this idea. Will check a few other places but with the boat in their storage I may be limited to what I can do.

              Comment


                #9
                Time for a new stainless square shaft and seal then. Mine was the same and now its as tight as the day it came out of the factory. Judging by the look of the leg it would be worth it while its apart to go thru everything in the transom assembly. Save time and money in the long run. Jmo.
                Doug
                1995 2859 -extensively rebuilt/restored 2016/17
                496 big block - Bravo ll leg
                The Doghouse
                Prince George BC

                Comment


                  #10
                  Yep, if the gimbal ring needs to be replaced the square shaft and water seal should be done also.
                  Might be able to find a decent gimbal ring on eBay........
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #11
                    Go to Completed Projets called Steering Seal Replacement on my 1993 2859 (Nov 2017)as I just went through this and replaced the transom plate. Take care to have the transom inspect3d for cracks, softness if you are going all in.
                    sigpicDave Stancil
                    Bayliner #1 in slip
                    1993 2859 Classic
                    10 ' dingy w/4HP 2012 DS4 Suzuki
                    Bayliner #2 in garage
                    2000 19.5 Capri Classic on trailer

                    Comment


                      #12
                      As far as a cost estimate, the new transom plate assembly is about $3500, not including labor, or labor of removal of the engine. I also recommend that you perform an outdrive service, since the outdrive has to be removed. The transom plate includes a new bellows assembly. In my case, the transom has to be reglassed. In southern CA prices, you would pay about $6K for all of this.
                      sigpicDave Stancil
                      Bayliner #1 in slip
                      1993 2859 Classic
                      10 ' dingy w/4HP 2012 DS4 Suzuki
                      Bayliner #2 in garage
                      2000 19.5 Capri Classic on trailer

                      Comment


                        #13
                        New SS upper SQ shaft is a must at this point.
                        see if the transom rebuild kit is included.
                        I've done it in all three available methods... using the Merc's kit is the hardest.
                        Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                        Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                        93 3058 sold
                        92 2855 (day boat)
                        91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                        Longbranch WA
                        Life is Good

                        Comment


                          #14
                          If the motor is out and the leg is off i would pull the transom assembly and go through everything. Avoid the jrmarine method of cutting a window in gimbal housing to access the square shaft nut. Also give you piece of mind the transom to gimbal seal is not leaking like mine was.

                          i guess money and time would be the deciding factor of where to stop. Once you start taking things apart on these older boats its like you just never stop finding things that need repair/replace!!lol
                          Doug
                          1995 2859 -extensively rebuilt/restored 2016/17
                          496 big block - Bravo ll leg
                          The Doghouse
                          Prince George BC

                          Comment


                            #15
                            Originally posted by sketch96 View Post
                            If the motor is out and the leg is off i would pull the transom assembly and go through everything. Avoid the jrmarine method of cutting a window in gimbal housing to access the square shaft nut. Also give you piece of mind the transom to gimbal seal is not leaking like mine was.

                            i guess money and time would be the deciding factor of where to stop. Once you start taking things apart on these older boats its like you just never stop finding things that need repair/replace!!lol
                            The JR method of access can be avoided if the housing needs to come off but its a great way to gain access to the hardware needed to do the square shaft replacement.
                            I also agree that once your into the repairs you'll likely find many more things that you'll want to address.
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment

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