First problem on my 2009 175BR-gctid401362

[Guest]

Guys/Gals,

Thought I would check the Internet before I shelled out some money to get my problem fixed, so bear with me while I try to explain it!

Yesterday we were underway in a salt-water river here in Florida, going about 4300 RPM. The alarm started going off, so I checked my gauges and noticed that the temprature gauge was at the high temprature (all the way to the right). I immediatley shut down engine, brought the trim up, and checked the sterndrive for anything blocking the intakes (there was nothing). I opened the cowling and there was no smoke, and it didn't seem as if there was any "extra" heat coming off of the engine (it might have been a little warmer than usual).

After about 15 minutes with the cowling open and blower running the gague was reading in normal (175 degrees Farienheit), so I turned it around and headed toward the boat ramp (about 5 miles away). I kept it at clutch ahead for about five minutes and the temprature was normal. I brought it up to 3000 RPMs with the trim slightly up and had the temprature gague come up a little (not enough to shut it down). I put the trim back down and came up to 4000 RPM and the gague began to rise steadily, so I came back down to 3000 RPM until I got to the ramp.

My limited engine knowledge has brought me to three possible problems:

A.) Impeller problem/sticking?

B.) Stuck thermostat/Broken thermostat?

C.) Water pump going out?

What do you guys think? I really don't want to shell out $95 an hour if it's a simple fix.

Thanks!

[Chesapeake]

jnhuscg wrote:
Guys/Gals,

Thought I would check the Internet before I shelled out some money to get my problem fixed, so bear with me while I try to explain it!

Yesterday we were underway in a salt-water river here in Florida, going about 4300 RPM. The alarm started going off, so I checked my gauges and noticed that the temprature gauge was at the high temprature (all the way to the right). I immediatley shut down engine, brought the trim up, and checked the sterndrive for anything blocking the intakes (there was nothing). I opened the cowling and there was no smoke, and it didn't seem as if there was any "extra" heat coming off of the engine (it might have been a little warmer than usual).

After about 15 minutes with the cowling open and blower running the gague was reading in normal (175 degrees Farienheit), so I turned it around and headed toward the boat ramp (about 5 miles away). I kept it at clutch ahead for about five minutes and the temprature was normal. I brought it up to 3000 RPMs with the trim slightly up and had the temprature gague come up a little (not enough to shut it down). I put the trim back down and came up to 4000 RPM and the gague began to rise steadily, so I came back down to 3000 RPM until I got to the ramp.

My limited engine knowledge has brought me to three possible problems:

A.) Impeller problem/sticking?

B.) Stuck thermostat/Broken thermostat?

C.) Water pump going out?

What do you guys think? I really don't want to shell out $95 an hour if it's a simple fix.

Thanks!

Not knowing any the service history of your boat, a good first guess would be to inspect/replace the impeller. The boat being about 3 years old and running in salt water, this would be a good place to start. As far as the thermostat sticking possibly but probably not.

Others with more knowledge I am sure will reply.

Good luck.

[Guest]

Its time for an impeller change anyway (or maybe over due).

[Guest]

D.) Exhaust riser(s) plugged with rust.

[Guest]

orca wrote:
D.) Exhaust riser(s) plugged with rust.

Pretty sure it's not the exhaust. I ran fresh water through it when I got home and everything ran great. I'm 90% sure (and hoping) it's the impeller because it's the easiest fix.

[Guest]

jnhuscg wrote:
Pretty sure it's not the exhaust. I ran fresh water through it when I got home and everything ran great. I'm 90% sure (and hoping) it's the impeller because it's the easiest fix.

If you are running in salt, you need to flush after every run with Salt-Away. I run salt here in Georgia and use it all the time. I just changed out my impeller and it was spotless. I also did my alignment and the water passages were like new. The stuff works very well

[Guest]

Chip73 wrote:
If you are running in salt, you need to flush after every run with Salt-Away. I run salt here in Georgia and use it all the time. I just changed out my impeller and it was spotless. I also did my alignment and the water passages were like new. The stuff works very well

Never even heard of that stuff...good to know, thanks! is the exhaust not coated with anti-rust on the inside?

[Guest]

jnhuscg wrote:
Pretty sure it's not the exhaust. I ran fresh water through it when I got home and everything ran great. I'm 90% sure (and hoping) it's the impeller because it's the easiest fix.

Wouldn't be so quick to discount this. Your symptoms exactly match a partially plugged exhaust. It can and will work fine on the trailer and at lower rpm. But when put under heavy load at higher rpms, it just will not let enough water pass to cool the engine. After you replace the impeller and check the thermostat you will want to check your exhaust. Exhaust is generally not coated with anything.

[Guest]

orca wrote:
Wouldn't be so quick to discount this. Your symptoms exactly match a partially plugged exhaust. It can and will work fine on the trailer and at lower rpm. But when put under heavy load at higher rpms, it just will not let enough water pass to cool the engine. After you replace the impeller and check the thermostat you will want to check your exhaust. Exhaust is generally not coated with anything.

Today I learned something. Thanks for the info. How do you go about in cleaning out the exhaust?

[Vic_Stewart]

The water pump has a metal insert (bronze or SS) that is cast with the rubber impeller material. Overtime, the insert loses it's grip. So under high loads (high speeds) the insert will spin and the impeller won't. At low loads (low speed) the impeller is under less stress and may provide necessary cooling water.

If you have several years of useage on the pump, it's time to change. Inspection of the pump is moot. If you go to all the trouble to get to it, CHANGE it. Visual inspection may or may not show a spun insert.

As far a flushing, after each use you should flush, that includes fresh as well as salt water. A 5 or10 min flush will get rid of most of the bad stuff. Salt away? Frankly I think it's a gimmick. But that's just my opinion.

My two pennies

Vic

Ft Myers

[Guest]

jnhuscg wrote:
Never even heard of that stuff...good to know, thanks! is the exhaust not coated with anti-rust on the inside?

I got a free jug of the stuff when I bought my Jetski's many years ago. When I got my boat I continued to use it. Comes with an adaptor you put between your hose and muffs. I run it through the engine for a few minutes, I then rinse the boat down with it. I have always used it so I can not say whether it works or plain old water would do the same but I can say after several years in salt, I have zero corrosion anywhere on my boat. As for the risers, nope, no coating. They will eventually rot but proper flushing will extend their life for quite some time. The impeller replacement is quite easy. There are multitudes of how-to's on you-tube to help you along. I just did my '08 which is pretty much identical as your boat. If you have any questions let me know, I'll help you out, as will many here.

[Guest]

Vic Stewart wrote:
Salt away? Frankly I think it's a gimmick. But that's just my opinion.

My two pennies

Vic

Ft Myers

my pops and I ran his 21' Seaswirl in saltwater fishing every weekend when I was a kid for 12 straight years. After about 5 years it was time for an engine rebuild due to the wear and tear of rust. Right around that time he started using salt-away. After 7 more years of use with salt-away he sold the boat and it was rust free (as rust free as an ocean use boat can be) and ran as good as it did the day he had it rebuilt. Salt-away is a good product.