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    Automatic Bilge Pump-gctid400990

    I purchased one of those automatic bilge pump, internal float. I am going to wire it directly to the battery (3A in-line fuse) for the automatic mode, but was wondering if there is any reason why I shouldn't wire it so I can manually operate it from the helm?Here's the original wiring:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/704705=29785-pump1.jpg[/img]Here's what I'm thinking:

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/704705=29786-pump2.jpg[/img]Again... I ain't no 'lectrician... so plz tell me if I'm way off base here.BTW, I'm trying not to spend any more $$$ on parts for awhile as I have almost consumed the kitty! :-)

    #2
    Those three wires coming from the bilge pump are ground, auto, and manual. You run ground and auto to your battery, and the manual up to a switch at the dash to force it on as you want. I'm not seeing your diagram improves the situation, unless I am misreading what your bilge pump schematics are showing.

    I kind of see what you are saying, on second look. Is this an Attwood? What I did with the three wires is one to battery, one to ground, and I looped one around to simple single pole single throw switch at the dash to force it on when I wanted.

    Comment


      #3
      F is the dreaded ON / OFF / AUTO switch, you NEVER want an OFF position !

      You need to connect C & D together permanently and use E to C/D (or any + source) for your manual switch.

      Your drawing shows the manual switch connected from E (that part is right) to G (which is ground, not right)
      " WET EVER "
      1989 2459 TROPHY OFFSHORE 5.8L COBRA / SX
      mmsi 338108404
      mmsi 338124956
      "I started with nothing and still have most of it left"

      Comment


        #4
        If it was that dreaded, Bayliner wouldn't be sending brand new boats out with a single "500" GPH manual only operated bilge pump with no automatic to it at all. I say this sort of tongue in cheek, but even so.....

        dktool wrote:
        F is the dreaded ON / OFF / AUTO switch, you NEVER want an OFF position !

        You need to connect C & D together permanently and use E to C/D (or any + source) for your manual switch.

        Your drawing shows the manual switch connected from E (that part is right) to G (which is ground, not right)

        Comment


          #5
          JeffBowser wrote:
          If it was that dreaded, Bayliner wouldn't be sending brand new boats out with a single "500" GPH manual only operated bilge pump with no automatic to it at all. I say this sort of tongue in cheek, but even so.....
          that's easy to explain: it's the cheapest solution.....

          Comment


            #6


            JeffBowser wrote:
            If it was that dreaded, Bayliner wouldn't be sending brand new boats out with a single "500" GPH manual only operated bilge pump with no automatic to it at all. I say this sort of tongue in cheek, but even so.....
            Jeff, Dean is correct! The symbol "F" would appear to be an AUTO/OFF/MANUAL helm switch!

            We DO NOT want an AUTO/OFF/MANUAL helm switch for a bilge pump because this switch offers a means of disabling the AUTO mode.

            The AUTO mode needs to be Un-interruptible, and quite frankly, even if we do not moore the boat.

            The companies that make these, and the boat manufacturers that use them, should be somewhat ashamed of themselves! :thumb

            Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ou-tread-water

              Above post says it all.

              I wrote it after my partners boat sunk at his dock/
              Captharv 2001 2452
              "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

              Comment


                #8
                I dont have a problem with an off position. Check the switch before you leave the boat ,just like you check all the other things that need checking.Might as well assume the pump wont work anyhow,since it is a mechanical device and is subject to Murphys law. I do leave mine on auto, but arrange things so that if pump does fail, there is a backup plan like someone checking on the water level frequently.Ive replaced countless pumps over the years,guess what they didnt work in the on or auto position.

                Comment


                  #9
                  telstar1 wrote:
                  1.... I dont have a problem with an off position.

                  2..... Check the switch before you leave the boat , just like you check all the other things that need checking.
                  1.... Nor do I if doesn't disable the Auto Mode.

                  As you know, this style switch will disable the Auto mode when left in "OFF" position, and/or if we accidentally forget to return the switch to "Auto" mode.

                  This is strike #1 against these switches.

                  2..... such as making sure that the MBSS has been switched "OFF"?

                  When the MBSS is switched OFF, so is helm power OFF.

                  When helm power is cut, so is the supply to these AUTO/OFF/MANUAL helm switches (as we typically see these wired).

                  This becomes strike #2 against these switches.

                  In just under 4 or 5 minutes, I've pointed out two reasons why these are a bad idea.

                  I could probably sit here all day and not come up with any good reasons for having one......, other than that some of the more sophisticated AUTO/OFF/MANUAL helm switches look pretty cool!

                  How many strikes do we need?

                  .
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I just installed a 2nd pump, fully automatic. I didn't even want to put a fuse on it, but got over myself. I have already a fairly new 500 gph that is one of those that polls every couple of minutes. It's fine when out and about, but not for leaving in the water for a few days. It is on an ON/OFF switch at the helm.... PHOOEY!!! Actually thinking of just dropping some super-glue on the switch in the on position. That's why I installed the 2nd pump. A 1100gph at that.. Only a low profile Attwood float switch and a fuse between it and the battery. I feel dryer already.
                    Aquatic Muse
                    Mount Vernon, WA
                    MMSI: 367498870
                    '79 Bayliner Santiago w/ Mercruiser 470 power and drive

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It's funny I get pooh-poohed up here for wanting a self bailing deck, yet this is the most bilge pump aware boating forum I've been on.

                      Mileskb wrote:
                      I just installed a 2nd pump, fully automatic. I didn't even want to put a fuse on it, but got over myself. I have already a fairly new 500 gph that is one of those that polls every couple of minutes. It's fine when out and about, but not for leaving in the water for a few days. It is on an ON/OFF switch at the helm.... PHOOEY!!! Actually thinking of just dropping some super-glue on the switch in the on position. That's why I installed the 2nd pump. A 1100gph at that.. Only a low profile Attwood float switch and a fuse between it and the battery. I feel dryer already.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I would run 2 completely seperate pumps. A smaller & lower one with an internal float & a bigger & higher one with an external float. I would T the wire from the float to the pump & run a seperate wire to a red light on the dash that would let you know if that pump ever came on.
                        Ernie
                        1986 3270
                        Volvo 305s


                        MMSI 338130047
                        Lake Michigan

                        Comment


                          #13
                          JeffBowser wrote:
                          It's funny I get pooh-poohed up here for wanting a self bailing deck, yet this is the most bilge pump aware boating forum I've been on.
                          Self-bailing decks are great, just very difficult to do on a 18' boat as you'd need far more freeboard than they typically have. My 24' is rather tall compared even to my 20' Bayliner I had, and the deck is self-bailing... and there's only about 2-3 inches of drop between the deck and the scuppers, which are right at the waterline.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            My last boat, a 17' jetboat (with almost no freeboard) had self bailing decks, as do most all flats skiffs from 14' and up. I suppose there could be a culture difference here, too. Folks with big boats and/or folks who boat in cold and fresh water environments might not fully grasp how useful a self-bailing, non carpeted deck is. If for nothing else than to make hosing down after a day in the salt spray so much easier, aside from the obvious shedding of waves and the frequent in/out from water sports.

                            ishiboo wrote:
                            Self-bailing decks are great, just very difficult to do on a 18' boat as you'd need far more freeboard than they typically have. My 24' is rather tall compared even to my 20' Bayliner I had, and the deck is self-bailing... and there's only about 2-3 inches of drop between the deck and the scuppers, which are right at the waterline.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You'll either appreciate this, or you'll hate it.

                              This is not just my take, I'll bet you that a dozen or more BOC members will agree with this.

                              Use the little Fisher-Price or Tonka Toy 500 GPH bilge pumps if you want to. These are OK to keep minimal bilge water out!

                              If you want real protection (whether if mooring or simply for protection while on the water), install a high qualilty main bilge pump of at least 2,000 GPH capacity, and with a separate float switch. (larger boat/larger capacity yet)

                              Not only a separate float switch, but one that is mounted at a slightly higher elevation than the pumps lowest draw-down ability. This ensures that the pump impeller will not become un-submersed prior to the float switch opening the circuit and cutting power to the pump..... otherwise the pump may continue to run and deplete the battery bank.

                              The float switch's power should be fused and "un-interruptible", meaning that by turning your MBSS OFF, it does not cut power to the float switch. This power source should be from your largest battery bank! (avoid a direct battery connection.... use your MBSS term #2)

                              The OEM helm switch can parallel the pump circuit if you want it to (not the float switch power.... the pump + circuit).

                              Take it a step further, and install an alarm or buzzer that cycles when the pump cycles (you can use the OEM helm circuit for this).

                              Place a note on your boat that asks; "If you hear my bilge pump alarm cycle, please notify the marina, or call this number."

                              Now you're covered when you leave the boat moored and unattended, and you'll sleep well also.
                              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                              Comment

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