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Pertronix flame thrower distributor and coil question-gctid400771

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    Pertronix flame thrower distributor and coil question-gctid400771

    Hi all,

    I have installed a new Ignitor II distributor and a flame thrower coil (.6 ohms). I had a ballast resistor in place for my previous engine/ignition system.

    The coil instructions say to "disconnect all wires on both sides of the ballast resistor. Remove the resistor from the vehicle and splice the wires removed together at a single point."

    So... if I am reading this correctly, disconnect all the leads from the ceramic block and essentially wire nut them all together??? I've read a bit and it appears this coil wants a full 12V at the (+) side...

    I've said this before and I'll say it again... I ain't no freakin' electrician!

    #2
    NOOOOOO, not wire nut. That's for your home but not the boat....... butt splice with shrink tube

    Comment


      #3
      kjs wrote:
      NOOOOOO, not wire nut. That's for your home but not the boat....... butt splice with shrink tube
      Actually, I used "wire nut" as an illustration... but I do appreciate the reminder!

      I did some more research and it appears it really is as simple as removing the ballast resistor and connecting the wires together with a butt splice and some heat shrink tubing...

      I found out the grey wire going to to (-) side of the coil is the tach wire...

      Comment


        #4
        Also, you may want to tune the distributor to your engines desired advance curve. MM may have a spec for the advance curve for that engine.

        Comment


          #5
          orca wrote:
          Also, you may want to tune the distributor to your engines desired advance curve. MM may have a spec for the advance curve for that engine.
          Good idea Orca!

          Ok.. so I do have one more question (at least)... there is a purple wire that ran from the (+) side of the ballast resistor to the quadrajet carb, I think it is to the choke. I think this wire should still have voltage, ie, no butt connected with the other wires from the ballast.

          Right?

          Comment


            #6
            kellynm wrote:
            Good idea Orca!

            Ok.. so I do have one more question (at least)... there is a purple wire that ran from the (+) side of the ballast resistor to the quadrajet carb, I think it is to the choke. I think this wire should still have voltage, ie, no butt connected with the other wires from the ballast.

            Right?
            I read some more and I think I can hook it directly to the (+) of the new coil which should have 12V.

            Damn it.. I'm so close to firing up this beast! :-)

            Comment


              #7
              kellynm wrote:
              I read some more and I think I can hook it directly to the (+) of the new coil which should have 12V.

              Damn it.. I'm so close to firing up this beast! :-)
              Learning = cool!

              Well, I kept asking myself... how does the coil get 12V with all those connected together? Well, it doesn't if I simple connect them all... so, I figured out which wire is the 12V wire and connected it along with the carb choke wire to the (+) side of the coil. The remaining ballast wire I will terminate with some heat shrink tubing.

              So to sum up:

              (+) 12V supply and carb choke wire and red wire coming from distributor.

              (-) black wire coming from distributor and grey tach wire

              It's not hooked up yet... so if I am incorrect (and I may vary well be!), please let me know!

              Thanks again all... I love this board!!!

              Comment


                #8
                Kelly, your OEM engine harness will include the start by-pass circuit and five pin relay. With no Ballast Resistor in the loop, this can now be disconnected.

                The purple wire to the carburetor is for the Helix heating element. Think of this as an "Un-Choke" device!

                .
                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #9
                  2850Bounty wrote:
                  Kelly, your OEM engine harness will include the start by-pass circuit and five pin relay. With no Ballast Resistor in the loop, this can now be disconnected.

                  The purple wire to the carburetor is for the Helix heating element. Think of this as an "Un-Choke" device!

                  .
                  Thank you Rick for the info. As far as why did I choose Pertronix over Mallory...

                  I read your posts about how important it is to either get a new distributor or have the original one checked for alignment, gear... so I chose to buy new. I also read about the differences between VR and Hall effect triggering and I agree that VR is superior.

                  For my circumstances, which is boat use maybe 8 -15 times a year maximum, the Pertronix unit will suffice. If I used my boat offshore or would be "away" from civilization, I would have gone with Mallory. Perhaps I will change my mind after I get some hours under my belt!

                  Thanks again Rick!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The points distributor and original pertronix ign modules needed a high ohm coil or a resistor. For the II, they got rid of that so you eliminate the resistor and splice the wires together.

                    Comment

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