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**Chief_Alen** · 01-29-2012, 01:02 PM

The engine will weigh about 800 pounds. If you wish to pull the bell housing and engine as one unit it will weigh in about 900 pounds.

The way i have done it is:

Using a half ton chain pull " Hoist " Connected to a stout tree limb about 6-7 feet about the top of the transom. I lift the motor close to the tree limb and pull the boat out from under the motor. And lower it to a pallet or trailer or whatever your going to work on the motor.

1- remove all wires, cables etc that will prevent the motor from moving.

2-You have the mani's off and the risers and elbows.

3- Remove the bolts holding the mounts to the stringers. Can be done from the motor to the mounts or from the mounts to the stringers.

4- I like to use 2 straps one from the engine lift ring, and one from the back usually around the flywheel.

5- I like to go slow and lift while standing in the boat never getting under the engine.

6- i like to slip a screwdriver into the chain to lock it so the motor will absolutely not move.

No tree limb a hoe will do, a forklift, or you can make a frame to use. Simple easy and if you have ever pulled a engine from a car you can pull one from a boat.

**Guest** · 01-29-2012, 01:17 PM

Thanks Chief for your quick response!

i had a couple of questions to your response where you say:"If you wish to pull the bell housing and engine as one". Is it easier to remove the engine without the Bell Housing?

I was planning on renting an engine hoist (i.e.: cherry picker), do you think this will be high enough?

You also mention "slip a screwdriver into the chain to lock it so the motor will absolutely not move", id this the timing chain and do I ned to remove the pulleys from the engine in order to take the engine out?

Thanks again for your help.

**Guest** · 01-29-2012, 02:25 PM

WannaTango wrote:
Thanks Chief for your quick response!

i had a couple of questions to your response where you say:"If you wish to pull the bell housing and engine as one". Is it easier to remove the engine without the Bell Housing?

I was planning on renting an engine hoist (i.e.: cherry picker), do you think this will be high enough?

You also mention "slip a screwdriver into the chain to lock it so the motor will absolutely not move", id this the timing chain and do I ned to remove the pulleys from the engine in order to take the engine out?

Thanks again for your help.

It will likely be easier to leave the bell housing on.
An automotive cherry picker will likely not be tall enough to remove your engine. I pulled my engine by reinforcing the beams in my garage.
You will only have to remove the pulleys if you need extra clearance to get your engine out of the engine bay, same with the bell housing.

**2850Bounty** · 01-29-2012, 02:43 PM

WannaTango wrote:

i had a couple of questions to your response where you say: "If you wish to pull the bell housing and engine as one". Is it easier to remove the engine without the Bell Housing?

You also mention "slip a screwdriver into the chain to lock it so the motor will absolutely not move", id this the timing chain and do I ned to remove the pulleys from the engine in order to take the engine out?

Please don't use a tree limb to pull your engine unless you fully understand the risks involved in that the limb may not support the weight. This is one individual's suggestion.... so do this at your own risk!

Perhaps engineer something that would be more fail-safe.

As for an engine hoist.... best take some good measurements first.

Often the elevation is not great enough, and when it is enough, the engine mass/weight may be way above what would be safe to work around.

Error on the side of caution.

You'll want the flywheel cover ("bell housing" in the automotive world) removed anyway in order to access the flywheel, and to then remove the oil pan and rear seal housing.

So why not separate these at the engine and leave the flywheel cover attached to the inner transom plate via the two rear engine supports????

The drive will be OFF, so there will be no issues when re-installing.

Pull the four lag screws from your front engine mounts, leaving the brackets and mounts attached to the engine block.

Do not adjust the height just yet.

Perhaps color the various bolt heads with a paint pen, take pictures and keep on file.

I don't know what the "slip a screwdriver into the chain...." means, but would suggest thru-bolting, washering and nutting if this regards lifting chain links.

.

**Guest** · 01-30-2012, 10:00 AM

I've pulled engines the hard way and with questionable safety in the past. Last couple engines I've done I did with a crane and the other with a huge forklift. The crane cost me $90 and it was simply awesome. Two engines placed in 30 minutes. The forklift took a little more time and tweaking, but it was far better than any lift or half-arsed rig I've used before. You can have everything ready and just drive to a crane place to have them pull it.

**2850Bounty** · 01-30-2012, 10:18 AM

Excellent idea, Carlos. Drive to them, rather than paying the extra mobile charge. They could then set the engine in the back of his truck. I like that!

Here Junior..........., you pretend you're the engine, I'll be the hoist, and let's see if she'll hold!

.

**Guest** · 01-30-2012, 10:27 AM

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/651243=24410-engine1.jpg[/img]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/651243=24411-engine2.jpg[/img]

**Guest** · 01-30-2012, 11:23 AM

Check around the oil pan, rear main seal, and valve covers - this is where most oil leaks occur.

SBC blocks without manifolds weigh about 500 lbs so not that hard to lift.

Once I needed to lift a SBC to replace rear main seal - made a "gantry" sort of lift with 4x4's on the sides laying on the gunnels and as uprights, and a 4x6 cross beam, with 2x4 stabilizers front / back and at 45 degrees at the corners. Lifted the block with a come along up about 3 feet to work on underneath it. Never got under it, always worked off to side - scary but it worked and was very secure.

**Guest** · 01-31-2012, 04:45 AM

HI i had a merc 350 that woz leaking oil ! or so i thort. when u take the leg off is thear oil in the bellows ? mr drives top oil seal had gon the drive oil worked its way up the bellows through the gimble bearing into the bilge !

**Guest** · 02-01-2012, 09:47 AM

$60 bucks for lumber $40 bucks for 1/2 ton chain hoist.......works great. Entire rig has caster wheels to move it around on my concrete driveway.

Oil leaks in bilge: loose oil filter or defective/missing oil seal ring in filter. Loose galley plug near oil filter bypass. Leaking valve covers. Front/rear main seals. Timing chain cover. Leaking oil pan gasket. Cracked block.

Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/651860=24438-CIMG0007.jpg[/img]

**Guest** · 02-01-2012, 04:23 PM

kalsobrook wrote:
$60 bucks for lumber $40 bucks for 1/2 ton chain hoist.......works great. Entire rig has caster wheels to move it around on my concrete driveway.

Oil leaks in bilge: loose oil filter or defective/missing oil seal ring in filter. Loose galley plug near oil filter bypass. Leaking valve covers. Front/rear main seals. Timing chain cover. Leaking oil pan gasket. Cracked block.

You are a braver man than me! I was able to "borrow" a friends shop. I thought long and hard about the home made gantry crane route, but ultimatley decided against it.

**Guest** · 02-02-2012, 09:37 PM

i have a 2755, and i pulled the engine last fall to change the coupler and clean stuff up over the winter.. the problem is you cant pull it strait out because the arch is directly above the engine.the arch doesn't come off very easy (pull the passenger seat for access,take off trim panels that have been attached for 20 years and don't want to come off,6 bolts that dont want to move ether,and it supports the windshield), so you have to lift from behind the boat.. the bow rail is just over 5' and the arch is 11'.. a regular auto cherry picker is too small. i got a neighbor to pull mine with a landscaping excavator bucket.. some tool rental companys rent a large tow behind engine hoist for $50 a day.. that is how im planning on putting the engine back in. they measured it for me but i am going to measure and get a good look for my self before spending any money.. the correct way is to use a fork lift with an extended boom on the forks. you can lift the engine out with out a problem.. to pull your engine, remove the drive, unhook all the wires cables and exhaust.. unbolt the front engine stands from the hull, remove 1 bolt on each side of the bell housing to the transom.. the engine is ready to pull out..

**Chief_Alen** · 02-03-2012, 03:02 AM

I also would leave the bell housing in place. A auto motor crane ain't gonna do it.

Best way is of course a forklift. Or a hoe.

I actually have 2 - 2 x 10 lashed between 2 trees about 11' apart in my backyard. I back my boat under. The wood is lashed about 7 feet above the top of the transom.

Up goes the motor out from under goes the boat. I lower the motor to my trailer or a 4 x 8 piece of plywood next to the motor i want to install if i need to transfer parts.

PS: I have also hoisted deer up that same span. Forget how many.

**Guest** · 02-04-2012, 09:45 AM

Thanks everyone for your valuable feedback and recommendations. I am going to have to think hard and long about this given my situation as to where my boat is at. With all this feedback though, I think I have a good idea on how to proceed with this project now.

This is an awesome forum for someone like me and thanks again!

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