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2010 Bayliner 195 BR stuck outdrive (here we go again)

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    #16
    That bearing is super rusted. Perfect example of a boat that wasn't maintained at all. Lots of guys pull the drive annually to check engine alignment and visually inspect the bearing, u joint crosses and re grease everything. Easy to do if it ain't rusted together
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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      #17
      Congrats on getting it out!
      You can salvage that shaft and part of the gimbal bearing assembly.
      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3VZ7Vb62TnE
      clean the shaft up and make sure the splines make a good slip fit in the flex plate. You may have to rig a wire brush on stick to help clean any residue off the plate.
      P/C Pete
      Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
      1988 3818 "GLAUBEN
      Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
      1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
      MMSI 367770440
      1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
      Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

      Comment


        #18
        I recall the OP not having the grease zerk on the gimbal housing for greasing the bearing, it looks like that rusted bearing is the greasable version perhaps someone put an older greasable bearing in a non greasable gimbal housing.
        OP if in fact you have no zerk on the starboard side of the gimbal housing you'll need to replace the bearing with the newer sealed one.
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #19
          The gimbal bearing is the factory one, sealed, non serviceable. Don't forget that everything on this boat is original, even the dirt....

          Comment


            #20
            Yea !
            Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

            1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

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              #21
              Shopping for parts right now. I've decided to bite the bullet and go with Mercury parts, especially the bellows and bearing. I found the Mercury parts catalog online but it's not showing the bellows kit P/N 30-803099T1 as a valid part number. Only shows the individual pieces. Anybody can tell me if that Mercury part number 30-803099T1 will fit my boat? Again, it's an Alpha One Gen 2 drive, 2010 year, sealed gimbal bearing...
              ​​​​​​​Thanks again for your help and patience...

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                #22
                Google search list it as OEM Alpha one Gen Two kit, seems to be what you need.
                1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                Mike

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                  #23
                  Thanks Mike. Yes, I Googled it before, of course. My only concern is, for some reason, Mercury's parts catalog separates the Alpha One gen 2 in two categories, up to 1998 and 1998 and up. I don't know the difference between them but I assume the kit SHOULD be the same for all Gen 2's. There's not many vendors carrying the Mercury kits (gazillions of aftermarkets though) but ob their description of the kit the don't specify application. I guess my best bet will be calling Mercury.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Check out ...

                    ebasic

                    go-to-marine

                    Mercury,Mercruiser,Johnson,Evinrude,OMC Marine Engine Parts Lookup by Wholesale Marine

                    Aftermarket Marine Home Page






                    Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                    1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                    '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Oh the kit might be different because of the shift shaft bushing.

                      I urge everyone to change it out everytime you change the water pump, and i urge everyone to use a complete kit with housing.
                      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Well, we all learn something new every day. I've just called Mercury. Yes, part number 30-803099T1 is the repair kit for all Alpha One Gen 2 transoms. And yes, it is more expensive than aftermarket parts, but I don't want to cheap out on something that, if fails, will flood my boat.
                        I'll return the slide hammer to Advance (I checked at their website their tool loan program. I don't know if any of you ever used it, but basically you can rent whatever tool you need for FREE....yes, you pay full price up front, but you have up to 90 days to use the tool and return it for a full refund. And if it breaks, has a full warranty, so you don't even need to worry about that....only in America!...where I'm coming from, once you purchased something and you left the store, it is YOURS. No exchanges, no refunds, no complains....LOL) and get a u-joint press to repair the shaft.
                        Yesterday, right after removing the shaft from the engine, I started the engine...wowww.....what a difference!....no grinding noise....purring like a kitten....

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Looks like the shaft is not serviceable. The ujoints cannot be removed using the conventional way (c press). The body of the ujoint knocks against the shaft before the cap is completely out of the way. So, I had to use my grinder again and cut the ujoint. Assembling the new ones won't be a problem because the caps are preseed in position from outside. Steep learning curve....oh well...

                          Comment


                            #28
                            You may want to fill the cups with grease before you start installing the cups, and have something in the cavity to keep the needle bearings in place. Ask me how I know. It was a pita.
                            P/C Pete
                            Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                            1988 3818 "GLAUBEN
                            Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                            1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
                            MMSI 367770440
                            1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
                            Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

                            Comment


                              #29
                              The OEM u-joint is about $100 at the dealer, around $60 online. I've found a good replacement made by SKF, NAPA P/N UJ344. Fits perfect and has a grease fitting. Only con is I have to replace the grease fitting (it's too long for this application) with a flush type fitting. But this u-joint is $27 each.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                This is a good illustration of the down side of non greasable parts. Even if there was a leak in the bellows, if the gimble bearing could still be greased, it would not have been as rusted as that was and might have come out easier. Also, didn't Merc drives used to have a grease fitting on the coupler, to grease the driveshaft splines without removing the drive? Finally, the only reason to make u joints non greaseable is to reduce manufacturing costs. Not to make them better! I have the original 1988 u joints in my Cobra and have replaced the gimble bearing once, in 15 years of salt water boating. The drive has been removed regularly which is what needs to be done to avoid this problem. The driveshaft splines look like they were never greased.
                                88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                                98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                                07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                                Long Island Sound Region

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