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2010 Bayliner 195 BR stuck outdrive (here we go again)

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    2010 Bayliner 195 BR stuck outdrive (here we go again)

    Hello everybody!....unfortunately my post has been lost with the old system. But thanks to your tips I was able to remove the outdrive yesterday. I got a 5lb slide hammer that I'll use to drive the shaft out of the gimbal bearing, hopefully. Im.posting the latest pictures to try to continue where we left. ..
    Had to cut the u-joints cup to remove the outdrive. 5lb slide hammer ready for some action

    #2
    I had a question about the bellhousing. I punched a hole while trying to remove it. It hit the steering pin knuckle hard and broke the casing right below the exhaust port. I'm attaching a picture with some notes on how I understand it works. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
    I marked an area as "waterproof"....the area around the transmission shaft should be dry right?. That's the only area that has a red rubber seal on the gasket.
    Another area at the bottom, the exhaust port area, does not have the red rubber seal on the gasket, so I assume it should be a wet area. Even the shift pin does not have an o'ring at the bottom, and the bellhousing case has a small hole to outside on the area, so it has to be water there when the boat is in the water. Where that exhaust port goes to? Center of the propeller?

    Comment


      #3
      Think this was answered but the BOC guys swapped to a new format and looks like some stuff didn't make it over. Give it some time I'm sure there working on it. Area in green is a wet area.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #4
        I posted a response yesterday but all that stuff seems to be lost Yes the green area flows exhaust gasses along with the spent raw water, it flows out through the prop and the two relief ports on the gimbal housing. At rest it'll all be full of water up to the waterline, If it were me I'd just epoxy the brocken piece back in.
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #5
          You get the shaft out of the housing and/or coupler yet?
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks a lot Dave. Yeap, that's exactly what I have in mind and the reason why I was asking about that area, to be able to JB Weld it back without concerns. That area does not carry any weight, so it should be OK glued back together.
            And yes, one of the site's administrators told me that the last week of stuff is gone along with my whole account. ...I had to reopen my account and start from scratch.
            Thanks again....

            Comment


              #7
              And no, I haven't had any time today to get dirty. I did, however, some fit tests with the broken piece (I already epoxied all 3 small pieces together so it's easier to fix everything on the hole) and with the slide hammer, looking at the easiest and best way to hook it up to the u-joint to pull the axle out.
              Hopefully tomorrow....

              Comment


                #8
                In the lost thread I suggested the possability of a cable (maybe 1/4") threaded through/around the u joint cross then secured to the slide hammer or whatever you need to yank that sucker outa there. Sounded like you had struck it and it moved forward a bit. You'll get there.
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm confident that it should move out of there. I've been soaking it with PB Blaster for the last 3 days, few times a day. That should help get things loose...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    In one of my lost posts I recommended that once you have it out to verify the driveshaft inserts smoothly into the engine coupler. Pull the driveshaft, remove gimbal bearing, check coupler engagement.
                    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Been thinking about this thread ... a slide hammer might not do it, but slow steady pressure might.

                      A puller, with a a piece that spans the opening, slowly forcing the shaft towards you. I would also see if i could somehow jack up the rear of the engine, me thinks the rear of the engine dropped, pinching the shaft in the coupler / bearing, the bearing being rusted, or rust on the other side ( engine side ) on the shaft preventing the shaft moving.

                      One time i had to actually cut the damn shaft to remove the engine.

                      Friends boat, older drive, etc, we found a donor boat, upgraded the drive, etc, why i say a donor boat with a hole in the hull etc, you can place the donor side by side with your boat transfer over everything.
                      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      Comment


                        #12
                        SUCCESS!!!!!!!!......I was finally able to pull the shaft out of the bearing and the bearing out of the transom. ...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The gimbal bearing is so rusted inside that I cannot turn it by hand , and hardly turns using a tool

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Awsom! That's gotta feel goog. looks like it was rusted pretty good to the coupler. Like Mike suggested check the coupler and the engine alignment while your in the working on the assembly.
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Now, to do some shopping...I'm surprised with the prices. Thought they were cheaper.... $200 for the bellows kit, $70 for the u-joints socket that I had to cut, $60 for the u-joint that was damaged in the process.....oh well....at least I'll be using OEM parts and be sure that everything down there is OK....at this point I'm happy, even after all this aggravation, that I decided to investigate the noise coming from the back of the engine further. The thing could have grenaded in the middle of the water with my family on the boat....
                              Thanks a lot for all the input and suggestions!!!!

                              Comment

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