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    Fuse box corrosion-gctid400016

    I noticed the nav lights were not working on my 185. I traced it down to a corroded fuse box terminal. Even the fuse itself has some corrosion on it but there is also no connectivity between the fuse receiptical and the post. I don't see corrosion in any other fuses but now I'm worried. Is this a sign that my other connections (i.e. ignition) could be corroding and I could end up dead in the water? Should I replace the entire fuse panel (I don't really use the nav lights)?

    -Robert

    #2
    Clean and tighten all the connections and terminals. Then coat them with a Terminal Corrosion Inhibitor.
    Jim McNeely
    New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
    Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
    Brighton, Michigan USA
    MMSI # 367393410

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      #3
      RobertGary1 wrote:
      I noticed the nav lights were not working on my 185. I traced it down to a corroded fuse box terminal. Even the fuse itself has some corrosion on it but there is also no connectivity between the fuse receiptical and the post. I don't see corrosion in any other fuses but now I'm worried. Is this a sign that my other connections (i.e. ignition) could be corroding and I could end up dead in the water? Should I replace the entire fuse panel (I don't really use the nav lights)?

      -Robert
      Replace it. Bayliner uses uber-cheap fuse blocks... my 2050 had some sort of hardware store concoction I think. 2855 used brass so it all corroded.

      Blue Sea makes a http://"http://bluesea.com/products/...t negative bus.

      Comment


        #4
        JimMc wrote:
        Clean and tighten all the connections and terminals. Then coat them with a Terminal Corrosion Inhibitor.
        The problem is I'm not sure how to clean them. This is the fuse receiptical so its difficult to get anything into the small slot to clean.

        -Robert

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          #5
          this is the price of a lower cost boat: lower cost components. They all fail after some time but the cheaper ones fail a lot earlier. I'd replace it with a good one like the Blue Sea (others have tin plated too). Saves you a lot of headache in the long run at not to much of an investment (Blue sea 5028 ~$25 for 6 fuses and with cover). Before you waste an hour or two in cleaning to fix it for this season you better install a good new one in 30mins and be done for the next 10 years.

          I stopped wondering if I see low end solutions in my boat and just get good stuff and install it. Same for the trailer.... The fuse block is pretty high on my list already!

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            #6
            ishiboo wrote:
            Replace it. Bayliner uses uber-cheap fuse blocks... my 2050 had some sort of hardware store concoction I think. 2855 used brass so it all corroded.

            Blue Sea makes a http://"http://bluesea.com/products/...t negative bus.
            I agree. Replace it. I had the same problem with the nav lights on my 2755 a couple of years ago. I tested the circuit at the fixture with a test light and got a very dim glow. Not only was there corrosion at the fuse box, as an added extra bonus, I found a wasps' nest established right next to it and under my dash.:surr

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              #7
              I must agree with the guys. I forgot that the smaller Bayliners are not as heavily built as the larger.
              Jim McNeely
              New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
              Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
              Brighton, Michigan USA
              MMSI # 367393410

              Comment


                #8
                On of the things I like about the OEM fuse buss is that it also has a small bus for ground so accessories can easier get ground by tapping into this row of connectors. Do aftermarket fuse busses have this?

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                  #9
                  RobertGary1 wrote:
                  On of the things I like about the OEM fuse buss is that it also has a small bus for ground so accessories can easier get ground by tapping into this row of connectors. Do aftermarket fuse busses have this?
                  The Blue Sea version I linked to is offered in variants with or without a negative bus.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I just had the same problem--my stereo and lights were intermittent or totally not working. After screwing around with it forever, I just ordered the Blue sea one with the integral negative bus and plastic cover. I installed it this weekend and it totally solved all the problems at once. After I removed the original fuse block, I could easily tell that the fuses were not making good contact in the sockets. 1999 2050LS

                    Comment


                      #11
                      ishiboo wrote:
                      Replace it. Bayliner uses uber-cheap fuse blocks... my 2050 had some sort of hardware store concoction I think. 2855 used brass so it all corroded.

                      Blue Sea makes a http://"http://bluesea.com/products/...t negative bus.
                      I replaced my old glass-fuse blocks with two of those last year. No more getting under the dash to wiggle fuses!

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