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  • #1

    Fuse box corrosion-gctid400016

    I noticed the nav lights were not working on my 185. I traced it down to a corroded fuse box terminal. Even the fuse itself has some corrosion on it but there is also no connectivity between the fuse receiptical and the post. I don't see corrosion in any other fuses but now I'm worried. Is this a sign that my other connections (i.e. ignition) could be corroding and I could end up dead in the water? Should I replace the entire fuse panel (I don't really use the nav lights)?

    -Robert
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    • #2
      Clean and tighten all the connections and terminals. Then coat them with a Terminal Corrosion Inhibitor.
      Jim McNeely
      New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
      Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
      Brighton, Michigan USA
      MMSI # 367393410

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        • #3
          RobertGary1 wrote:
          I noticed the nav lights were not working on my 185. I traced it down to a corroded fuse box terminal. Even the fuse itself has some corrosion on it but there is also no connectivity between the fuse receiptical and the post. I don't see corrosion in any other fuses but now I'm worried. Is this a sign that my other connections (i.e. ignition) could be corroding and I could end up dead in the water? Should I replace the entire fuse panel (I don't really use the nav lights)?

          -Robert
          Replace it. Bayliner uses uber-cheap fuse blocks... my 2050 had some sort of hardware store concoction I think. 2855 used brass so it all corroded.

          Blue Sea makes a https://"http://bluesea.com/products...t negative bus.

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            • #4
              JimMc wrote:
              Clean and tighten all the connections and terminals. Then coat them with a Terminal Corrosion Inhibitor.
              The problem is I'm not sure how to clean them. This is the fuse receiptical so its difficult to get anything into the small slot to clean.

              -Robert

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                • #5
                  this is the price of a lower cost boat: lower cost components. They all fail after some time but the cheaper ones fail a lot earlier. I'd replace it with a good one like the Blue Sea (others have tin plated too). Saves you a lot of headache in the long run at not to much of an investment (Blue sea 5028 ~$25 for 6 fuses and with cover). Before you waste an hour or two in cleaning to fix it for this season you better install a good new one in 30mins and be done for the next 10 years.

                  I stopped wondering if I see low end solutions in my boat and just get good stuff and install it. Same for the trailer.... The fuse block is pretty high on my list already!

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                    • #6
                      ishiboo wrote:
                      Replace it. Bayliner uses uber-cheap fuse blocks... my 2050 had some sort of hardware store concoction I think. 2855 used brass so it all corroded.

                      Blue Sea makes a https://"http://bluesea.com/products...t negative bus.
                      I agree. Replace it. I had the same problem with the nav lights on my 2755 a couple of years ago. I tested the circuit at the fixture with a test light and got a very dim glow. Not only was there corrosion at the fuse box, as an added extra bonus, I found a wasps' nest established right next to it and under my dash.:surr

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                        • #7
                          I must agree with the guys. I forgot that the smaller Bayliners are not as heavily built as the larger.
                          Jim McNeely
                          New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
                          Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
                          Brighton, Michigan USA
                          MMSI # 367393410

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                            • #8
                              On of the things I like about the OEM fuse buss is that it also has a small bus for ground so accessories can easier get ground by tapping into this row of connectors. Do aftermarket fuse busses have this?

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                                • #9
                                  RobertGary1 wrote:
                                  On of the things I like about the OEM fuse buss is that it also has a small bus for ground so accessories can easier get ground by tapping into this row of connectors. Do aftermarket fuse busses have this?
                                  The Blue Sea version I linked to is offered in variants with or without a negative bus.

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                                    • #10
                                      I just had the same problem--my stereo and lights were intermittent or totally not working. After screwing around with it forever, I just ordered the Blue sea one with the integral negative bus and plastic cover. I installed it this weekend and it totally solved all the problems at once. After I removed the original fuse block, I could easily tell that the fuses were not making good contact in the sockets. 1999 2050LS

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                                        • #11
                                          ishiboo wrote:
                                          Replace it. Bayliner uses uber-cheap fuse blocks... my 2050 had some sort of hardware store concoction I think. 2855 used brass so it all corroded.

                                          Blue Sea makes a https://"http://bluesea.com/products...t negative bus.
                                          I replaced my old glass-fuse blocks with two of those last year. No more getting under the dash to wiggle fuses!

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