Cobra OD kit-gctid827922

[CptCrunchie]

I've been getting some water intrusion in my aft bilge and believe it may be coming from the rubber 'boots'. The boat didn't see much duty for almost 8 years, and these were replaced in 2009. I'm fairly confident I can do the job, but need to know which kit I need. I found this one. Is this the one I need? Also, is there something special about doing this I should be made aware of so I don't get surprised and land up piling a half-apart OD onto my OMC guy's ToDo list?

Thanks in advance.

[88fourwinns]

Nope that's for a Merc Alpha. Go to Crowley marine online and get OE Cobra parts. Not a hard job. Have you pulled a drive off before?

This is very similar to doing the bellows on a Volvo SX. Some people feel that you can remove the lower (exhaust) bellows first then flip up the pivot housing and remove the driveshaft bellows. But I found it easier to remove the pivot housing ( disconnect the shift cable at the engine bracket to allow the pivot to move back with out kinking the cable) because you can more easily see that the bellows is properly seated on the gimble housing end.

You need:

Driveshaft bellows

Exhaust bellows if it's all rotted

Drive to pivot gasket

Water passage o ring

OMC gasket sealer

OMC triple guard grease

There are 2 fiber washers between the pivot housing and the part the swivels for the steering they may be worn out and need to be replaced.

[CptCrunchie]

"88fourwinns" post=827946 wrote:
Nope that's for a Merc Alpha. Go to Crowley marine online and get OE Cobra parts. Not a hard job. Have you pulled a drive off before?

This is very similar to doing the bellows on a Volvo SX. Some people feel that you can remove the lower (exhaust) bellows first then flip up the pivot housing and remove the driveshaft bellows. But I found it easier to remove the pivot housing ( disconnect the shift cable at the engine bracket to allow the pivot to move back with out kinking the cable) because you can more easily see that the bellows is properly seated on the gimble housing end.

You need:

Driveshaft bellows

Exhaust bellows if it's all rotted

Drive to pivot gasket

Water passage o ring

OMC gasket sealer

OMC triple guard grease

There are 2 fiber washers between the pivot housing and the part the swivels for the steering they may be worn out and need to be replaced.

Thanks, 88fourwinns. No, I have never pulled an outdrive, so this is a first. I'm okay with bolts, screws and nuts, but other than that, I prefer my OMC guy handles it. This seems like it would be a fairly straight forward job. And since all the seals are the same age, if one is leaking, I may as well replace all of them while I'm at it.

Thanks for the info. I will go to Crowley and place the order. I'll also have to use a labelled diagram to see what pieces you are talking about, but that's easy enough. There's also YTU, ....YouTube University. (Thank you, HueyCrew!)

I'll let you know as I go, and be back if I run into anything I don't understand.

Gotta love this site!

[88fourwinns]

PS:

if you find water in the driveshaft bellows keep in mind you will probably have to replace the gimble bearing if its the least bit rough, and also check the u joints as well, both due to corrosion. If you find that, you might want to haul it off to the OMC mechanic.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55473.cfm?mdl=UUHSAD

For some reason the transom mount picture does not show up in their '89 catalog so this is for an '88 but I believe all the parts are the same.

[CptCrunchie]

I tried the Crowley Marine site, but glazed over a number of times trying to figure out what all I need. I went back to the Wholesale Marine site and found this kit. From what I can tell, it has what I need, correct?

[88fourwinns]

That's what you need, but you also need OMC gasket sealer (might be able to find Merc Perfect seal locally, or even Permatex Aviation sealer for the gasket) and OMC triple guard grease (might be able to use the Merc equivalent). I've used Sierra for the gasket, but prefer OE for the Bellows for the driveshaft. The Triple guard grease is used to help make the seal where the aft end of the bellows mates with the bearing housing on the drive. It is a very thick water proof grease that seals out water. I also use it to fill the pocket in the pivot housing where the bell crank for the shifter is. That keeps out water and keeps it moving smoothly.

How's your back? A Cobra drive ain't exactly light. I used a hand made dolly for some years and then bought a nice one to make it easier.

Some reading:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/support/tech_articles/omc-cobra-outdrive-removal.html

http://www.crowleymarine.com/support/tech_articles/omc-cobra-outdrive-installation.html

You read these, still want to do it? Keep in mind that getting it off is easier than getting it ON. They can slide right on, or fight you for an hr. Hence the stand, unless you want a sore back!

To do the bellows, you also need a snap ring pliers, why, well to get the retainer for the exhaust bellows off. Wear eye protection in case it decides to go airborne. Then you can remove the exhaust bellows at the gimble end. A long skinny screwdriver helps, or a small socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet that fits the hex on the hose clamp....

After that's out of the way, you have to remove the hinge pins holding on the pivot housing, which are 1/2" allen bolts if I recall. When you remove them watch out for the fiber washers that may fall out, they go between the pivot and the part that swivels from side to side (gimbal assembly in the diagram on the Crowley site). I pick up spares when I do this job.

In order to be able to pull the pivot housing back a bit without changing the adjustment down by the bellcrank in the pivot housing (don't want to do that unless you need to, then you need to have the special tools and knowledge to set up the cable again), I disconnect it up on the engine bell crank, this way you will not change the adjustment, its just a cotter pin. Then you can pull back the pivot housing just enough to pop the aft end of the driveshaft bellows out. Get a ratchet strap to hold up the pivot housing while doing this. Then you can unscrew the hose clamp holding the other end of the bellow on the gimble housing. Now when you re-install, you have to use OMC gasket sealer on the flange of the gimble assembly but there is also a groove that the bellows fits into, to make a good seal. The screw clamp should go at the 1:00 position, to not scrape the bellows when turning. Once its on, then you have to finagle the aft end of the bellow into the end of the pivot housing, it kind of snaps in. After that, you can install the exhaust bellow and reinstall the hinge pins (don't forget the fiber washers) for the pivot housing. I use a coat of Triple guard grease on those washers to keep them in place and some OMC gasket sealer on the threads of the hinge pins, so they will come out next time. Re-connect the shift cable up on the engine. Climb out and have a beer or 2 and straighten out your back...:P :P :P About an hr or so later, come back and tackle re-installing the drive.


Attached files

[dktool]

"CptCrunchie" post=827975 wrote:
I tried the Crowley Marine site, but glazed over a number of times trying to figure out what all I need. I went back to the Wholesale Marine site and found https://www.wholesalemarine.com/omc-...r /> this kit. From what I can tell, it has what I need, correct?

Don't forget to buy an alignment bar to check engine alignment while drive of off. Also, replace the drive shaft seal if / when you have the gimbal bearing out.

Do a search regarding difficulty removing drives and or gimbal bearings from units which show signs of salt water intrusion in the gimble housing, it may offer a gut check for you.

[CptCrunchie]

"88fourwinns" post=827988 wrote:
That's what you need, but you also need OMC gasket sealer (might be able to find Merc Perfect seal locally, or even Permatex Aviation sealer for the gasket) and OMC triple guard grease (might be able to use the Merc equivalent). I've used Sierra for the gasket, but prefer OE for the Bellows for the driveshaft. The Triple guard grease is used to help make the seal where the aft end of the bellows mates with the bearing housing on the drive. It is a very thick water proof grease that seals out water. I also use it to fill the pocket in the pivot housing where the bell crank for the shifter is. That keeps out water and keeps it moving smoothly.

How's your back? A Cobra drive ain't exactly light. I used a hand made dolly for some years and then bought a nice one to make it easier.

Some reading:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/support/tech_articles/omc-cobra-outdrive-removal.html

http://www.crowleymarine.com/support/tech_articles/omc-cobra-outdrive-installation.html

You read these, still want to do it? Keep in mind that getting it off is easier than getting it ON. They can slide right on, or fight you for an hr. Hence the stand, unless you want a sore back!

I hear ya. I'm thinking about rigging a tripod and using one of my many block and tackles. Once I get it off, I'll pull the boat away from the OD.

Getting it back on, yeah. I removed the lower unit on an old Merc 50, and it was fun realigning the splines to it would slide back on. Not looking forward to that. However, since my OMC guy just charged me $300 to semi-rebuilt my carb, and the carb was off the boat, I can only imagine how much he would charge for this. Besides, as long as it is straightforward, I should be okay, ...and the link you posted is very straightforward.

"88fourwinns" post=827988 wrote:
To do the bellows, you also need a snap ring pliers, why, well to get the retainer for the exhaust bellows off. Wear eye protection in case it decides to go airborne. Then you can remove the exhaust bellows at the gimble end. A long skinny screwdriver helps, or a small socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet that fits the hex on the hose clamp....

After that's out of the way, you have to remove the hinge pins holding on the pivot housing, which are 1/2" allen bolts if I recall. When you remove them watch out for the fiber washers that may fall out, they go between the pivot and the part that swivels from side to side (gimbal assembly in the diagram on the Crowley site). I pick up spares when I do this job.

In order to be able to pull the pivot housing back a bit without changing the adjustment down by the bellcrank in the pivot housing (don't want to do that unless you need to, then you need to have the special tools and knowledge to set up the cable again), I disconnect it up on the engine bell crank, this way you will not change the adjustment, its just a cotter pin. Then you can pull back the pivot housing just enough to pop the aft end of the driveshaft bellows out. Get a ratchet strap to hold up the pivot housing while doing this. Then you can unscrew the hose clamp holding the other end of the bellow on the gimble housing. Now when you re-install, you have to use OMC gasket sealer on the flange of the gimble assembly but there is also a groove that the bellows fits into, to make a good seal. The screw clamp should go at the 1:00 position, to not scrape the bellows when turning. Once its on, then you have to finagle the aft end of the bellow into the end of the pivot housing, it kind of snaps in. After that, you can install the exhaust bellow and reinstall the hinge pins (don't forget the fiber washers) for the pivot housing. I use a coat of Triple guard grease on those washers to keep them in place and some OMC gasket sealer on the threads of the hinge pins, so they will come out next time. Re-connect the shift cable up on the engine. Climb out and have a beer or 2 and straighten out your back...:P :P :P About an hr or so later, come back and tackle re-installing the drive.

Holy crap! "In order to be able to pull the pivot housing back a bit without changing the adjustment down by the bellcrank in the pivot housing (don't want to do that unless you need to, then you need to have the special tools and knowledge to set up the cable again), I disconnect it up on the engine bell crank, this way you will not change the adjustment, its just a cotter pin." Wow! Say what? 99% of these terms may as well have been Greek. Thankfully, the photos in the links will at least show me what needs doing. Thank you for the instruction, but it is a tad lost on my mechanical abilities. But if I run into an issue, I'll take photos and you can tell me what I need to do. How's that?

Or ....and no disrespect 88fourwinns, but does anyone have an idea how much this job should cost if I get my OMC guy to do it?

[dktool]

"CptCrunchie" post=828034 wrote:
Once I get it off, I'll pull the boat away from the OD.

does anyone have an idea how much this job should cost?

You over thinking this, that is akin to moving the mountain rather than Muhammad.

I manhandle it off and use an engine hoist to install.

I would charge someone $400.00 labor to do it all, including engine alignment. YMMV

[CptCrunchie]

"dktool" post=828038 wrote:

"CptCrunchie" post=828034 wrote:
Once I get it off, I'll pull the boat away from the OD.

does anyone have an idea how much this job should cost?

You over thinking this, that is akin to moving the mountain rather than Muhammad.

I manhandle it off and use an engine hoist to install.

I would charge someone $400.00 labor to do it all, including engine alignment. YMMV

Seriously? $400 and $125 for the kit? After paying $300 to replace some screws, a float and some gaskets/seals in a carb, then spray paint everything on the outside black, I figured it would be at least a boat buck. Hmmmmm....... Indeed, I may be overthinking this. hmy:

Oh! And I just reread 88's post about something needing to be adjusted, and dk's comment needing some special tool to get it put back together. It's looking like a no brainer that my OMC guy should do this. And then there's my bad back...... Gotta love this aging thing.

[dktool]

"CptCrunchie" post=828039 wrote:


Seriously? $400 and $125 for the kit?

That is the difference between paying someone who can do it in their driveway for extra cash and a shop that has people standing in line with their wallets open and their pants around their ankles.

[CptCrunchie]

"dktool" post=828043 wrote:

"CptCrunchie" post=828039 wrote:


Seriously? $400 and $125 for the kit?

That is the difference between paying someone who can do it in their driveway for extra cash and a shop that has people standing in line with their wallets open and their pants around their ankles.

Oh. Good visual.

Where do you live???

[dktool]

"CptCrunchie" post=828044 wrote:


Where do you live???

So Cal Sorry, it would be fun to have two of the same year and model in my driveway, but they would have a Ford verses Chevy pissing contest.

[CptCrunchie]

"dktool" post=828047 wrote:

"CptCrunchie" post=828044 wrote:


Where do you live???

So Cal Sorry, it would be fun to have two of the same year and model in my driveway, but they would have a Ford verses Chevy pissing contest.

Used to be tried and true a Ford guy. Oddly, the two I/O and inboard powerboats I've owned have had Chevys. But then again, we are only talking motors, not the rest of the truck ...or car.

[CptCrunchie]

I learned something today that you older California car guys might be interested in. Back in the 60's and 70's, one of the best carb and distributor guys in racing had a shop in Glendale, CA called, Western Performance Inc. In his 80's, he still has his shop, rebuilds carbs, and every now and then, as a friend (major car guy) tells me, he takes his double turbo Chevelle out to the Forks drags every now and then to 'get the carbon out'. Even where I picked up the gasket this morning told me that when this guy rebuilds your carb, you just need to bolt it back on and set the idle. His name is Rex Carson and he lives 5 blocks from me! Sure wish I would have known that 2 months ago, ....but I still want to meet him! Anyone know him personally? I'll mention your name when I see him.

Here's a link to an article about him. Impressive!