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Boat stalls under 2000 rpms-gctid827694

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    Boat stalls under 2000 rpms-gctid827694

    Hi, I have a 1996 Bayliner Trophy 2352, 5.7 mer with Alpha 1 outdrive.

    A few weeks ago I came back from a few hour trip and on my way back the boat started dying when starting to take off and when in no wake zone. I had to keep the rpms at around 2000 rpms at least to keep it running.It would idle just fine and even rev up if not in gear.

    I had the gimble bearing changed a few days ago and I asked him to check the water separator filter. He sent a picture showing it had about 75% water in it so he changed the filter.

    The next day I went out and started it. At first it would die if not at around 2000 rpms, but after it warmed up it idles fine. I let it run for about 45 minutes in the slip then I checked the filter and it did not appear to be any water in it.

    I took the boat out of the water yesterday to clean it up. I put about 40 gallons of fuel in it with 2 bottles of heat. I usually put Stay-bill in it, but this time I used heat because of the water I saw in it last week.

    I put it back in this morning and same thing. The boat took a while to warm up and stalled if under 2000 rpms. After it would stay running at idle I took it out. Immediately after putting it in gear it stalled. It would start right up no problem. When I played with the throttle to get it going, it would go on plane no problem. I drove it around the creek for about 45 minutes back and forth and it was fine until I brought the speed down then it would stall. It did back fire a few times through the carb.

    As I was pulling it back into my slip, it backfired and ran fine after that. I didn't take it out again because I was already at my slip and out of time.

    I did put a remaned carter carb on it in August. It ran great until this issue started. Other than that, I haven't doen anything else.

    Any ideas?

    Thank you

    Any ideas?


      Backfiring indicates a timing issue, have you checked the timing. The idling issues indicates a vacuum leak which could be a result of timing being really off.
      1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II



        Recent carburetor swap, sounds like it runs great when your up on plane. Maybe the idle circuit is acting up or needs adjustment.
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX" '93 2556
        Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
        The Rebuild Of My 2556
        My Misc. Projects



          I'd double check the timing to verify the chain didn't jump a tooth or the distributor didn't loosen and turn. If timing is good I'd open and clean that carb. Considering your water separator was almost full I suspect your carb may have injested water and gunked things up.
          Jim Gandee
          1989 3888
          Hino 175's
          Fire Escape
          [email protected]
          Alamitos Bay, SoCal


            a classic case of the carburetor having a piece of debris hindering the idle circuit and the backfire blew it back into the carb out of the way... it WILL happen again, as the piece of debris has been dislodged, but is still in the circuit. the backfire was likely the cause of a hard and unsuccessful transition between the intermediate circuit to the idle circuit, which should be smooth and without any noticeable hiccups in a properly operating carbruetor...

            the product HEAT is the worst additive you could use in any fuel system, UNLESS you are going to burn ALL the gas out of the tank within a day or two of adding it... it is methanol, which is hydroscopic (absorbs water) and does nothing for the system except to absorb a bit of water so it will mix with the fuel and pass thru the system.... its like creating a higher concentrate of ethanol gas in the tank,

            water in the fuel in any form can be harmful, and ALWAYS is if allowed to set for extended periods. it seriously degrades the fuel, and in time causes corrosion of the metal parts of the system...

            the fuel tank breathes thru its vent not only when the engine is running but anytime there is a temperature, barometric, or humidity change in the atmosphere. this means the air, with its moisture content, that is ingested into the tank contacts the fuel/methanol mixture (and ethanol if you run ethanol gas), and the methanol can absorb the moisture from the air in the tank.... when the tank vents out during the next atmospheric change, it expels the now "dryer" air... when it breathes in again, the new air has a load of moisture in it waiting to be absorbed by the alcohol in the fuel.

            so it should be easy to understand why a couple of days of this is no problem, but left in the tank for extended periods is only exacerbating the issue... i have had to clean many systems where the person added too much of the HEAT product to a tank that had water in it, used the machine for an hour or two and then let it set for a few weeks....and it wouldnt run the next time they try to use it.

            the fuel can gel in the carb and lines to be the same consistency as the gel they sometimes use in flower vases in place of water... thick.

            your carb needs to be cleaned out good and the high content alcohol fuel you have created needs to be out of the system as soon as possible.. there are a lot of better additives that could be used to clean a fuel system (I use a product called seafoam), which actually does clean the system and within a couple of hours dissolves any gum or varnish left by ethanol fuels, without any ill effects... if the debris in your carb is a piece of loose gum/varnish the seafoam will dissolve it. if its a piece of grit, the carb will have to be disassembled to get it out of there..

            NU LIBERTE'
            Salem, OR

            1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
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