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Connecting rode chain and still being able to use windlass-gctid399949

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    Connecting rode chain and still being able to use windlass-gctid399949

    is it possible to connect two lengths of G4 HT ISO 1/4" chain together without jeopardizing integrity (strength)and still be able to use a windlass. I have a Lewmar V700 and currently have 10' of chain.

    #2
    http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5

    There's a special tool that makes it much easier.

    Most people just buy a pre-spliced rode. They are available for a great price on eBay.

    Comment


      #3
      SwampNut wrote:
      http://www.anchoring.com/article_info.php?articles_id=5

      There's a special tool that makes it much easier.

      Most people just buy a pre-spliced rode. They are available for a great price on eBay.
      I was thinking about getting an all chain rode because my splice almost always jams in my windlass.

      Comment


        #4
        wallinlitwa wrote:
        is it possible to connect two lengths of G4 HT ISO 1/4" chain together without jeopardizing integrity (strength)and still be able to use a windlass. I have a Lewmar V700 and currently have 10' of chain.
        I've wondered about this same thing before.

        I'd like to add length to my existing G4 1/4" chain and yet have no issues at the Gypsy.

        If I were to do this, I think that I'd cut a link, join the two chain pieces, and TIG weld the one link back together.

        You'd lose the galvanized finish on one link though.

        .
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Comment


          #5
          wallinlitwa wrote:
          is it possible to connect two lengths of G4 HT ISO 1/4" chain together without jeopardizing integrity (strength)and still be able to use a windlass. I have a Lewmar V700 and currently have 10' of chain.
          I don't believe an average Joe can do this, the only way may be if you get a G4 split link connector, which will still reduce the strength, though not necessarily below what you need. I think the only way to do it right is to cut, open and close up and weld... cheaper to get a new rode unless you have a bunch of stainless you're working with.

          Comment


            #6
            Sorry, I miss-read. There is a split link you can use as noted above, but it would definitely be the weakest link. However, I don't think that chain rodes get much stress relative to their strength. I could be wrong.

            I rarely have an issue with my splice stopping at the gypsy. When it does, I go out briefly and back in and it feeds fine. I'm thinking someone made your splice overly thick or without proper taper.

            Comment


              #7
              Trying to save 10 foot of chain is not worth the fooling around.

              Just buy the chain you want.
              Jim McNeely
              New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
              Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
              Brighton, Michigan USA
              MMSI # 367393410

              Comment


                #8
                JimMc wrote:
                Trying to save 10 foot of chain is not worth the fooling around.

                Just buy the chain you want.
                +1

                Comment


                  #9
                  JimMc wrote:
                  Trying to save 10 foot of chain is not worth the fooling around.

                  Just buy the chain you want.
                  I know, but I'm trying to save 11 feet of G4! What's a good and logistical cut-off point?

                  Actually, I've been looking into prices for just replacing the entire length of chain, but at bit longer.

                  I've also been wanting to do this with 8 plate line anyway.

                  .
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It's my understanding that G-whatever chain in heat treated. So welding a link to add chain may cause problems. IMHO sell the length you have and buy the length you think you need. And yes a long feathered chain to rode back splice is customary and very strong if done correctly. Penny saved..etc...

                    Vic

                    Ft Myers
                    Vic Stewart SN
                    Past Commander
                    Cape Fear Power Squadron
                    Ft Myers Power Squadron
                    1998 2859 7.4 L/B2
                    Raw water cooled

                    Comment


                      #11
                      2850Bounty wrote:
                      I know, but I'm trying to save 11 feet of G4! What's a good and logistical cut-off point?

                      Actually, I've been looking into prices for just replacing the entire length of chain, but at bit longer.

                      I've also been wanting to do this with 8 plate line anyway.

                      .
                      I had 200' of 8-plait rode (aka brait), spliced to 50' of chain. Brait is beautiful rope; soft and supple and strong. Even the splice was a thing of beauty, but as it wore out I tried a couple of times to renew it myself. I couldn't get it tight and neat enough to pass through the windlass without hiccups. In the end I sold the entire rode to a guy who thought he could tie better knots than I could. And I put that cash toward 240' of all-chain rode.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I added 20 feet of chain by using a hammer link. From all I have read, they are as strong as the original chain and I had no problems with the windless. I got the right one for my HT chain at a marine store.

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                          #13
                          Just insure the tensile strength of your weakest link (splice link) is stronger than the tensile strength of your rope. Then you only need to be paronoid about your rope

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