AQ280D/ Helmet screw won(39)t come out-gctid399888

[Guest]

Ok looks like Im the only one who can't get this flat head screw out any help would be great

its a big flat head screw with a ring with 2 noches in it on top of Helmet just trying to replace belows and gearbox seals

[Guest]

Ffox1 wrote:
Ok looks like Im the only one who can't get this flat head screw out any help would be great

its a big flat head screw with a ring with 2 noches in it on top of Helmet just trying to replace belows and gearbox seals

Please post at the very least the drive you are referring to.

You may have to use an impact screwdriver, though one of our gurus like 2850 will let us know if that's not a good idea... I guess if severely corroded, it could take the aluminum threads right out of the helmet.

[Guest]

Oh ya sorry AQ 280 D Volvo Penta with 130 volvo around 1977

redoing whole boat runs great needs some tlc and has become father, son project never had a i/o and don't really know which comes out first big scew or narrow ring with notches on top of helmet.

Thanks

[Guest]

Ffox1 wrote:
Oh ya sorry AQ 280 D Volvo Penta with 130 volvo around 1977

redoing whole boat runs great needs some tlc and has become father, son project never had a i/o and don't really know which comes out first big scew or narrow ring with notches on top of helmet.

Thanks

Wait and see if bounty comes around, otherwise repost this in the technical discussion with the fact it's a VP in the title and he will assist

[Guest]

I'll move it over to Tech and edit the title for a little more action.....:surr

[Guest]

tbear wrote:
I'll move it over to Tech and edit the title for a little more action.....:surr

That'll make things happen... thanks tbear!

[2850Bounty]

Ffox1 wrote:
Ok looks like Im the only one who can't get this flat head screw out any help would be great

its a big flat head screw with a ring with 2 noches in it on top of Helmet just trying to replace belows and gearbox seals

Ffox1 wrote:
Oh ya sorry AQ 280 D Volvo Penta with 130 volvo around 1977

redoing whole boat runs great needs some tlc and has become father, son project never had a i/o and don't really know which comes out first big scew or narrow ring with notches on top of helmet.

Sounds like you have an AQ130 engine with a 280 drive. The "D" follows the PZNR #'s, and simply designates the ratio.

If around 1977, the helmet pin will the single pin/screw.



The narrow ring with notches is the bushing within the helmet. This must stay in the helmet.

Later will be the 2-bolt helmet pin.

(bolts have been removed in this image)



The single screw will be a US dimension hex socket head (not Metric), std RH thread.



Use a hex key wrench and loosen it. If stubborn, you may need to heat the aluminum clamping ring a bit.

Once loosened and out of the way, raise the helmet up.

Now the transmission is free to be loosened and removed.

Watch for the shims directly underneath the transmission.... these must go back in along with all new O-rings!

See the BOC Vault thread titled "AQ series frequent Q's and A's" for tips on how to remove the clamping ring/collar and bearing box.

Caution: if you round out the four cap screw heads, you're destine for a machinist and milling machine work.

Post photos if you have any trouble.

.

[Guest]

Thanks all for help just got back from out of town I'm still lost, mine is a big flat head screw not allen and not double bolt it has a sloted ring around edge. I heated it and hit it with impact driver after half hour walked it half way around seems to be going in not out and im working it counter clockwise. and not geting any looser

Thanks again ffox1

[2850Bounty]

Take one of these...........



.... and aim it at your helmet and helmet pin. Push the button until you hear a little "click". Now connect it to your PC and bla bla bla, and upload the images to your BOC thread here.

This way I can see what you're up against, because sump'n doesn't sound right to me.

You should have one of several style helmet pins..... either a single pin style w/ the hex socket head....

3 types of the single pin:

2 different thread diameters and 2 different lengths. All are hex socket head.



Or the double bolt pin:

2 types..... jack threads, and NO jack threads.



Someone may have Jerry Rigged this, and you aren't aware of it.

Without photos and without seeing this, I can't help you.

.

[Guest]

Ffox1 wrote:
Thanks all for help just got back from out of town I'm still lost, mine is a big flat head screw not allen and not double bolt it has a sloted ring around edge. I heated it and hit it with impact driver after half hour walked it half way around seems to be going in not out and im working it counter clockwise. and not geting any looserThanks again ffox1

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http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...4112.jpg[/img]

http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...4118.jpg[/img]

http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...4112.jpg[/img]

[2850Bounty]

Ah.... thank you! That puts it into perspective!

I've not seen anything like this, but I'm not all that surprised. Someone lost the OEM pin, and fabricated their own.

Glad that you got it out. Did it damage the female threads any?

You'll need this thread pitch, but the length has yet to be determined.

[Guest]

No I did not get it out the picture is a spare that came with boat still lost should I keep on bangin on it ?

thanks for all your help

FF:worth

[2850Bounty]

Rent or buy a high quality Hand Held Impact Driver tool and use the straight slot tip. Not Harbor Freight.... a good one!

(this one shown is probably HF)



Apply heat to the transmission Bearing Box clamping collar where the female threads are housed.

(this is the double bolt pin style, but the part is very similar)



Do your best to not damage this collar. A replacement collar requires a change to the BB shim control.

NOTE: a good used helmet can be found for as low as $30 to $60.

If you need to sacrifice the helmet in order to get it out of your way, by all means do so.

Once the helmet is out of your way, you can now remove the transmission and get it on the work bench where you'll have more control.

No need to remove the entire drive.... just the transmission.

.

[Guest]

Thanks; alot of heat and 45min got it out my impacts are very good have big snap-on straight blade everthing is ok "lucky" but now upper spline is stuck...of coarse

any Ideas for getting that out

thanks for all help

FF

[2850Bounty]

Oh yeah.... been there/done that also, and more than once.

I don't recall just who is was, but one member just went through this during the last six months or so.

I believe that he ended up sacrificing the center universal drive shaft section, and then later gained access to the yoke and was able to remove it.

Shoot me a BOC email (not PM) and we can set up a phone call. Easier to explain than on forum.