2012 Bayliner 175 Starter Issues Clicking Won(39)t Turn Over Mercruiser 3.0-gctid823659

[Guest]

I bought a 2012 bayliner 175 with the mercruiser 3.0 earlier this year and have been using it without issue up until today. I had it out last weekend and didn't have any problems starting it several times throughout the day. Today I got it in the water and went to start it and it just made a clicking noise. The battery was new last year and I turn it off after every use. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it read 12.7 volts. I sanded/cleaned the connections from the battery to the starter solenoid and also the negative connection to the starter solenoid. The boat still wouldn't start and just made a clicking noise. Not a single click but a continuous clicking while trying to start the boat. I thought maybe the solenoid could be bad so I tried jumping it with a screwdriver but it made the exact same clicking sound that is made when I try to start it with the key. Next I assumed if the solenoid was ok it must be the starter so I took that out and hooked it up directly to a battery and then jumped it with a screwdriver and it spun and seems to be fine. I also checked the basics like making sure that the boat was in neutral and that the kill switch was set to run. I also took a look at the main ground and it looked nice and clean.

Is it possible that the starter would spin without a load but won't under load? Or are there any more connections I should clean?

I'm also completely confused by the circuit breaker on the starter solenoid. There was a really corroded metal washer between the circuit breaker and the power from the battery. I removed it when I put the starter back in because it seemed like I would get a better connection without it. Do I need this washer?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Guest]

Also I had assumed this was unrelated but earlier this year the ignition came apart when I took the key out. I put it back in and it has been working fine since then. But if I put the key in and wiggle it as I pull it out while in the off position the ignition will come back out.

[Nauti_Mike]

What soleniod did you jump the slave soleniod on the engine near the breaker or the soleniod on the starter?

There is no breaker on the starter but there is a fuse block. Can you post a picture?

Lastly remove the spark plugs to see if water is in any cylinder. Then see if you can turn the engine over by hand.

[builderdude]

"Nauti Mike" post=823681 wrote:
What soleniod did you jump the slave soleniod on the engine near the breaker or the soleniod on the starter?

There is no breaker on the starter but there is a fuse block. Can you post a picture?

Lastly remove the spark plugs to see if water is in any cylinder. Then see if you can turn the engine over by hand.

Yep, Mike is on the right track, remove plugs and try to turn it over.

[Guest]

"Nauti Mike" post=823681 wrote:
What soleniod did you jump the slave soleniod on the engine near the breaker or the soleniod on the starter?

There is no breaker on the starter but there is a fuse block. Can you post a picture?

Lastly remove the spark plugs to see if water is in any cylinder. Then see if you can turn the engine over by hand.

Thanks for the responses. I jumped the solenoid on the starter. Should I try jumping the other one?

You're right it isnt a breaker its a fuse block. Its number 8 in the diagram. It looks pretty corroded. Is there a way to test it?

[img ]https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/mercmastertech/2009-07-03_033100_90ampfuse.jpg[/img]

I took the plugs out and was able to turn the engine by hand. It was fairly difficult though I has to push on the belt to keep it from slipping.

[Nauti_Mike]

To check the fuse ohm between the stud and the tab, should be zero ohms.

Good it turned by hand, yes not easy by using the belt. How did the spark plugs look? Any rust?

Next measure voltage at both soleniods when cranking, should be 12V

[builderdude]

Mike, doesn't the block fuse just protect the wire to the alt? Thought I remember a post about that.

[Guest]

"Nauti Mike" post=824190 wrote:
To check the fuse ohm between the stud and the tab, should be zero ohms.

Good it turned by hand, yes not easy by using the belt. How did the spark plugs look? Any rust?

Next measure voltage at both soleniods when cranking, should be 12V

The fuse is good then. The spark plugs looked great where they were threaded into the engine.

The voltage at both solenoids is just under 13 volts until i try to crank it then it drops down to about 4

[builderdude]

Have you checked the nagative cable at the battery and engine block?

If you jump the slave and nothing happens then it's likely the starter solenoid. If you jump the starter solenoid and nothing happens the starter motor could be toast or the cable connections aren't making a solid connection.

[Ruffryder]

Block fuse is the MAIN 90 AMP fuse... this just about feeds almost everything.

sounds like that battery is toasted to me.

[Guest]

I tried jumping the slave solenoid and absolutely nothing happened. What I don't understand is why the engine wouldn't turn over when I tried jumping the solenoid on the starter. I was able to get the starter to spin when I took it out of the boat hooked it up directly to a battery and jumped the solenoid. I ordered a starter with solenoid from DB Electrical and I'm hoping that will fix my problem.

I'm fairly certain the battery isn't the issue as I also tried starting it with my truck battery.

[Chief_Alen]

Follow the neg cable to the main ground on the thru bolt on the bell housing.

Remove and clean the end and bolt.

Examine the end, is it green.

[builderdude]

"Chief Alen" post=824211 wrote:
Follow the neg cable to the main ground on the thru bolt on the bell housing.

Remove and clean the end and bolt.

Examine the end, is it green.

My thoughts too. Corrosion at the connections or within the cable itself. Use some jumper cables to temporarily bypass the battery cables and see what happens.

[Nauti_Mike]

"builderdude" post=824195 wrote:
Mike, doesn't the block fuse just protect the wire to the alt? Thought I remember a post about that.

Correct Dave

[Nauti_Mike]

"Three" post=824197 wrote:

"Nauti Mike" post=824190 wrote:
To check the fuse ohm between the stud and the tab, should be zero ohms.

Good it turned by hand, yes not easy by using the belt. How did the spark plugs look? Any rust?

Next measure voltage at both soleniods when cranking, should be 12V

The fuse is good then. The spark plugs looked great where they were threaded into the engine.

The voltage at both solenoids is just under 13 volts until i try to crank it then it drops down to about 4

Measuring at the battery and cranking does the voltage drop to 4Vs? If so the battery is bad else you have a loose or corroded connection that could be either on the 12V supply or return.