HELP! Disaster happened I need advice, please-gctid823422

[MonteVista]

While cruising at speed apparently someone hit the windlass switch by accident. I had replaced the original momentary-ON, OFF, momentary-ON switch with one that works ON, OFF, momentary-ON so I don't need to keep my finger on the button while dropping anchor and can use both hands for steering which I need to do in crowded places under heavy wind. With the switch turned on and anchor/chain being dropped we did not immediately realize it and by the time we realized it it was too late! The engine came to a sudden stop with a terrible sound. I needed to call for assistance and were able to unwinded the chain and pull it back in. Chain and anchor and the windlass are working OK. So is the engine. However the propellers are toast. Even worse, the props don't turn when I put it in gear. I had to be towed a long distance to shore and then the boat was lifted up on a truck for a long journey home. Back home my mechanic removed the drive and observed the transmission gears are OK but some parts/linkages need to be replaced. The really bad news is the engine coupling is broken. He thinks this will require the engine to be lifted out.

I have the QSD 4.2L Mercury engine in a Bayliner 285. Does anyone know if the coupling can be replaced without removing the engine?

Lesson learned: always have a chain lock engaged to prevent such a situation.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Safe cruising

[mr.bent]

You probably have a bravo drive connected to that motor, so you can't change the coupler without lifting the engine.

The cover over the coupler is also the rear mount of the engine so no easy way, but a nice chance to clean up the engine compartment. :cheer:

[MonteVista]

Thanks,

I do have Bravo III so the engine has to come out. You are right, the only silver lining in the cloud is I should be able to end with a very clean bilge and engine compartment.

Oh boy!

[CptCrunchie]

"MonteVista" post=823422 wrote:
Lesson learned: always have a chain lock engaged to prevent such a situation.

When I installed my windlass, I added a 65A helm-switched solenoid to where the power for it came off a gang on the transom wall. Then I ran the power for the solenoid switch off the ignition switch, so the engine has to be running, and I cannot run the battery down.

Now I only need to fire up the engine and hit a switch for the windlass rocker switch to have power. I've also kept that 'big power source' off the helm until I need it.

[Guest]

I feel your pain. The anchor should be secured with a line tied to a cleat. That way if you accidentally hit the switch it won't release. Yes, I learned this the hard way!

[MonteVista]

After my incident I too am considering something similar. In addition to a chain lock which I should be using on every trip, I may add a regular switch in tandem with the windlass switch on the dashboard. I can then discipline myself to keep this switch always in the OFF position so the windlass can not be operated, unless I intend to drop/pick up anchor.

So many lessons, so little time (and money!) to learn them all!

Be safe, all!

[Ruffryder]

you should be using a good anchor chain tensioner!

you dodged a bullet last time this happened to me, it ended up damaging my engine... spun the main bearing.

[builderdude]

One of these to keep the switch from being accidently activated.

http://www.rpelectronics.com/30-1250-toggle-switch-safety-guard.html

[carguy]

The opposite can happen too. Years back a few of us were rafted up overnight. Collection of 30 t0 35 foot express cruisers. Storm came up out of no where with 50 mph gusts. We started dragging towards a permanent mooring. One of the guys got on the radio and told everyone to deploy. While most held, the right side of the raft was still spinning. While we didn't drift into the mooring, it wasn't until the next morning that we figured it out. The searay 340 on the end had about 150 feet of chain and anchor line hanging from the boat with the anchor safely attached to the tensioner. He still hasn't lived that down.

[Mr._Darcy]

Sorry to hear of your troubles, but thank you for sharing the incident. Now I know of one more thing to be careful about, and hope to avoid that disaster.

Greg

[Chief_Alen]

You might be covered under your insurance.

[MonteVista]

Thanks Chief. I sent a message to Pantaenius which is my insurance co. I am waiting to hear.

[JimMc]

I would not mention the part about changing the switch to the insurance company

[Glasply1]

You say you need to change some parts/linkages in outdrive. I would make sure there are no loose bits floating around in and amongst the gears in the drive (and be very sure the gears are all good.... I'd visually inspect). Also, a hard stop that stalls the engine like that is tough on motor (ask me how I know!). In fact, when I made my claim the insurance company asked if the motor stalled. You gotta pull the motor so I'd do a compression check in case there's something else that might need to be done because if there is it would be a waste to find out later.

[MonteVista]

Thanks,

Most of the innards of the transmission (gears, etc.) are being replaced. I shall ask the mechanic about the engine also.

P.S. The lower gears are intact. In the upper section, the gears are ok but the yellow sleeves inside (for the clutch, I believe) are damaged. Unfortunately Mercury does not sell those separately and further they sell the transmission gears as a pkg. So, I am having the entire transmission replaced. May be Mercury has a different policy in other countries but at least here in Turkey, I have to through this route. All in all parts costs add up tp about $6700 (incl. tax and duty charges). A brand new drive unit takes much longer to bring in and costs around $12,500, props separate. The props are repairable but once I have the boat functional I intend to have those replaced.

Thanks,