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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Jeff wrote:
    Very different motor, etc. than mine but I had a similar problem about the interrupter. Look at the plate it is on and spray it with some SeaFoam or similar product. Mine was just gummed up and I got it working. Just a thought.
    Thanks its worth a try

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Very different motor, etc. than mine but I had a similar problem about the interruptor. Look at the plate it is on and spray it with some SeaFoam or similar product. Mine was just gummed up and I got it working. Just a thought.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Well the engine purrs like a kitten. But in the water the interrupt switch kills the motor if you try to go forward or reverse. So now I have another problem. HELP!

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Chief Alen wrote:
    Idle should be around 700 " generally " that is. To know exactly what your engine calls for get a manual for that exact year engine.

    What affects idle ? Good question. I hope the better mechanical minds on this site chip in on this thread.

    My opinion... if the engine had good idle say around 700 " generally " using that number for example only, and now you have a problem such as yours that popped up i would:

    1- Tune up the engine, a full tune up. You will be surprised or maybe not what new plugs and such can do for performance.

    2- Pull all the plugs keeping track of what plug goes in what hole.

    3-Read the plugs, they tell the whole story... well maybe 90%.

    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

    4- With all the plugs out and on a warm engine, throttle fully down do a compression test and compare it to the base. What is base one may ask ?

    Base is the compression test you wrote down when you first got the boat. Don't have a base ? Again " generally " 150 with all the cylinders within 10% of each other is considered good. Again consult your manual for the factory spec's. See there is a method to my madness, and the Chief has not lost all his marbles { YET }.

    4-Timing. Oh my this one has given fits to mechanics for generations and still does. Consult the manual. 1 btdc up to infinity. Just kidding watched buzz lightyear with a niece.

    5- Now your ready to fiddle with the throttle cables, but wait, why would they go out of wack ?

    Maybe just maybe there is something else going on here, maybe the carb needs a rebuild. Cant get it to idle, choke plate is fully open when warm, classic symptom of the idle circuit being clogged.

    Post back after the test, my fingers are tired after all i only type with 2 fingers.
    1 plugs cap rotor button timing

    4 compression good

    5 rebuild carb

    In instruction set with exploded view of carb says some models use this pump(mine) but that one not in kit.

    6 adjusted cables shift and throttle.

    conclusion now have just a tiny stumble just off idle if I move throttle slowly as when bumping to dock. Not interrupter switch because its already in gear. Could this be because they did not include my pump in carb kit? Will do water test to see if I can work around and to see what effect water has on all that I have done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chief_Alen
    replied
    Idle should be around 700 " generally " that is. To know exactly what your engine calls for get a manual for that exact year engine.

    What affects idle ? Good question. I hope the better mechanical minds on this site chip in on this thread.

    My opinion... if the engine had good idle say around 700 " generally " using that number for example only, and now you have a problem such as yours that popped up i would:

    1- Tune up the engine, a full tune up. You will be surprised or maybe not what new plugs and such can do for performance.

    2- Pull all the plugs keeping track of what plug goes in what hole.

    3-Read the plugs, they tell the whole story... well maybe 90%.

    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

    4- With all the plugs out and on a warm engine, throttle fully down do a compression test and compare it to the base. What is base one may ask ?

    Base is the compression test you wrote down when you first got the boat. Don't have a base ? Again " generally " 150 with all the cylinders within 10% of each other is considered good. Again consult your manual for the factory spec's. See there is a method to my madness, and the Chief has not lost all his marbles { YET }.

    4-Timing. Oh my this one has given fits to mechanics for generations and still does. Consult the manual. 1 btdc up to infinity. Just kidding watched buzz lightyear with a niece.

    5- Now your ready to fiddle with the throttle cables, but wait, why would they go out of wack ?

    Maybe just maybe there is something else going on here, maybe the carb needs a rebuild. Cant get it to idle, choke plate is fully open when warm, classic symptom of the idle circuit being clogged.

    Post back after the test, my fingers are tired after all i only type with 2 fingers.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    In general:

    If the throttle cable pulls to increase throttle plate opening, lengthen the distance between the cable barrel and the cable bracket.

    If the throttle cable pushes to increase throttle plate opening, shorten the distance between the cable barrel and the cable bracket.

    This should ensure that the throttle plates fully close upon returning the throttle handle to the idle position.

    Not saying this is your particular issue, but perhaps worth looking into.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest started a topic idle floats-gctid399430

    idle floats-gctid399430

    On my 2000 1750 the idle floats from 1000 to 3000. I have to push the control a long way then all of the sudden the motor races I back off it just like floats down but never gets back to idle??????:arr
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