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Help! Moisture in floor compartment sub-surface-gctid822597

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    Help! Moisture in floor compartment sub-surface-gctid822597

    I'm hoping someone may be able to provide some advice about a problem I'm having (I tried to attach pictures but couldn't get the files to upload)

    I have a 2006 Bayliner Deckboat; in the floor compartment (where you keep the skis) the gelcoat cracked and allowed water to penetrate the underlying wood. My plan was simply to remove the affected gelcoat, sand, apply a new layer of fiberglass and a new layer of gelcoat and get back on the water. My concern, however, arises from the fact that moisture continues to appear despite the boat having been out of the water for 3-ish weeks.

    Also...when I removed the gelcoat it appears there are several intentionally placed one-inch diameter holes in the wood containing some type of material (I can't tell if it's fiberglass cloth or something else). I have no idea why these holes are there, but the fact they're soaked makes me concerned.

    Questions.....1) given these indications...should I be concerned about moisture being trapped underneath the compartment floor? If so...what can be done about it?

    2) what purpose do these holes serve? What role do they/should they play in the repair process?

    Thanks any and all who might be able to provide some wisdom. DT

    Dj, pleas add some personal information to your signature like more about where you live and you boat. It really helps us help you.

    Without pictures I'm guessing the holes are to drain the locker into the bilge. I can't imagine what material other than floatation foam might be under the ski locker. As to the general moisture, that's going to happen unless you have some ventilation or leave the lid slightly open.

    Your repair plan is correct although you may find yourself replacing the plywood. No big deal, just use Marine grade fir, soak it lay over with a 50/50 mix of catalized resin and acetone until it won't take any more then install it and glass it in. If you install drain holes, do the resin/acetone thing then either line the holes with mat or seal in a chunk of pvc with 5200. Lay down some gel coat and it should last for years. One thing, do not use stainless steel fasteners if you are going to seal them in. Stainless needs to breath or it rots. Sintered bronze is the most correct fastener in a sealed application from what the wooden boat guys tell me.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    MMSI 367770440


      Thanks, Pcpete; we just moved to Colorado from South Carolina. I bought the boat in 2008 (new, although an '06 model) in Virginia. Since then the boat has been in Virginia, Utah, Alabama, South Carolina, and now Colorado (I'm on active duty with the USAF). It's been stored outdoors (covered) throughout.

      I'm looking into removing the board as you suggest, but it's going to be really tough to get to because the floor hatch is relatively small, and I'm not sure I can reach the extent of the board for removal/install, and cutting through the floor to get to it is out of my league. Right now I'm weighing whether to dry it out as best as possible and just resurface it, or take the more conservative approach and cut the board out to inspect for moisture incursion in the underlying hull.

      Also...the aforementioned holes were covered by fiberglass and gelcoat, so they did not drain to the bilge pump, best as I can tell. Still a mystery to me unless they connect to a dowel supporting the storage compartment floor above the hull.

      Thanks for your insight.