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    Long or small block, 350-gctid822476

    Not being mechanical, which one do I have? And is one better than the other, and why?


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    "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
    MMSI: 367637220
    HAM: KE7TTR
    TDI tech diver
    BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
    Kevin

    #2
    Kevin, you have a small block Chevy 350ci as you listed,

    Long block is an automotive term for an engine sub-assembly that consists of the assembled block, crankshaft, cylinder head, camshaft (usually), and valve train. A long block does not include fuel system, electrical, intake, and exhaust components, as well as other components.
    Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
    Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
    93 3058 sold
    92 2855 (day boat)
    91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
    Longbranch WA
    Life is Good

    Comment


      #3
      Definitely not a short block, but it's a little more than a long block.

      Fully dressed long block?
      Esteban
      Huntington Beach, California
      2018 Element 16
      Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
      Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

      Comment


        #4
        Complete drop in engine fully dressed.
        Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

        1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        Manalapan N.J

        Comment


          #5
          Kevin, although it is not necessarily an automotive term exclusively, Joon is correct .

          An automotive or marine long block would be an assembled cylinder block with installed cylinder heads.

          This would typically include crankshaft, rods, pistons/rings, camshaft, camshaft followers, timing chain & sprockets, cylinder heads with complete valve train, etc. ............. minus the tin-wear (oil pan & valve covers).

          Some will include the front timing chain cover and harmonic balancer...... some will not!

          https://www.google.com/search?q=SBC+...w=1777&bih=824

          A short block would be an assembled cylinder block only....... minus the tin-wear.

          Some builders are not including the camshaft, camshaft followers and timing chain/sprockets today..... so use caution and ask questions.

          https://www.google.com/search?q=SBC+...w=1777&bih=824

          As for which is better...... there is no correct answer. It would depend on what the need is!


          .
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            My thought, wasn't asked just gonna throw it out there.

            A person buy's a complete engine from fuel delivery to pan, and coupler complete drop in engine, from say MM.

            Something goes wrong, and believe me it happens alot, something goes.

            MM will cover it, with the warranty, will Joe blow engine re-builder down the block cover his engine?

            Buy a long block install all your old stuff something goes wrong, they have a out, it was your old elbow etc that went.

            Buy a short block install your old cam or a " hot " cam or say a standard one bought somewhere else, will the manufacturer of the engine cover it ?

            What does a boater really want ?

            To go boating, and not have the boat on the hard after spending alot, to refit.

            Me now today, i am searching for a boat that only needs a engine or outboard. really 2 engines.

            Leaning towards twin outboards .
            Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

            1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            Manalapan N.J

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for your posts. I'm taking myself to school on the mechanical, fighting my belief that I will never understand this, so anything you can assist me with is extremely appreciated. TBH, I didn't quite understand Joon's post after reading green650's post. I thought long and short were actually different sizes of block.

              So, if I understand this, a long and short block have the exact same block, but the long comes complete with everything except covers, and short comes as just the block so you can add whatever you want to it?

              Mount Vernon Marine completely rebuilt this engine before I got it. Their machine shop donated a 5.7L block after the PO literally shattered the original 5.0L, to which they bolted the remaining working parts from the 5.0L. Reading this, ....



              ....which would mine be? Or at this point, does it really matter since it was pretty much pieced together?

              And the comment, 'dropped in' means they rebuilt this on their bench, then put it in the boat? Why might this matter?

              Also, there was some confusion when I purchased the boat that it may not be a Vortec. Reading this, would the choke comment verify that it is, indeed, a Vortec?



              So, if it is a Vortec, and considering it now has oversize pistons, what might you guess the HP is? A best guess is fine.
              "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
              MMSI: 367637220
              HAM: KE7TTR
              TDI tech diver
              BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
              Kevin

              Comment


                #8
                Yes, Vortec top end. .040 over w roller camshaft, gotta be somewhere around 300 I'd think. You still running points in the distributor?
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556
                Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #9
                  "builderdude" post=822576 wrote:
                  Yes, Vortec top end. .040 over w roller camshaft, gotta be somewhere around 300 I'd think. You still running points in the distributor?
                  Yes. Almost had my mechanic switch to electronic ignition, but he talked me out of it because of the ESA and Cobra OD. Apparently, it is a nose-bleed of, "and you need to replace this, and this, and this...."

                  If I ever have to switch out the Cobra, I'm going with the VP DP-S, and I'll have him install the Mallory electronic ignition.

                  Tell me, at that point, how feasible is it to change it to fuel injection?
                  "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
                  MMSI: 367637220
                  HAM: KE7TTR
                  TDI tech diver
                  BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
                  Kevin

                  Comment


                    #10
                    "CptCrunchie" post=822578 wrote:


                    Tell me, at that point, how feasible is it to change it to fuel injection?
                    It is very feasible if you have a very fat wallet. Maybe 3-4 boat bucks?

                    Better off buying a new vortec with new carb and electric fuel pump from Michigan motors for under 5 boat bucks. I did that for my 2252 and it started quickly and ran like a raped ape. Still had to pump the throttle some times.

                    Now as for my 2859 with MPI, that thing fired up in a couple seconds every time! No throttle pumping. But, it's simply not worth converting from carb to fuel injection.

                    Sadly, I put my 2859 on the ferry to Alaska yesterday and now I am boatless other than my 10' dinghy.
                    Esteban
                    Huntington Beach, California
                    2018 Element 16
                    Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
                    Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "green650" post=822579 wrote:
                      ....a raped ape.
                      ROTFL!!! There's a visual!

                      I read on another thread about racing mechanics going back to carbs. I have no issue with either, just thought injection was more fuel efficient, ...but that is simply cost prohibitive. Not sure there would be any other gain. I would like to replace the Cobra someday, which will allow to change the ignition. Otherwise, I've very happy with what I have. And 300hp? I've VERY happy with what I have!!
                      "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
                      MMSI: 367637220
                      HAM: KE7TTR
                      TDI tech diver
                      BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
                      Kevin

                      Comment

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