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Capri 1952 blows 15 amp ignition fuse when I turn the key-gctid822410

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    Capri 1952 blows 15 amp ignition fuse when I turn the key-gctid822410

    I have a 1990 Bayliner Capri, 3.0 that is blowing fuses when I turn the key. I found the 15 amp ignition fuse that was blown and replaced it. Turned the key, and the engine started and ran for about 2 minutes, then died. I replaced the fuse again and watched as I turned the key, and it blew immediately. Bilge pump, horn, blower, radio are all working. I pulled the dash to look for an obvious shorted wire and could not see anything in bad shape. Note: the button in the throttle control that puts the gear in neutral broke years ago. I use a screwdriver to push in the contact on the shifter to put it into neutral and it has worked for 10 years. Is it possible I have damaged that neutral safety switch by mashing it? Also, is there a likely place to look for a shorted wire? I pulled the ignition switch and had it checked with a multimeter and that is not the problem. I am trying to avoid rowing it to the public dock, putting it on the trailer and driving it to a mechanic, but will do if need be.

    Thanks, Brian

    Blowing the fuse when you turn the key to the run position? Or when trying to crank? Probably nothing to do with the neutral saftey switch, it's job is to open the start circuit if she's in gear. Even with the ignition fuse blown she'll crank, yes/no?

    I'd be looking in the engine bay for a loose connection/possible short in that ignition circuit. Maybe at the coil itself or the slave solenoid. Another thought is to disconnect the main wire harness barrel connection to see if there's an issue there.
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX" '93 2556
    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
    The Rebuild Of My 2556
    My Misc. Projects


      have you tried turning the key to the "on" position without starting the engine, and see if it still blows the fuse?

      the keyswitch usually powers up all the circuits, so if all other things are working still after the fuse blows, its probably a shorted wire only to the ignition.... on that boat the neutral safety switch is probably at the shift linkage near the back of the motor.... there are standard color codes that you can look up to find what color of wire you are looking for (sometimes the boat wiring is not exact to the code, but bayliner tried to stay within code for the most part), and rummage around on the motor end of things to look for a short.

      anyone who owns a boat should have a short circuit tester on board, or at least own one. it would pinpoint the issue within about 3 minutes... here is a link to a very good one http://gtcdiagnostictools.blogspot.c...mcustomer.html .... there are cheaper ones available but I cant recommend something ive never used.

      here is a more complete kit, but not necessary if you dont do a LOT of electrical work.. .... I own both units and they are top quality units.

      Salem, OR

      1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
      5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
      N2K equipped throughout..
      2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
      2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
      '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
      Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding (RETIRED)


        thought I posted to something similar to this B)
        Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
        Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
        93 3058 sold
        92 2855 (day boat)
        91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
        Longbranch WA
        Life is Good


          I went to the boat today and popped a new fuse in and the gauges came up and the fuse did not blow. I got the engine started and let it run for about 10 minutes with no problems. I have a Uniden digital depth finder that came on the boat and it had been making a high pitched noise and acting erratic when going slow in murky water but stopped when the boat got going. Well the noise returned today and then the fuse blew. So I believe the Uniden depth finder is the culprit. I pulled the glass inline fuse and the wires from the depth finder and ran the boat for 20 minutes, even driving very near the dock, taking it in and out of gear. Seemed like that did the trick. When I tied up, I killed the engine, then turned the key again and do not have gauges or starter. The fuse was ok. Am I correct in assuming that when I pulled the fuse and removed the wires from the back of the depth finder I killed electricity to the ignition switch? I found my original owner's manual from Uniden and I can put the wires back on. But I want to replace the thing or just bypass it so I can keep the boat running. Any suggestions for a replacement? Can I use the same wires and through the hull transducer? Any help is appreciated. I am so close to turning this current row boat into a power boat again.


            I don't see how removing the inline fuse to your sounder would effect the ignition. Have you checked the wiring to motor. Is there a connection for the wiring harness at the motor? If so, pull it apart an check for corrosion. I had a bad ground at this connection that caused problems. Make sure your grounds are clean and getting proper connection.
            "Martini's Law" SOLD
            1986 Bayliner 3270, 110 Hino's
            Nova Scotia, Canada


              People steal power from the ignition circuit all the time.

              Depth finder / fish finder should not piggy back off the keyswitch
              Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

              1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              Manalapan N.J