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Another Capri Floor Repair-gctid821339

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    Another Capri Floor Repair-gctid821339

    Just looking for input from experts and anyone with experience. My 99 Capri 1850ss has a soft spot between the floor locker and the rear bench (see attached) and I think its time to address the issue this fall. I've knocked around with a hammer in a lot of places and can't seem to find anywhere else that sounds soft. Engine was out this spring for new gimbal and bellows and shop said everything in the back looked solid The goal is a 1-2 year fix and then we will be moving on to something newer so I'm hoping to remove, patch and glass over.

    The yellow area is the soft spot, the green line is the beam width bulkhead at the back of the ski locker. Taps with a hammer on it sound solid throughout. From what I can guess/estimate there is nothing under my soft spot other than the gas tank.

    The issue I am having trouble wrapping my head around is how to address the cut at the base of the bench seat as well as how far out to cut. Once the material is removed there will be nothing there to support the patch. Am I OK to epoxy in a support board for the edges? IE. cleat

    Last few questions

    - Can I use a polyurethane adhesive instead of screws

    - Engine compartment and locker are a grey color with black strands mixed through. I'm guessing a fiberglass coating (please excuse my lack of knowledge)

    Any help is appreciated, my lack of knowledge and idea of cutting a hole in the floor of my boat has me triple checking and second guessing.

    #2
    It may be a joint in the sub deck. There are some really cost effective boroscopes out there that attach to a USB port on about anything. That should get you a good non destructive look at the underside. It could be simple as a support that's slipped a bit.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    MMSI 367770440

    Comment


      #3
      Unfortunately once the carpet was pulled back I could see the spot where water did intrude..... That said... Did I get lucky?? or just over optimistic? I've cut back to solid wood and drilled a couple test holes and have found no further issue. Attached are a few pictures, if anyone sees something to be concerned about please let me know.

      I was also pleasantly surprised to see the entire deck had fiberglass over the plywood. I think some clean up cuts and I think there will be enough supports that I won't need cleats as planned. I'll need a different saw to cut along the bench, i'm at the limit of my guard.


      Attached files

      Comment


        #4
        The plywood edges looks clean and dry. I'd trim it back to the area of support (1/2 way on top of a stringer or bulkhead or add some support structure) then dry fit your new piece. Coat the new piece and any exposed bare wood with epoxy at least twice on all sides/edges then epoxy it in and glass it over for piece of mind.
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556
        Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #5
          "builderdude" post=821980 wrote:
          The plywood edges looks clean and dry. I'd trim it back to the area of support (1/2 way on top of a stringer or bulkhead or add some support structure) then dry fit your new piece. Coat the new piece and any exposed bare wood with epoxy at least twice on all sides/edges then epoxy it in and glass it over for piece of mind.
          That the plan. You may or may not know. For the cut up against the back bench, can you just use a die or angle grinder with a cut off wheel? I have visions of it kicking back and hitting the gas tank.

          Comment


            #6
            I'd use one of these. It won't cut as fast but you'll have better control of the depth and it won't kick back on ya.






            Attached files

            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556
            Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #7
              The other thing is this:

              That's a large span for unsupported ply depending on the thickness ((1/2"?) . What Id do is cut some cross pieces out of 1"x2" lumber that you can attach to the stringers with right angle brackets. You might only need two cross pieces to support that area. Coat all wood in epoxy on all sides and make sure to use sealer on the screws holding the right angle brackets. This type of support system will eliminate the flex in that area. On my 88 F/W the gas tank hatch is about 6' long by about 2' wide. The factory had four cross pieces to support the tank hatch. Of course since they used unprotected pine this was all rotted when I replaced the deck 10 years ago. I used mahogany for the gas tank stringer supports and the cross pieces and it is still all solid now 10 yrs later....

              The piece of ply you cut out, was it soft & rotted or dry?
              88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

              Long Island Sound Region

              Comment


                #8
                I will look at it a little closer, my concern is the possibility of anything rubbing or vibrating against the tank.

                The cut out was bone dry, it just looked like layers of plywood fell apart...nothing black, nothing mushy. Previous owner had his cover pole that tore threw in that location. He did mention heavy snow load wrecked it cover one year, im guessing all the water in spring melt was directed to this area.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Mine sit on the top of the tank and it has not caused a problem all these years but if you are concerned about that you could size them do that they do not rub on the top of the tank
                  88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                  98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                  07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                  Long Island Sound Region

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Might try one of these to control depth.. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-7...saw-62448.html
                    2007 245 SB 5.0 Alpha 1

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You could fit a cut out piece to the bottom of the deck panel So it fits inside of the of the structure,. maybe with 1/4 to 1/2 inch clearance.Bond the cutout to the deck panel with PPL or epoxy all the way around, then install it to the deck support. It will be much stiffer than the original. Not as good if you put some more runners in, but far easier. If you try to toenail crossbeams in, the nails or screws will work out. Better to cut a notch in the existing beams, than key in the new members, then bond and screw them.

                      Touching the tank is not a problem, but you can't use the tank as a support, as per ABYC
                      1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
                      In over my head for sure!!
                      M/V SKUA refit
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...ak-gctid499442

                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...contessa-refit

                      Comment


                        #12
                        "SKUA 28 Contessa" post=822851 wrote:
                        You could fit a cut out piece to the bottom of the deck panel So it fits inside of the of the structure,. maybe with 1/4 to 1/2 inch clearance.Bond the cutout to the deck panel with PPL or epoxy all the way around, then install it to the deck support. It will be much stiffer than the original. Not as good if you put some more runners in, but far easier. If you try to toenail crossbeams in, the nails or screws will work out. Better to cut a notch in the existing beams, than key in the new members, then bond and screw them.

                        Touching the tank is not a problem, but you can't use the tank as a support, as per ABYC
                        I epoxied a panel underneath like you suggested and then glassed the edges just for a little extra. Seemed very strong when dry fitting.

                        Comment


                          #13

                          ..........
                          1986 Bayliner Contessa 2850
                          In over my head for sure!!
                          M/V SKUA refit
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...ak-gctid499442

                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...contessa-refit

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Got it all finished up. Thanks for help and suggestions.

                            I ran into a couple issues.

                            1. I think may have gone overboard on the adhesive (PL) its thickness caused the insert to not sit flush. Some filler and some sanding I was able to get a good transition. Didn't leave it pretty but its under the carpet and probably the strongest part of the floor now

                            2. Cut fiberglass cloth too big, had to go back and trim

                            3. Couldn't find carpet to match.


                            Attached files

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Great job, the only thing I'll add is that what causes the decks in these bosts to rot is the construction used. The carpet over a plywood deck that is only thinly coated in glass and holes are drilled to mount seats and are not sealed is a gaurantee recipie for rot in a boat that gets wet!

                              Now boats used in the arid Southwest may not suffer from this but anywhere it gets damp you will see rotted decks with this construction.

                              Been there and done that and when I redid my 88 F/W 10 years ago I decided to get rid of all the carpet on the deck and after it was repaired it was gelcoated in non skid gelcoat. Then when holes were drilled for mounting seats all the holes were sealed with 3M 4200.

                              Ten years later it is still solid no soft spots and this boat is used and stored outside in a very damp climate.

                              So if you have a boat built this way and want it to last rip up that carpet; re glass the deck if needed; gelcoat it and seal those holes. That will add 10+ years to the life of the boat....
                              88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                              Long Island Sound Region

                              Comment

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