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Lower Drive Damage-gctid821083

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    Lower Drive Damage-gctid821083

    Afternoon All,

    Over the weekend I hit a submerged buoy with chain and rope attacked, was floating enough to keep chain and rope just under the surface of the water. After pulling it out I noticed a chuck of metal missing from my lower drive, I don't have an actual picture but found a suitable example off the internet. Attached.

    Is this something to be overly concerned about? It looks like cast metal to me and I don't see any cracks, just the quarter size chuck missing. From what we can guess we spun it once or twice on the prop until the rope snaped and chain sank. Prop has some new shinny edges but not to worried about it, its an old aluminum.


    Attached files


    #2
    Ain't chit keep boating till the winter, if you want you can get a piece welded up.
    Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

    1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

    '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

    Manalapan N.J

    Comment


      #3
      If it's a small piece missing off the cavitation plate area (like the area you've circled in yellow) then it's like chief said. You may however want to verify the prop shaft has not been bent, be a good idea to check it for runout after winding up someone's buoy line.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556
      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the quick responses, glad to hear its not as bad as I had originally forecast.

        As for the repair, I did speak to a couple shops about repair estimates and they suggested just using an epoxy putty, fill the missing chunk, sand an paint. I figure its work a shot.

        Comment


          #5
          We didn't have to unwind any rope or chain off it, so hopefully not but a good suggestion.

          thanks

          Comment


            #6
            Turned out to be an easy fix. Always welcome after the initial frustration from getting damage. 2 thumbs up to reinforced epoxy putty. Splash of paint and ready to go




            Attached files

            Comment


              #7
              Builderdude had an excellent suggestion above checking your prop shaft for damage (run out). I had a similar situation many years ago, and ended up having to replace the total leg because the shaft had been bent and I didn't check it. It failed at a very bad time and place (Seymour Narrows, Vancouver Island).
              Bob Hawes.
              Kelowna, B.C.
              1998 Trophy 2052 WA
              4.3 Vortec, A1 G2

              Comment


                #8
                "bhawes" post=824421 wrote:
                Builderdude had an excellent suggestion above checking your prop shaft for damage (run out). I had a similar situation many years ago, and ended up having to replace the total leg because the shaft had been bent and I didn't check it. It failed at a very bad time and place (Seymour Narrows, Vancouver Island).
                Totally agree, had the prop off and checked the shaft with a runout gauge, no major deflections

                Comment


                  #9
                  That plate is a job for JBWeld if ever was one Get the big tubes at autozone it lasts forever and lots cheaper that way . The drive won't even notice I promise

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The leading edges of that prop look like they could use a bit of straightening and filing to smooth them up. A rough leading edge will cause major cavitation as well as being very inefficient.

                    Greg
                    Newport, Oregon
                    South Beach Marina
                    1986 3270 with twin 110 HP Hino diesels. Name of boat "Mr. Darcy"
                    Past work history: Prototyping, tooling, and repair for Reinell,. General fiberglass boat repair starting in 1976.
                    Also worked as heavy equipment mechanic, and machinery mechanic for over 30 years.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      No argument here, have a 4 blade waiting for next spring

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