Catastrophic steering failure Volvo 260-gctid820931

[Guest]

Really need help. Lost steering had to be towed in. 1984 bayliner 2850 Volvo 260. Open engine hatch turn wheel cables are turning top of drive inside, drive is not turning in the water. I fear the worst!! Can't do a pullout now. Anyone have any ideas at all??? Thanks in advance. Rick you have helped me out in the past. You have the most knowledge on these. Any help is much appreciated.

[Amadaies]

I will take a guess.

Part #47(steering arm) has a bolt that clamps it to part #2(steering yoke) Both parts are splined.

I think the clamp bolt has came lose at some point and has worn away the splines that are meant to keep them moving together.





Attached files

[Pcpete]

X2 on the steering arm clamp.

[Guest]

That's what I figured. Something with the fork. Anyone have any idea what the cost would be, does the drive have to be removed to fix it. Also what parts would be needed. Thanks for the responses!

[Amadaies]

Shop Ebay. Prices very though probably under $150. I believe you would need parts #2 and #47 but you will know for sure once you can get a better look at it. Careful as they make two different styles. Just make sure to match the part with the splines up with yours as there are 2 different sizes. I believe you can change it with out removing the drive if i remember right.

Also when you have it apart you should change parts #11 and #12 fallowing the manual instructions.

[Amadaies]

Another Tip from Bounty is the make the slot in the steering arm longer by a little bit so it will clamp better against the steering fork.

[Guest]

I'm not sure I follow that. Looking at the diagram I see the yoke on top which has the grease fitting. Is there a bolt that connects it to the fork? Do I need a new fork? I'm good with engines not with drives. I am pretty handy if I don't have to pull the drive.

[Amadaies]

The steering arm clamps around the steering fork and tightens down with a clamp bolt #48

[Guest]

So I probably have to have it hauled out and taken apart before I really know what I need to fix it. I was hoping to get the parts ahead of time. Has anyone ever changed or fixed one before?

[Amadaies]

Have someone turn the steering as you watch to see what is moving and what is not that should be. One other possibility is #13 could be broken.

[Guest]

I had my wife turn the wheel and #47 is moving in the engine compartment. I looked under swim platform and the drive didn't move at all. I peeked between the platform and the boat and I can see what appears to be the top of the fork. I really can't see much in the water but I know for sure the drive is not moving. Turning the wheel has very little resistance now. Just worried that things won't come apart easily as it's a 33 year old boat.

[Guest]

Does anybody know which drive this would be? I have a AQ260a motor, but not sure which drive. 1984 Bayliner Contessa 2850. Thanks.

[Guest]

You have identified that #47 (steering arm) moves with the steering wheel, so your steering up to that point is not your problem.

If #47 is moving and the steering helmet/steering yoke (#2) is not moving, then your issue is either steering arm clamp/steering yoke shaft interface is toast, or the steering yoke shaft is broken somehow (Never seen that though, seems very unlikely).

My solution would be to:

1) Pull the pin in the helmet to separate it from the drive

2) Remove the upper part of the drive (transmission). This is an easy and common thing to do.

3) Loosen the steering shaft clamp

The steering yoke/steering helmet should drop out on the rear. Check out the splines. I suspect you will find them toast as previous posters have mentioned

Also remove the steering shaft from inside and inspect it.

Sometimes the steering shaft clamp does not tighten easily and that's the reason for extending the slot in the steering arm. In the past I have also drilled the steering shaft so as to use a bolt with a nylock nut on it, rather than use the threaded portion of the steering arm. Much easier to get it to clamp with the bolt.

Of course, having said all this the tricky part is getting back there. On my Bounty it's pretty well buried with the twins. Hopefully yours is more accessible.

While you are in there check the condition of the bushings. If there is slop, replace them and take the opportunity to grease them with the best grease you can find.

Chay

[Guest]

Ok that helps alot. I have single screw so moving around is not a problem. If I understand you correctly this will allow me access to the fork which I assume is the problem. I am just hoping 33 years on the back of the boat with all the corrosion will allow all the bolts to come out. I guess I will get a new fork and all that goes with it. Thanks for the info!!

[2850Bounty]

You'll need to get the boat out of the water.

It could be one of several things:

..... the spindle arm pinch bolt has loosened up

..... the collar steering fork shaft has become compromised

...... the helmet may have broken

...... the helmet pin loosened up

.