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Exhaust rider/elbow leak-gctid818494

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    Exhaust rider/elbow leak-gctid818494

    Well I noticed a little steam in the exhaust Sunday so I popped the engine hatch and saw a leak in my riser/elbow. Water dripping out.

    I have closed cooling but since I have a plastic drain plug on the exhaust manifold (and water came out, not coolant when I winterized) I guess I only have s half system?

    So I'll need to buy new exhaust manifolds too?

    Safe to take it apart in the slip or do I need to put it on the trailer?



    Esteban
    Huntington Beach, California
    2018 Element 16
    Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
    Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

    #2

    Attached files

    Esteban
    Huntington Beach, California
    2018 Element 16
    Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
    Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

    Comment


      #3
      From bottom to top you have a Manifold, a Spacer/Riser and an Elbow.

      Before you attempt to crack any bolts loose, warm the engine up. This will reduce the likelihood of snapping a bolt off.

      You can finish removing the bolts when things cool back down.

      Post a few photos of the mating surfaces when you have it torn down.

      .
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        Crack the nuts when the exhaust is hot?

        Should I drip kroil on before heating up?
        Esteban
        Huntington Beach, California
        2018 Element 16
        Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
        Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

        Comment


          #5
          Penitrating oil Is always helpful. Yes it apears you have a part closed system. Personally I'd put it on the trailer before removing the exhaust components because you can
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556
          Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #6
            It never hurts but those are really long bolts and getting the penetrant to the threads is going to be a challenge with the bolts fully tight. I've had consistent success using a socket wrench with a long handle, a bending beam torque wrench works well, with steady pressure to break the bolts loose. I'd break a bolt loose the snug it back up then go to the next bolt.
            P/C Pete
            Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
            1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
            Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
            MMSI 367770440

            Comment


              #7
              Heat is your friend when it comes to this.

              Start the engine and allow the exhaust to warm up......... you have nothing to lose!
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                +1 engine warm.

                When you get to the mani remove both end bolts, buy 2 bolts about 2-3 inches longer cut off the heads install the bolts and remove the rest, now slide off the mani on the cut off head bolts, chase all the holes and install the cut off ones on the ends and do the do.

                Post back with the pics.
                Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                Manalapan N.J

                Comment


                  #9
                  ON TRAILER

                  Something always goes 'not as planned', to be at home with access to tools or equipment always ends up better.

                  Have done manifolds, spacers and risers (elbows) on both my last 2 boats, and went smooth as silk, no stuck bolts, not issues. Just prepare yourself to handle the wight of the manifold when you remove the bolts. Also have a couple of correctly sized studs to put into block temporarily to hold manifold gaskets in place for re-install, or what I did last time is tie them to manifold with thread prior to install and pull thread off (if possible) when couple of bolts have been installed. Not a hard job, just need to be flexible and deal with weight. Hint: I laid a 2x4 across from boat from side to side on top of gunwales, and used some rope to hold the manifolds just below installation level so I could position them then line up bolts. Ain't working alone a joy! Always people ready to ride on boat, but never around when time to work on it!

                  Comment


                    #10




                    I think I'll get new manifolds, risers, and spacers.

                    Anyone try the aluminum ones?

                    And so far, this 2859 has been a pleasure to work on. Roomy everywhere.


                    Attached files

                    Esteban
                    Huntington Beach, California
                    2018 Element 16
                    Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
                    Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

                    Comment


                      #11

                      Esteban
                      Huntington Beach, California
                      2018 Element 16
                      Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida
                      Former Bayliners: 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952

                      Comment

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