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Replacing Spun Prop while in water-gctid816282

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    Replacing Spun Prop while in water-gctid816282

    I've diagnosed my boat as having a spun prop, and will have to replace it with the boat still in the marina. My first time pulling a prop off.

    I've got one of those plastic wrenches, new nut and lock ring ready to go.

    I assume I can clamp a wood block to the plate for loosening the nut. Could probably use a small clamp and a rope on the prop blade just in case that might slip from my hands also.

    I have no idea how long its been spun, or how long its been on the boat (its a 97 Bravo II). Its a stainless prop, so I know its been replaced from stock at some point in the boats history.

    Is there any trick to pulling the lock ring tabs back? Screwdriver and/or a small pry bar with a hook end? Should the prop just slide right off? Or am I going to have to try to beat it or use a puller?
    97 2859

    #2
    Your prop wrench probably has a metal stud sticking through the small end. Use that in the eye of the lock tab and just pull away from the ring. No need to pry, the metal is pretty soft. You can also, unless it was installed wrong, hold the prop by a blade and back the nut off. If you have to use a block of wood to keep it from spinning it was installed way too tight. Hopefully you have a glass reinforced plastic hub. This setup means you will, after removing the nut and lock ring, slide the locking nut/sleeve off of the shaft then remove the prop and hub. Clean it all up, use a new hub, add some antiseize grease on the splnes, slip the lock ring nut on and make sure they all are seated then add the locking ring and nut. I tightened mine then backed it off a turn or two and wiggled it all, then retightened everything and the backed the nut off to where the second set of lock tabs aligned with the nut grooves. I never had an issue with a prop being locked onto ther shaft or any damage from doing it that way in over 2500 hours of operation. Just my experience, take that part or not, it worked for me. Others are going to have other opinions on that part.

    Now, if you have one with a pressed/glued hub there is a risk that the hub has bonded itself to the shaft. Pullers aren't agoing to help on that one as far as I know. I went away from them twenty years ago, but the fix for that then was to heat the prop to the point of complete hub failure at which point the prop literally launches itself off of the hub. Then the hub can be cut off. Antiseize grease will prevent that.

    Hopefully the whole thing will come apart easily. In any case it's nothing like pulling the prop on an inboard.

    Having a leash on it is a good plan as well as having a complete extra set of removable parts. You can guess how I know. Good luck.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    MMSI 367770440

    Comment


      #3
      Well, that was apparently not the cause. Pulled the old prop and threw on the new one and I was able to see that the center shaft is turning (missed lchecking that the first time).

      So now I'm stumped. Either my drive isn't engaged or i have something broke internally. It spins really easy which makes me think the drive isn't engaged - I'd expect some amount of resistance just from drive train friction?
      97 2859

      Comment


        #4
        With a B2 in neutral you'll easily be able to spins the prop shaft. What symptoms are you experiencing that lead you to a spun hub?
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556
        Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #5
          Drive not engaging sounds like...

          Ever shifted your Bravo 2 when the engine wasn't running?
          Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
          Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
          93 3058 sold
          92 2855 (day boat)
          91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
          Longbranch WA
          Life is Good

          Comment


            #6
            The symptom was running about 3k and only getting about 9 knots (GPS), as well as an odd vibration.

            Yes, the tranny is in gear when spinning the prop.

            Just wondering if I'm missing something obvious. Drive is up in trailer spot, key off, tranny in gear.
            97 2859

            Comment


              #7
              The bravo drive is not suppose to be SHIFTED when the engine is not running.

              This is so common at boat shows that the dealers actually disconnect the Bravo shift linkage first thing...
              Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
              Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
              93 3058 sold
              92 2855 (day boat)
              91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
              Longbranch WA
              Life is Good

              Comment


                #8
                So not even close to getting on plane at 3000 rpm and 9 knots and a vibration too. Spun drive coupler? You see any bits of rubber back at the drive coupler area. Smell like burnt rubber?
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556
                Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just an update - went out yesterday and she was back to running like normal. So it was in fact a spun prop. Sent it off to the PropShop today.

                  All in all, toughest part was bending the tabs back down.
                  97 2859

                  Comment

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