Installing an Anchor Lock-gctid398544

[Guest]

I am going to install a Lewmar anchor lock as shown in this picture:

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/702231=29500-Anchor Lock.jpg[/img]I have never installed something like this that requires me going through the deck. Any tips on this? Screw into the deck, or through-bolt? Do I put sealant in the holes? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Guest]

Hi Will,I installed that same chain stop and no leaks. The real problem is that device is a POS. My lewmar is so powerful I bent the pin and the G4 chain is quite small to go through the chain.Bought this instead and replced:

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/702234=29502-cs.jpg[/img]It's okay, If I was to do it over again I would get a chain stopper "cable" where it clips on the chain.Just my 2 cents.Thanks,Steve

[JimMc]

Drill through the deck. Tape the bottom. Run penetrating epoxy in to fill the holes. Let it soak for a few minutes and then remove the tape and drain the excess. Allow the epoxy to cure.

OR

Drill slightly oversized holes. Tape bottom and fill with epoxy. Allow epoxy to fully cure. Once cured drill your required size hole down thru the epoxy.

Then

Use bolts with backing plate, washers and nylock nuts on the underside.

Put the bolts thru the part and put sealant on the bolts near the part and on the part. Snug the nuts from below and don't let the bolts turn. Clean off the excess sealant. Once the sealant cures go back and tighten a bit more, again do not let the bolts turn.

[JimMc]

I second using a cable with a carabener or even a short piece of line to a cleat.

The small anchor lock you showed is not up to holding more than a few pounds on a pounding boat.

[Guest]

I like the line idea better than putting holes in the deck for something that may not be effective. Thanks for the input!

[JimMc]

I installed a cleat aft of the windlass in line with the anchor roller. This allows me to cleat the rode rather than having the strain on the windlass. You can also secure the anchor to this cleat with the short line mentioned above.

Installing the cleat is a bit more work. I traced the outline of it's feet and used a router to take off the non skid bumps where it was to sit so that it had a smooth flat surface to rest on. I then epoxied the holes as above.

Adding another cleat for me was required because of the changes I made to the anchor roller.

[Guest]

Slightly off this topic - how do you tighten the top of the windlass, the cap if you will? Do you need one of the wrenched that fits into the double square hole?

[Guest]

wfarr wrote:
Slightly off this topic - how do you tighten the top of the windlass, the cap if you will? Do you need one of the wrenched that fits into the double square hole?

It uses a sailboat winch handle. You should have one onboard to retrive the anchor if the windlass failed.Like this

http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...-0-0.jpg[/img]

[Guest]

JimMc wrote:
.

The small anchor lock you showed is not up to holding more than a few pounds on a pounding boat.

Have to disagree. I have that anchor lock for my 22# Danforth. The lock is rated for anchors up to 58#. I can't imagine being able to bend that 1/4" stainless pin given the width of the ears. After 15 years and experiencing everything lake Michigan can throw at you, I have had no issues with the lock.

Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...1004.jpg[/img]

[Guest]

Hi Captain,

I agree it's strong from waves, pounding etc. What cause my center pin to bend was I had a friend hit the raise foot switch on the windlass while the center pin was in and the Lewmar actually bent it (slightly I might add) long story short it took forever to get it removed actually having to take the ring off the other end and hammering it forward.

So, to clarify it was human error that bent it.

I am glad to hear yours works fine.

Since then I have labeled my foot switches (smile).

Thanks,

Steve

[JimMc]

captjmh wrote:
Have to disagree. I have that anchor lock for my 22# Danforth. The lock is rated for anchors up to 58#. I can't imagine being able to bend that 1/4" stainless pin given the width of the ears. After 15 years and experiencing everything lake Michigan can throw at you, I have had no issues with the lock.

I stand corrected.. Thank you.

[2850Bounty]

Doesn't part of this depend on what you need the stop for?

If you intend to anchor against it, then of course, you need something very sturdy like a cleat.

If you intend for it to hold the anchor from accidentally deploying while under way, then I suppose the stop would work just fine.

Anyone remember what happened to W's anchor?

Sheesh, that could be expensive.

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:
Doesn't part of this depend on what you need the stop for?

If you intend to anchor against it, then of course, you need something very sturdy like a cleat.

If you intend for it to hold the anchor from accidentally deploying while under way, then I suppose the stop would work just fine.

Anyone remember what happened to W's anchor?

Sheesh, that could be expensive.

Yeah - those locks are ONLY for keeping the anchor on the pulpit. I never imagined someone would think to use them for anchoring but I suppose--------!!!

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:
Anyone remember what happened to W's anchor?

Sheesh, that could be expensive.

Since I'm fairly new here, could you tip me off?

Thanks.

[yachtman]

Nursecarmen wrote:
Since I'm fairly new here, could you tip me off?

Thanks.

Hehehe.... lets just say it was bad. It does alot of damage when the anchor comes off while underway.

Make sure your anchor is well secured.