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Another 2556 tank pulling thread.....-gctid815659

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  • C-NUMB
    replied
    Originally posted by builderdude View Post
    Keep at it dude, you’ll have one sweet boat when she’s back in the water.
    Thanks for encouragement, that's needed! If I now would now exactly how many hours left to fix before she is ready, would probably burn it down... But luckily i don't so will put the dusty overol on and continue!

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  • builderdude
    replied
    Keep at it dude, you’ll have one sweet boat when she’s back in the water.

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  • C-NUMB
    replied
    Slow progress....plenty of work to get this one sailing again. If someone is interested, just for fun weighted the concrete that pulled out of the port side box: 160 lbs when dried.....! No fun to get the concrete out, it was sticking surprisingly well to the hull. The concrete was totally blocking the drain hole in the port "box". Will move the batteries to the port side, to the side of the fuel tank an adding a third one.

    Got the tank out. Inside was like a mirror, outside did not look to bad at first, but after closer inspection find several badly corroded spots(under masking tape put there by the factory !). Had the bottom plate totally renewed as also front and rear end plate of the tank. Should have had a new tank done but can not justify that cost now. At least had it fixed by a welding wizard specialized in aluminium work so should be fine.

    The "art" of laminating in the area where the tank is located looked just like Builder dude mentioned...Those "laminators" must have hated their job really bad....never seen something like that in a boat before. Need to remove some laminate layers from the box stringers and redo, they were loose already from the factory( huge bubles).

    Engine stringers was soaking wet, not rotten. However it does not matter, need to redo them anyway. Transom...dont know yet, but mentally prepared for a transom job. .....

    The good thing is that the actual hull seams to be well laminated and is in good shape, no cracks no damaged or water ingested laminate. Hull matrix is vinyl-ester i believe.

    Boat will be ready in the spring, the year will remain open

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  • builderdude
    replied
    "C-NUMB" post=815769 wrote:
    This is turning again (as always) to be a much more time consuming project than initially planned
    I know the feeling. I made collector boxes using epoxy and fabric, used the cheapie originals for a mold and put the hose connection at the top. Works great no more water coming in. I do however still need to do the starboard side :silly:

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  • C-NUMB
    replied
    Yes, that's the way to do it. The drive is rather new but everything else has to go. Planning also to change the engine vents and build a collector box for water with outside drain, poor design as it is lets water in. This is turning again (as always) to be a much more time consuming project than initially planned

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  • builderdude
    replied
    I'd recommend new filler, vent, and delivery lines for the fuel tank/system. When I rebuilt mine I replaced or rebuilt everything in the engine bay, easy to do when the engines not in the way :lol:

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  • C-NUMB
    replied
    OK, thanks. Will try to do it first that way then. The good thing will also have a good look in what condition the stringers are.. really hope don't have to re do them totally as that indicates also transom will be shot most likely. Funny thing is that all lines/hoses are still original, stamped 1990, must have been good quality those days. But can not understand that who ever did the re power did not change the fuel line.... still original !?

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  • builderdude
    replied
    "C-NUMB" post=815711 wrote:
    Did find some old threads on this topic. It appears that this can be done 2 different ways, either cutting the cabin bulkhead and cabin floor between the tank stringers, or then cutting more on the stringers in the engine room.

    Trying to evaluate the more convenient way but can not find pictures of either job. What are Your taught, need to do some laminating in any case? Would be tempted to cut the engine stringer in a 30 degree angle so the tank can slide out without hitting the cabin floor /bulkhead but is this sufficient ?
    [color]blue wrote:
    Yes, this is how mine was prepared by the boat yard where I purchased it. I ended up cutting engine stringers down to the hull for other reasons. The tank will likely be glassed in over the top to some degree so some force may be requiered to break it loose. [/color]

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  • C-NUMB
    replied
    Did find some old threads on this topic. It appears that this can be done 2 different ways, either cutting the cabin bulkhead and cabin floor between the tank stringers, or then cutting more on the stringers in the engine room.

    Trying to evaluate the more convenient way but can not find pictures of either job. What are Your taught, need to do some laminating in any case? Would be tempted to cut the engine stringer in a 30 degree angle so the tank can slide out without hitting the cabin floor /bulkhead but is this sufficient ?

    Leave a comment:


  • C-NUMB
    started a topic Another 2556 tank pulling thread.....-gctid815659

    Another 2556 tank pulling thread.....-gctid815659

    As having the engine out, decided to pull the tank of my 2556 project boat. Fish well removed, part of the bulkhead towards the engine stringers cut down, beam over tank removed and some fiberglass

    holding tank down removed. All done using a multi tool cutter, not to bad of a job. Want to check for corrosion, most likely need to renew the tank as its original from 1990.

    Need to remove some fuel before staring to removing it, my question , is this preparation work sufficient or do i still need to do some cutting to remove the tank?


    Attached files

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