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Ciera 2855-1996 hot water heater-gctid814097

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    Ciera 2855-1996 hot water heater-gctid814097

    My Ciera has fresh water tank and a hot water heater. I purchased the boat knowing the heater didn't work. So I am looking for a little guidance, can anyone recommend which one would be a good replacement? Thanks for the help.

    #2
    You may just need to replace the heater element. They are available at hardware stores for $20-$30 in various configurations. If the heater was turned on with no water in the tank, the element would fail very soon afterwards.

    So try this before replacing the tank.
    2007 Discovery 246
    300mpi BIII
    Welcome island Lake Superior

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the help, I guess that would make perfect sense......i have done that on the house water heater, didn't occur the boat heater would be the same(idiot moment).

      Comment


        #4
        I replaced mine with a west marine 6 gallon SS unit. I do agree with 706Jim that you can test the element and replace that part. You did not indicate if heater failed both connected to AC or also while engine was running. Installation went quickly. Re-seal any anchor screw holes made or reused during the installation. Fill those holes if you don't reuse the same mount points. Clip the ends of the hoses prior to hooking those up. While you have it out, hook up a tank bypass to use when winterizing. I preferred to use a commercial pipe thread compound on the fittings rather than teflon tape.
        cglazier - "Fiftybucks"
        1995 2855 7.4 bravo II

        Comment


          #5
          The hot water tank if equiped with an internal heat exchanger should still provide hot water even with the element non functional. This assumes that the system has been plumbed to do so.
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556
          Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the help, I went by the boat to look it over. Is the element behind a panel? Here is what I see.

            Comment


              #7
              Yes, the element is behind the removable panel at the water heater. There is also a reset behind the panel. FYI turn off the power at the boats AC breaker panel before working on the units electrical!!
              Dave
              Edmonds, WA
              "THE FIX"
              '93 2556
              Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
              Misc. projects thread
              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

              Comment


                #8
                Sam, cglazier makes a good point re; the winterizing by-pass-valve system.

                This system allows the Water Heater to be drained and left empty, and not requiring the 6 or so gallons of RV antifreeze for freeze protection.

                You can purchase a by-pass valve system, or easily make up your own.

                Dave..... I appreciate your calling this a Water Heater! (inside joke)

                And Sam...... if this water heater is a two-way unit ( i.e., electric and engine coolant), make sure that your engine coolant is plumbed correctly into the Water Heater's heat exchanger.

                GM engine:

                Supply = port in intake manifold prior to thermostat

                Return = starboard port of engine circulating pump

                .

                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #9
                  "2850Bounty" post=814257 wrote:
                  [color]blue wrote:


                  And Sam...... if this water heater is a two-way unit ( i.e., electric and engine coolant), make sure that your engine coolant is plumbed correctly into the Water Heater's heat exchanger.

                  GM engine:

                  Supply = port in intake manifold prior to thermostat

                  Return = starboard port of engine circulating pump

                  .[/color]
                  As far as the heater it self is concerned, there's no real in or out. The engine coolant just circulates though.
                  Wet'ever
                  1989 Avanti 2955
                  460 Cobra

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I also have a 96 2855. However I recently went way over budget upgrading the motor. I am now running a stock 99 454 MPI fuel injection system as well as 496 stroker kit with EMI headers thru hull exhaust. The boat runs bitchen across the water now.

                    When I bought the boat the water heater had been removed. I bought a new water heater and installed it. I want to run the heat exchanger side of the heater. I do not have an enclosed cooling system. I don't have any water ports off of my intake before the thermostat. I have one line plumed off the exhaust manifold before the riser, and the return i have run to the engine water pump plug right by the main hose intake to this pump.

                    the problem I am coming up with is running it on the ear muffs up to temperature, I am getting a lot more water out of my exhaust on the plumed side. It appears the Bravo pump is pushing water threw the water heater and dumping in the exhaust giving me a steady stream on that side.

                    I have been looking for info on how to plum this. I have looked at all the pictures I can find. I can't find anything for MPI using the heat exchanger. Is there a specific flow direction in and out on the water heater? I haven't been able to find anything that tells me so. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.



                    Comment


                      #11
                      Cmbrsum, the water heater doesn't care which way the coolant flows through it. There is a way to supply the water heaters heat exchanger from the top end of your mpi. If there is no visible extra port you may have to T into an existing one. You say your new engine is raw water cooled so there's likely a poosible port on the T stat but I can't confirm that as I'm unfamiliar with that raw water system (maybe remove the plastic and take a few pics of the intake manifold at/near the T stat area) The return from the water heaters heat exchanger will plumb into the engines cuculating pump similar to the pic this pic.



                      Attached files

                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556
                      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #12
                        "Cmbrsum" post=814539 wrote:
                        I also have a 96 2855. However I recently went way over budget upgrading the motor. I am now running a stock 99 454 MPI fuel injection system as well as 496 stroker kit with EMI headers thru hull exhaust. The boat runs bitchen across the water now.

                        When I bought the boat the water heater had been removed. I bought a new water heater and installed it. I want to run the heat exchanger side of the heater. I do not have an enclosed cooling system. I don't have any water ports off of my intake before the thermostat. I have one line plumed off the exhaust manifold before the riser, and the return i have run to the engine water pump plug right by the main hose intake to this pump.

                        the problem I am coming up with is running it on the ear muffs up to temperature, I am getting a lot more water out of my exhaust on the plumed side. It appears the Bravo pump is pushing water threw the water heater and dumping in the exhaust giving me a steady stream on that side.

                        I have been looking for info on how to plum this. I have looked at all the pictures I can find. I can't find anything for MPI using the heat exchanger. Is there a specific flow direction in and out on the water heater? I haven't been able to find anything that tells me so. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

                        [attachment]38160 wrote:
                        dawghouseb.jpg[/attachment]
                        That 496 HO really deserves a full closed cooling system.

                        Hot water supply port is usually located at the THERMOSTAT HOUSING.

                        Post a pic of yours.
                        Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                        Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                        93 3058 sold
                        92 2855 (day boat)
                        91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                        Longbranch WA
                        Life is Good

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hot water supply port is usually located at the THERMOSTAT HOUSING.
                          This should be a port within the coolant flow that is prior to the actual thermostat location.

                          The thermostat is what holds back coolant creating the necessary mild Positive Pressure created by the Circ pump.

                          .
                          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Rick, remember we talked about this already while back...
                            Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                            Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                            93 3058 sold
                            92 2855 (day boat)
                            91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                            Longbranch WA
                            Life is Good

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I remember it, you posted a diagram of it. If I recall correctly it was a 3/8 fitting in the t stat housing that would allow coolant flow from just underneath the t stat. Me thinks :silly:
                              Dave
                              Edmonds, WA
                              "THE FIX"
                              '93 2556
                              Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                              Misc. projects thread
                              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                              Comment

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