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    Weird ignition issue-gctid812941

    Having problems with my Volvo AQ125a.

    Had a shop replace my fuel tank and since I've gotten it back I'm having all kinds of problems.

    Took the boat to the lake yesterday and it would not start, just crank over until the carb flooded.

    Messed with it a little today, pulled the distributor cap off, visually inspected points, cap and rotor. Put it all back together, and tried starting again. It started for about a minute then died. Tried restarting and nothing.

    Pulled the cap and rotor off again, separated the points by hand, re-installed and tried starting again. Once again it starts on the first crank, but Once it dies, will not restart again until I pull the dizzy cap! What is going on here?! Makes no sense to me!

    #2
    Could be a bad connection at the engines wire harness (unplug and clean). Check for distributor shaft wobble. If there's none then install a new set of points (proper gap) and look hard at the wiring for the points/condenser, and coil for bad connections, corrosion, or partially broken wires etc. Temporarily "hot wire" strait to the coil and see if she'll stay running.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556
    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


      #3
      "builderdude" post=812952 wrote:
      Could be a bad connection at the engines wire harness (unplug and clean). Check for distributor shaft wobble. If there's none then install a new set of points (proper gap) and look hard at the wiring for the points/condenser, and coil for bad connections, corrosion, or partially broken wires etc. Temporarily "hot wire" strait to the coil and see if she'll stay running.
      A bad/broken connection could definitely be the issue. I should've thought that myself, after taking a look in the engine compartment I noticed one of my power wires running to the LEDs I recently installed was pulled out of the butt connector, which I can imagine happened while it was at the boat shop, so it is a possibility that one or more wires got moved around and are making a bad connection. Good pointer builderdude, I will check everything and report back.

      I'm going to replace points anyway. Actually have been thinking of ordering the solid state ignition conversion, as it doesn't seem to be much more expensive than a quality points and condenser set.

      I probably also should have mentioned the points themselves are a greenish gray color (corroded?)

      Comment


        #4
        You said "crank over until the carb flooded" .... Carbs don't flood unless the float is stuck if we take that literally, and since you just had work done to your fuel system it certainly is a possibility that you have contamination in your carb. It's quite possible that the time it takes for you to remove the distributor and play around with it it is all the time the engine needs to dry out enough to fire. And have you tested for spark ? When your at the parts store pick up a tester if you don't have one, they can make a quick and easy no spark diagnosis. Good luck !
        1990 3888 Bayliner, Twin 351's

        Comment


          #5
          "GearGuts" post=812978 wrote:
          You said "crank over until the carb flooded" .... Carbs don't flood unless the float is stuck if we take that literally, and since you just had work done to your fuel system it certainly is a possibility that you have contamination in your carb. It's quite possible that the time it takes for you to remove the distributor and play around with it it is all the time the engine needs to dry out enough to fire. And have you tested for spark ? When your at the parts store pick up a tester if you don't have one, they can make a quick and easy no spark diagnosis. Good luck !
          What I mean when I say flooded is, while cranking, the clear tube that runs up by the air cleaner shoots gas into the top of the carb, every few revolutions of the motor it squirts more and more, until there's gas inside the throat of the carb. But that 30-45 seconds it takes me to pull the distributor cap off and back on I wouldn't think would be enough time for it to dry out. I'm headed to the parts store, and to get my helping hand, and will report back with what I find. Thank you for all the suggestions and replied!

          Comment


            #6
            "2850Bounty" post=812976 wrote:
            "builderdude" post=812952 wrote:
            Could be a bad connection at the engines wire harness (unplug and clean).

            [color]blue wrote:
            I'll second that!

            This will be a white plastic, multi-pin, harness connector with black plastic covers over it.

            Roll the covers back and pull the connector apart.

            All of your engine data and control circuits will be within this harness connector.

            Examine all of the wire fittings.

            Give them a shot of electrical contact cleaner. [/color]

            Check for distributor shaft wobble.

            [color]blue wrote:
            Yes..... very important.[/color]

            If there's none then install a new set of points (proper gap) and look hard at the wiring for the points/condenser, and coil for bad connections, corrosion, or partially broken wires etc.

            [color]blue wrote:
            Ditto that.

            And use a Dwell Meter to set the contact points.

            Perhaps also replace the condensor.

            If you go with the Pertronix kit, be sure to re-set the BASE advance, and then also check the progressive and total ignition advance.

            [/color]
            How would I check for distributor shaft wobble?

            Comment


              #7
              If fuel is coming up the clear tube from the fuel pump to your carb, you have a bad fuel pump. Replace the Fuel Pump.
              Hino W06
              St. Louis, MO
              ”It’s A Wonderful Life”

              Comment


                #8
                "cptncptn" post=812989 wrote:
                If fuel is coming up the clear tube from the fuel pump to your carb, you have a bad fuel pump. Replace the Fuel Pump.
                Yes, your fuel pump diaphragm is ruptured. Summit racing has a great price on the mechanical https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt...r /> fuel pump
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556
                Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #9
                  Oh wow. I would've never thought that. Gas has always come up through that tube since I've had the boat. I'm guessing that would make it run rich? I pulled the plugs to check for spark and they were black and sooty.

                  I am getting spark though. Timing advance seems to be working as it should, it moves freely. I did lightly clean and re gap the points, and it fired right up. Once it fired up, gas no longer came out of the clear tube running to the air cleaner.

                  Pardon my ignorance here, but what exactly is that clear tube's function?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    "builderdude" post=812993 wrote:
                    "cptncptn" post=812989 wrote:
                    If fuel is coming up the clear tube from the fuel pump to your carb, you have a bad fuel pump. Replace the Fuel Pump.
                    Yes, your fuel pump diaphragm is ruptured. Summit racing has a great price on the mechanical https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt...r /> fuel pump
                    Would this work with the 2.3 Volvo? Says it's for the GM 5.0/5.7.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "PrestigeWorldwide" post=813000 wrote:
                      "builderdude" post=812993 wrote:
                      "cptncptn" post=812989 wrote:
                      If fuel is coming up the clear tube from the fuel pump to your carb, you have a bad fuel pump. Replace the Fuel Pump.
                      Yes, your fuel pump diaphragm is ruptured. Summit racing has a great price on the mechanical https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt...r /> fuel pump
                      Would this work with the 2.3 Volvo? Says it's for the GM 5.0/5.7.
                      Oops, always assuming V8 SBC my bad :silly:

                      The clear tube provides a way for fuel to be contained within the engine if the diaphragm fails. Your pump needs to be replaced. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt... 2.3 fuel pump price just doubled :S
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556
                      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #12
                        "builderdude" post=813005 wrote:
                        "PrestigeWorldwide" post=813000 wrote:
                        "builderdude" post=812993 wrote:
                        "cptncptn" post=812989 wrote:
                        If fuel is coming up the clear tube from the fuel pump to your carb, you have a bad fuel pump. Replace the Fuel Pump.
                        Yes, your fuel pump diaphragm is ruptured. Summit racing has a great price on the mechanical https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt...r /> fuel pump
                        Would this work with the 2.3 Volvo? Says it's for the GM 5.0/5.7.
                        Oops, always assuming V8 SBC my bad :silly:

                        The clear tube provides a way for fuel to be contained within the engine if the diaphragm fails. Your pump needs to be replaced. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crt... 2.3 fuel pump price just doubled :S
                        Thank you for clarifying. My idea of what it was was way off. I'm guessing that would cause some driveablility issues and rich condition dumping that fuel into the carb while cranking.

                        Well I found a Sierra pump for around the same price for the 2.3. I've had good luck with their products so far.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just wanted to give an update.

                          Got the new pump installed today. She fired right up and idled great. It's never run better. I appreciate everyone input and suggestions. Wouldn't have figured it out without you guys. Don't know how the shop didn't catch that though. May be time to find a new one for the work I can't do myself. But once again, thanks!

                          Comment

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