Not a good start-gctid812384

[cant_decide]

After finding out I had 60 gallons of watered down fuel in my 2006 242EC I had tank drained, flushed and filled with new fuel. All set to start her up, turn key, single click..NOTHING, turn key again, single click..NOTHING. Turned on cockpit lights and watched to see if lites dim when turn key..No, nice and bright. Checked voltage at batteries, voltage at starter..all good.

Could it be the slave solenoid?

If it is starter I feel like I have to remove manifold and riser to get at it. Slip neighbor tells me when I remove raw water hose from raw water pump, water will come gushing in from outdrive?

[Pcpete]

My experience is your slip neighbor is incorrect. The more concerning source of water coming in is the Y pipe. If you are going to leave the boat overnight with either of those open, just cap them off. You can, and I have, replace the starter without removing the manifold. It's a pita, but so is getting the manifold off and back on.

That said, try a couple of tests first. You have good voltage at the starter, the solinoid clicks, but if your ground wire isn't making good contact it won't allow enough amperage through to spin the starter. The lights and low amperage accessories will work, but the starter will act like what you are hearing. If the wires at the either or both of the ends of the cable are corroded, replace the cable. If, after cleaning up or replacing your ground wire connections at the engine and battery, you still only get a click, then I would pull the starter. The worst part is laying across the engines, I use one of those foam garage floor lock together mats to smooth things out.

I bought a replacement starter and solinoid for one of my 4.3's from Amazon for around $50 a couple of years ago. Be sure to buy the correct part number as there are two sizes of flywheel out there, and disconnect the battery cables at the battery. I used a broken head ratchet wrench with a long handle to break the two bolts loose on the underside. Then a ratchet end wrench to bring the bolts out to finger spin, then dropped one into the bilge. I have a telescoping magnet that gets used a lot for that. Now, the starter may take a bump, but it will move forward about a half inch and support itself while you reposition yourself to lift it out enough to remove the wires. Going back in, connect the wires, the starter will sit in its place for a second or two, so I like to tape one of the bolts so it's just peaking through the mount, slip it in and get that bolt started. Start the other bolt, pull the first bolt to remove the tape, reinsert it and tighten things up.

You can have a set of manifold gaskets (Marine, not car or truck) handy in case you do need to pull the manifold, but you should be able to do the starter without messing with it.

[builderdude]

Checking the negative cable connections (and the positives too) is a good idea, often they become corroded and cause issues. Also I'd jump the slave solenoid (with remote starter button) before anything, they often wear out and do as you've described.

[dmcb]

If you have to remove the manifold I suggest you remove one bolt, find a couple of bolts a bit longer with the correct thread. Cut off the head of those bolts. Replace a couple of existing bolts with these new bolts. Just finger tight should be good enough. Remove the remaining manifold bolts. Now you can slide it off without dropping it on the spark plugs. Also it makes replacing the manifold and gaskets easy. Everything is aligned.

Doug

[Pcpete]

Doug, that's cheating! Where were you with that tip a few years ago? :huh:

[cant_decide]

Thanks for all the tips. I have my work cut out for me this weekend. Hoping its just the slave solenoid. Sounds like a very easy replacement. Have to get it running for Tall Ships Boston Harbor on 17th. Boat has only ran for 40 + minutes since I bought it. Wife already wants it gone / sold.

First a tank of bad gas, now starting issue. I think the deceased original owner doesn't want me to use the boat. Anyone know a priest that performs exorcisms?

[captharv]

The slave starter solenoid is located on top of the engine, UNDER the mercathode module. After making sure there are no fumes present, use a screwdriver to bridge the top two terminals on the solenoid. If the starter runs, the slave solenoid is bad. They are thought to be water/moisture proof, however, the ad speaks with forked tongue. The inside where the solenoid terminals get jumped buy the moving disc, do corrode and render it inoperative, It will click but nothing more.

The solenoid is repairable if you have mechanical skills. BTW, the one from Sierra works just fine, and is cheaper.

If it is the starter, take it to a local rebuilder. Its cheaper most of the time.

[builderdude]

Slave solenoid isn't to much money and easy to replace.

Starters are also fairly cheap but on some boats can be a pita to replace. If you end up needing a starter go with the new gear reduction type.

[cant_decide]

Thank you all for your help. I'll post my results after the weekend.

[cant_decide]

After 11 hours the starter is off. Changed the slave solenoid and ..nothing..still a single click. removed the risers & manifold, 2 batteries, water hoses to get at starter. One bolt came off easily, second bolt furthest from fly wheel took hours. Not much room to work for a 6'2", 240lb man. New starter in hand. Will install this weekend.

[Chief_Alen]

You tried the starter with the spark plugs removed ?

[builderdude]

"cant decide" post=813334 wrote:
After 11 hours the starter is off. Changed the slave solenoid and ..nothing..still a single click. removed the risers & manifold, 2 batteries, water hoses to get at starter. One bolt came off easily, second bolt furthest from fly wheel took hours. Not much room to work for a 6'2", 240lb man. New starter in hand. Will install this weekend.

Don't forget to check all positive and negative battery cable connections for good clean solid contact.

[cant_decide]

New starter installed. Engine starts great . Idles smooth. Rev up the rpms. Put in gear at dock for a few seconds. Everything great. Idle back down. After a few minutes the engine gets ruff and dies out. Start it up again proceed with the same process with same results.

I am thinking that the carb has to be rebuilt now due to the bad fuel sitting in the carb for 3 + seasons.

Can anyone recommend a good carb place for rebuild kit or place to have it rebuilt?

[Pcpete]

Before you do the carb, there is a oil pressure shut down switch that you need to check. It's above the oil filter if you don't have the remote filter, if you have the remote filter, it's above where the adapter is installed. You can probably see it and the oil pressure sending unit by looking through the gap at the aft end of the port exhaust manifold and the Y pipe. It's the sender with two wires. Disconnect the wires and set up a jumper between the connectors. Now try the engine.

That switch shuts down the electric fuel pump in the case of engine failure of some sort. You may end up buying the mercruiser "kit" because that's what's out there. It adds a liquid resistant plug rather than the individual wire to male stud. I think I paid less than $50 at a merc shop..

[builderdude]

"cant decide" post=814130 wrote:
New starter installed. Engine starts great . Idles smooth. Rev up the rpms. Put in gear at dock for a few seconds. Everything great. Idle back down. After a few minutes the engine gets ruff and dies out. Start it up again proceed with the same process with same results.

I am thinking that the carb has to be rebuilt now due to the bad fuel sitting in the carb for 3 + seasons.

Can anyone recommend a good carb place for rebuild kit or place to have it rebuilt?

A good idea to go through the fuel system to clean and replace some things, fuel lines can deteriorate on the inside causing debris to plug stuff up. Opening up the carb is also a good idea after it's been sitting for 3 seasons.