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    Help needed separating house and start circuits-gctid812014

    What a mess, my boat had two batteries wired to a 1/2/Both switch and no less than 15 pairs of wires hooked directly to one battery or the other (several were lamp cord of course). So I got a box for two golf cart batteries and a blue-sea On/Off/Combine switch and finally got all the necessary battery cables in place but now I've hit a snag. I can't figure out how to separate out the "house" side...

    I've cleaned up all the lamp cord and accounted for all the wires at the battery except for one - its a heavier than the rest gauge orange with a purple stripe wire that was hooked directly to one of the batteries and disappears into a harness thats going forward toward the cabin. The fuse panel in the cabin is fed with a red with a purple stripe wire - an identical wire comes from the forward harness and disappears into a wire harness that goes into the engine. It seems like somehow I've got to change how these wires work but I'm leery of pulling wires out of the engine harnesses...

    Thanks in advance - the weather is getting so nice I've got to get this wrapped up soon!
    1998 Bayliner 2858
    7.4L MPI / Bravo III
    Harbour Village Marina - Kenmore WA

    #2
    I separate mine by whether they are used with the engine or without. The helm wiring is all starter battery, as are the gauges, trim tabs, trim, Nav lights, etc. My windlass and headlight is also on the start battery, because the only times I use them is when the engine is running.

    All electronics including radar, sonar, radios and the like are on the house battery. The cabin lights, aerator and fish wells are also on the house. The anchor light is the only helm switched item run off my house battery.

    I have three bilge pumps, two hardwired on the house, and one hardwired to the starter battery (all on fuses).

    It'll take a bit to make the change, but once you do, it's a secure feeling to know you have isolated the start battery.

    Now, I also wired the batteries very differently; I now use two MBSSs, one on each battery. Then I added a 200A solenoid as a cross-over, switched at the helm, so I can charge the house whenever I am underway. I have an ACR in the mix, but it rarely ever connects the two. Between the solenoid and the two main switches, I never have to leave the helm to charge the batteries, ....nor isolate them.
    "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
    MMSI: 367637220
    HAM: KE7TTR
    TDI tech diver
    BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
    Kevin

    Comment


      #3
      I think the heavier gauge orange wire with the blue/purple stripe is the charge wire from the alternator.
      Doug
      1995 2859 -extensively rebuilt/restored 2016/17
      496 big block - Bravo ll leg
      The Doghouse
      Prince George BC

      Comment


        #4
        Your 2858 would have been factory wired to run most all loads from the battery bank you've selected at the MBSS. Here is a pic of a Keep It Simple wiring schematic. It's been posted numerous times on this forum and is how I've personally done mine. It'll give you the ability to add future electronics without having to run them through the factory wiring harness.



        Attached files

        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556
        Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #5
          "builderdude" post=812037 wrote:
          Your 2858 would have been factory wired to run most all loads from the battery bank you've selected at the MBSS.

          Here is a pic of a Keep It Simple wiring schematic.

          It's been posted numerous times on this forum and is how I've personally done mine. It'll give you the ability to add future electronics without having to run them through the factory wiring harness.
          [color]blue wrote:
          Ditto Dave!

          KIS..... keep it simple!

          In my opinion, and re; this size boat......., there is no need to separate out house loads from starting loads other than via what the MBSS already provides.

          If wired and cabled as below, either battery bank selection can/will power all 12 vdc on board.

          It just becomes a simple matter of good and proper battery selection and battery management! [/color]

          [attachment]37273 wrote:
          MBSS and Acc panel Pos Neg 2.jpg[/attachment]


          Attached files

          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            So I guess in this scenario you manually switch to your "house" battery bank whenever you are at anchor so that the refrigerator/stereo etc doesn't leave you without the ability to start your engine?
            1998 Bayliner 2858
            7.4L MPI / Bravo III
            Harbour Village Marina - Kenmore WA

            Comment


              #7
              "njosephson" post=812104 wrote:
              So I guess in this scenario you manually switch to your "house" battery bank whenever you are at anchor so that the refrigerator/stereo etc doesn't leave you without the ability to start your engine?
              By their drawing, that is correct. If you only pilot to a spot, drop anchor and sit for a day or so, this system works great.

              I, however, am starting and stopping regularly while fishing. There WERE times when CRAFT disease took over and I'd forget to switch the MBSS. So, rather than touch the big switch, I flip a toggle switch at the helm. That's why I separated my systems and use a solenoid to cross them over for charging. Whenever I fire up the engine, I switch it on, then switch it off when I shut it down. I also have the voltage alarm on my GPS set to 11V, so I know immediately that I need to charge my house battery. To this brain, that IS KIS.
              "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
              MMSI: 367637220
              HAM: KE7TTR
              TDI tech diver
              BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
              Kevin

              Comment


                #8
                +1 Sketch96
                1990 3288 twin 150 Hinos
                previous: 1964 28' Owens express cruiser, v8 crusader

                Comment


                  #9
                  Alternator charge wire shouldn't terminate at the battery...
                  Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                  Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                  93 3058 sold
                  92 2855 (day boat)
                  91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                  Longbranch WA
                  Life is Good

                  Comment


                    #10
                    "njosephson" post=812104 wrote:
                    So I guess in this scenario you manually switch to your "house" battery bank whenever you are at anchor so that the refrigerator/stereo etc doesn't leave you without the ability to start your engine?
                    Pretty much. I start, warm the engine, and leave the harbor on #1 (start bank) Before I throttle up to get on plane I switch over to #2 (house) Run on, anchor, use house power etc. (for however long) on #2. If she won't start on #2 after an extended stay on the hook, I switch over to #1 and fire it up.

                    NEVER run the MBSS through the off position while the engine is running, the alternator doesn't like that.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556
                    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "Ruffryder" post=812247 wrote:
                      Alternator charge wire shouldn't terminate at the battery...
                      Agree, sounds like some things have been "rewired" on this boat.
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556
                      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment

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