Navigation Light Switch-gctid811206

[RCF50]

Okay my nav light switch went up on my 1987 Bayliner Contessa. I got a replacement switch plugged it up like the old switch was plugged and it does not work properly. maybe I got the wrong switch. I don't know what the original switch was but it had 6 prongs on the back. The switch I replaced it with also had six prongs on the back and is a Double pole double throw switch. Anyone have any insight? The problem I"m having is that in the anchor position only the front light in the all around white light comes on. on the old switch both lights came on.

Thanks,

Ray Fields

[HueyCrew]

Ray, on my SeaPro, the red compass light and the white 360 degree were the only ones that came on in the ANC position. I think the compass was wired in as a novelty more than a requirement although I could be mistaken. At anchor other vessels don't need to know which side of you they're looking at, only where you are to avoid you. I think up to a certain length anyways. My experience is center position is OFF Depending on how it's mounted and/ if marked, up or NAV should energize the navigation RED, GREEN (front??) and WHITE lights. Some smaller vessels also tie the gage back lighting into this position.

ANC or down position = down time, overnighting and stationary after dark.Folks just need to know that you are there, thus the White light (360, all around) only. The replacement switch hopefully came with some schematic/ diagram. If you have a meter One wire going to it should always show 12 volts DC when you put the red meter lead on it and the other to a good ground (i'd recommend a ground OTHER THAN the switch)Then use the OHM feature on the meter with the tone when you touch the meter leads together. That way you can "ring out" the the ground wire and the other pairs and when you get tone between them verify by testing the same two with the light bulb removed, say like for the white light. You get tone, pull the bulb. No tone put the bulb back in, verify tone and then label the pair and tape or zip tie then as a pair. By going through your boat ringing, ID'ing and making notes a little at a time, you'll be doing yourself two huge favors as I learned doing it. First you'll become more familiar with parts, systems and places you may not have known existed, Knowledge is power....and money that stays in your pocket. Secondly and more important, you'll slowly create a handy wiring diagram specific to your boat. Both could come in handy should you suddenly find yourself in the dark and adrift in unfamiliar areas with a current. Been there done that!

No telling if a previous owner replaced a switch and incorrectly reconnected it. Also switches can fail internally, corrode and even though you're feeling positive stops at each position......no telling what it's doing on the inside. Again been there done that. Good luck with it!

Dave

[MonteVista]

You may want to check your wiring connections. If you are using a single, 3-position (ON-OFF-ON) DPDT switch here is how the lights should be wired.


Attached files

[malancro55]

Would you mind re-posting the diagrams. I just had my navigation light switch on a 2018 e18 go out. I can't find any toggle switches that look anything like what I pulled out, so I think I'll have to wire in an SPDT or DPDT. I am replacing the navigation light switch but have a separate anchor light switch which is working.

[RCF50]

Thanks for the info. My boat has a stern running light. I think that's where I'm having my problem.

[MonteVista]

"RCF50" post=811598 wrote:
Thanks for the info. My boat has a stern running light. I think that's where I'm having my problem.

The all around light should be made up of a front section and a stern section that are lit separately, or both are lit for an all around light. The yellow triangles in my diagram represent those sections.

Good luck.

[alanmoor]

I just replaced my nav/anchor switch and had the exact same problem. I found that the old switch had a cross connect between two of the poles that I had to re-create on the new switch. I could see it by looking at the back of my old switch. If you can't see it or don't have your old switch let me know and I'll get you the diagram for mine.

[MonteVista]

Look at the diagram I posted in post #2; It shows there should be not just 1 but 2 bridges across the poles of the switch; these can be internal and/or external.

[RCF50]

Thanks guys I jumped the switch with a piece of wire which just did not seem right. I wish I could get a factory switch with the jumpers built in. I thank you for your input. If you get a line on a factory Bayliner switch place let me know.

Thanks again,

Ray

[MonteVista]

"RCF50" post=811682 wrote:
Thanks guys I jumped the switch with a piece of wire which just did not seem right. I wish I could get a factory switch with the jumpers built in. I thank you for your input. If you get a line on a factory Bayliner switch place let me know.

Thanks again,

Ray

Don't give up so soon! Here is a slightly simpler version of the diagram. You can use the Blue Sea System switchhttps://www.bluesea.com/products/8220/Contura_Switch_DPDT_Gray_-_ON-OFF-ON

[attachment]37176 wrote:
Boat Electric.ppt copy 2.jpg[/attachment]


Attached files

[RCF50]

Thanks for the input guys If I could find a toggle switch with that configuration it would be perfect.