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1988 Bayliner Capri 1950

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    1988 Bayliner Capri 1950

    Just joined please bair with me

    I just bought a 88 Bayliner Capri 1950 w/3.0 engine starts and sounds pretty good ounce on the water of coarse I found a few issues the previous owner didn't make known but bought for a fair price so can't complain to much anyways after running for about 30-45 minutes the engine bogged down and died and would not restart we let it set and cool down for about 30 minutes then it was trying to restart but was struggling bad I'm suppecting the coil ? Anyone had this type of issues before

    Other issue I ran into is the exhaust bellow is worn out and leaking would this be something that someone with enough no how to replace an engine in a car would be able to fix in there garage at home ?

    Last question ..... anyone know what size the stock prop is or what size I should be running for general fun and tubing with about 4 adults ?
    Last edited by Jim_Gandee; 08-22-2019, 08:25 AM.
    Ronnie
    Ohio
    1988 Bayliner Capri 1950
    3.0 I/O

    #2
    Suggest you to fill out your profile first.

    It could be the overheating coil or vapor locking possibly.

    88 1950 should have an OMC outdrive...Cobra 's exhaust bellows has slits so they will leak. I wouldn't worry about it.
    Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
    Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
    93 3058 sold
    92 2855 (day boat)
    91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
    Longbranch WA
    Life is Good

    Comment


      #3
      Ok good to know, I noticed a small leak when I put it in the water inside the stern behind the engine and thought maybe that's where it was coming from

      Do you by chance know what size prop it should have?

      When it was on the water it just seemed to have a high RPM (rpm and mph gauge not working another thing I'm working on)

      But it just wasn't up to as much speed as some other boats I've owned that had similar engines just curious if someone has changed the prop
      Ronnie
      Ohio
      1988 Bayliner Capri 1950
      3.0 I/O

      Comment


        #4
        Bogged down ... fuel tank vent clogged ? fuel pickup tube clogged ?

        Fix the tach and gauges first, before messing with the prop.

        4200-4600 is recommended wot rpm.

        14x15p - 3 blade, might be the ticket for a good all around prop for you .
        Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

        1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        Manalapan N.J

        Comment


          #5
          A 15 p prop will get you a lot of torque. I have a 17 and a 15p . The 17 i use when i know im not pulling the tubes or knee boarders and also when i have 4 or more adults i use the 15p.

          15p you will see about 29 mph at 4000 rpm, and the 17p will be about 38 mph at 4000rpm.

          Clean and rebuild the carb its not hard to do that may fix your problem too.

          Comment


            #6
            Stop worrying about props. Get the boat running right first...then worry about props.

            If you have a leak, it's not the exhaust bellow. It could be the U joint bellow (which you DO need to replace) or it could be something else - and you need to figure out where the leak is coming from, pronto.

            Once you fix that, you can worry about the bogging. It could be the coil, the fuel pump, the carb, or something else entirely. When was the last time this boat got a full tuneup?

            Third, props: This will be a series of trial and error testing. The main way to measure a prop is to run the boat up to full throttle, and make sure your maximum RPMs fall within the RPM range of the engine. On the 3.0, I THINK but I am not SURE that it is 5,000 RPM. If you are under that, you are overpropped. If you are over that, then you are underpropped.

            I can tell you that the diameter should be 14.5 inches. The pitch is the second measurement, and is how we will adjust the RPM once you get the boat running right.
            Matt Train
            BOC Site Team
            Chicagoland, IL

            Comment


              #7
              Depending on year 4200-4600 rpm at wot for his engine and year, just take my word for it this one time.

              The gauges must be fixed first, temp gauge is the all important one.

              The bogging could be the esa module giving up the ghost.

              Post back after the gauges are fixed, use this thread you started so i and the other members will chime in and look for this thread, i know i will be.

              I had your engine know every piece inside and out.
              Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

              1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              Manalapan N.J

              Comment


                #8
                Awesome thanks everyone for the help I will start with my gauges and the leak first

                As far as the U-joint bellow will I need to remove the outdrive unit to fix that?

                I'm fairly good at working on things I have just never done this type of work on a boat before
                Ronnie
                Ohio
                1988 Bayliner Capri 1950
                3.0 I/O

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes you do
                  Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
                  Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
                  93 3058 sold
                  92 2855 (day boat)
                  91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
                  Longbranch WA
                  Life is Good

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Good thing vacation is about to start I guess lol thanks again
                    Ronnie
                    Ohio
                    1988 Bayliner Capri 1950
                    3.0 I/O

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Ok so I found what was causing my loss of power and dying issue next question is where does the RPM wire connect on the engine ? Is it the alternator, coil or somewhere else ?

                      And I have a hose laying under the engine I was able to reach my camera under there and get a picture but unsure where it's suppose to be connected ?
                      Ronnie
                      Ohio
                      1988 Bayliner Capri 1950
                      3.0 I/O

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Well I was trying to upload pictures of what I found/finding but it won't let me for reason, anyways my power issues was my rotor button came apart inside the cap and beat everything in there to pieces

                        The hose I found is about a 1/2" OD and runs under the engine almost right behind the flywheel and starter hooked to I guess is called the inner transom ??

                        Can anyone tell me where this hose should go?
                        Ronnie
                        Ohio
                        1988 Bayliner Capri 1950
                        3.0 I/O

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I have that exact same hose lying down next to the bilge pump. Can’t see if or what it’s attached to

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The hose in the bilge might be an oil drain. (I added one to my boat). It replaces the oil drain bolt and can be pulled through the garboard drain hole to drain the engine oil.
                            1998 Capri 1950CL
                            3 Liter MerCruiser
                            Furuno 1622 Radar, Garmin echoMAP44dv, Garmin 300 AIS receiver, Uniden Cl 2 VHF with Hailer,
                            2 batteries with Combiner, Joystick Wakeboard Tower

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