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What does the bilge pump switch do in a Bayliner 2556?-gctid810231

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    What does the bilge pump switch do in a Bayliner 2556?-gctid810231

    Does the bilge pump switch in the console force the pump on? Or does it switch it to auto mode?

    After I bought the 2556 and played around with all the switches, I noticed the bilge pump switch didn't cause the bilge pump to turn on. I assume that meant the switch turned the bilge pump from off (never runs) to auto (runs when there's enough water in the bilge for the float switch to turn it on).

    Halfway through a shake-down cruise yesterday (first time I got to take the boat out since buying it), I heard a pump running after I shut down the engine. After I narrowed down the location to under the engine, I guessed it was the bilge pump. There was no water coming out the bilge pump thru-hull, but flipping the bilge pump button off caused the noise to stop, confirming it was the bilge pump. But now I see two possibilities for what's going on:

    [ul]

    [li]The switch toggles between off and auto as I originally thought. It did not turn on when I flipped the switch because there wasn't enough water in the bilge to trigger it. Some time during yesterday's trip, enough water came in to trigger the bilge pump. But its float switch got stuck high leaving it always on, and I need to fix the float switch.[/li]

    [li]The switch toggles between auto and on. Putting the console switch to off puts the bilge pump into auto mode - it is always powered and ready to run when the float switch triggers it. Moving the switch to on forces the pump to run regardless of whether any water is present.. The console switch was broken when I first got the boat, which is why I didn't hear any noise when I originally turned it on. But after an hour of pounding on the waves, something shook back in place and now it's working correctly.[/li]

    [/ul]

    So which is it? I'm used to these types of pumps having a 3-setting off / auto / on switch.
    1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

    #2
    The 3 position toggle switch is bad news in my book, the reason? It provides a way of disabling the bilge pump completely (not good) I'm wondering if that 3 way was added to your boat by the PO, mine is just a single on/off override switch as to run the pump from the helm if the float switch fails to kick it on or for testing. The float switch should be powered from an uninterruptible power source (fused of course)
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556
    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


      #3
      Ditto!

      Say NO to any Manual/Off/Auto bilge pump switch!!!!!!

      .
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        "builderdude" post=810239 wrote:
        The 3 position toggle switch is bad news in my book, the reason? It provides a way of disabling the bilge pump completely (not good) I'm wondering if that 3 way was added to your boat by the PO
        The boat's switch is not a 3-way. It's a 2-way, so I'm trying to figure out if it's auto/on, or off/auto (or off/on). The manual is useless and says it can be either depending on whether or not the bilge pump has a float switch. As the pump is underneath the engine, I haven't been able to determine if it does.

        The 3-way switches I'm used to are for a pumping lift tank at a building I manage. It's got multiple redundant pumps so you need to be able to turn them off individually to test or replace them.
        1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

        Comment


          #5
          To simplify, the switch should be AUTO or ON. Any odd behavior you may have observed has to be due to switch and/or connection issues, assuming the pump is functional.

          There should be no reason (and very dangerous) to have a switch position that can set the bilge pump to OFF. It is doubtful that you have this and if you do, it is recommended that yo eliminate this mode.

          Enjoy!
          Retired, computer expert / executive
          Bayliner 285 Cruiser / Mercruiser QSD 4.2L 320 HP Diesel
          Live in the Bay Area, CA, USA, boat in Turkey
          D-Marin @ Turgutreis in Bodrum/Turkey
          [email protected]
          [email protected]

          Comment


            #6
            "Solandri" post=810231 wrote:
            Does the bilge pump switch in the console force the pump on? Or does it switch it to auto mode?

            [li]The switch toggles between auto and on. Putting the console switch to off puts the bilge pump into auto mode - it is always powered and ready to run when the float switch triggers it. Moving the switch to on forces the pump to run regardless of whether any water is present.. The console switch was broken when I first got the boat, which is why I didn't hear any noise when I originally turned it on. But after an hour of pounding on the waves, something shook back in place and now it's working correctly.[/li]

            [/ul]

            So which is it?.
            Sorry for the confusion, your above explanation is how it should be
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556
            Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #7
              "builderdude" post=810293 wrote:
              "Solandri" post=810231 wrote:
              Does the bilge pump switch in the console force the pump on? Or does it switch it to auto mode?

              [li]The switch toggles between auto and on. Putting the console switch to off puts the bilge pump into auto mode - it is always powered and ready to run when the float switch triggers it. Moving the switch to on forces the pump to run regardless of whether any water is present.. The console switch was broken when I first got the boat, which is why I didn't hear any noise when I originally turned it on. But after an hour of pounding on the waves, something shook back in place and now it's working correctly.[/li]

              [/ul]

              So which is it?.
              Sorry for the confusion, your above explanation is how it should be
              [color]blue wrote:
              Perhaps this would be another way of looking at this.

              The main engine bay bilge pump will be operated by the float switch in the event of high water.

              The float switch should receive 12 vdc from an Un-Interruptible power source. In other words, NOT via an MBSS selection!

              The helm switch (an OFF/ON switch) will "over-ride" the float switch when in the "On" position.

              The helm switch power is Interruptible (via the MBSS), therefor we do not want to power a float switch from a helm power source. [/color]

              .
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                You might have a bad switch - when you turned it on it didn't make contact, then after a while it started working. I had 3 of my console switches go bad this winter which is why I thought of this!

                I also found out that my float switch on my bilge pump wasn't even hooked up to a hot lead (it was connected to the pump). This is after my "mechanics" (who I will never go to again) said they fixed it...
                1985 Bayliner Ciera 2750
                300HP Volvo Penta 5.7 with DP-A drive

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks all! Glad this is a problem which fixed itself, rather than a new problem which developed.

                  "alanmoor" post=810334 wrote:
                  You might have a bad switch - when you turned it on it didn't make contact, then after a while it started working. I had 3 of my console switches go bad this winter which is why I thought of this!
                  That's what it seems like. I'm gonna see if I can use a mirror to inspect underneath the engine next time I'm using the boat.
                  1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

                  Comment

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