Replacing controls-gctid809810

[Guest]

Original equipment control unit feels sloppy, worn as I advance throttle switching from forward to reverse, like when going slow to dock it is particularly noticeable. The cables look ok and probably were changed by a previous owner. How difficult is that unit to replace? any tips are welcome. I had it all apart last summer in process of recovering the sides vinyl on the boat. It was a pain to figure out how to get it seated correctly again so that I could start the engine!

Looking at a Uflex B183. My OD has no electrical tilt/trim so I just need the basic throttle advance/transmission control unit. Thanks

Joe

[Pcpete]

Cables wear from the inside. The moving wire wears on the housing making the moving wire have to find something to push against in places like bends. Try shifting and advancing the throttle with someone holding the other end from moving then seeing how much play is in the cable.

Just saying

[Guest]

I will try that. The feeling of the control is hard to describe. Advancing the throttle to speed responds normally like you would expect. Its the docking maneuver requiring small bumps forward and or reverse that I notice the play in the control. Hope that makes sense.

Joe

[Pcpete]

Yup, I have eight new cables in the back of my Exploder right now. I bought our 1988 3818 last August and the throttle cables from the lower helm are so worn that I have over an inch of play at the handles. I'm guessing they are original. Getting the engines to near a matching cruise speed is an exercise in bump this one, oops, the other backed off. Shifting the transmissions is mushy and there is confirmed excessive slack in them too.

I had the Uflex controls on my last boat and the only reason I replaced them was because of salt pimples in the chrome plating. At the time I was doing a total repower and the old engines had over 1800 hours on them.

[2850Bounty]

"Pcpete" post=809830 wrote:
.............. Try shifting and advancing the throttle with someone holding the other end from moving then seeing how much play is in the cable.

[color]blue wrote:
I like that idea.

And yes..... the inner cable (which is actually a flexible yet stiff wire) will wear against it's inner glide sheathe (a rather thin whiteish colored liner) .... especially at points where the cable makes tighter turns.

1985 Capri AQ125a/275 will be equipped with the Morse 33C style cables.

These are typically good cables.

The problem with the single lever controls, is that they first make the gear selection prior to operating the throttle.

Due to the mechanical mechanism that creates the transition, there is an enhirent lag between these two functions.

Even with a new control unit, you will most likely never be able to completely eliminate the lag!

But..... let's back up for a minute.

Take a look at all points of the 33C cable connection.... both at the throttle cable area and at the stern drive shift cable areas.

There is a small cable clamp at the front of the AQ series Intermediate housing. Make sure that this clamp is securing the 33C cable correctly.

Remove the shift mechanism cover from the drive, and take a look at where the shift cable attaches to the gear yoke. Make sure that you have a good solid connection here. Also make sure that the vertical linkage piece is secure.[/color]

.

[Guest]

Yes these look like the 33C cables that I see online in pictures. Not much play when I tested them out as described in the earlier post. I took the control box apart and left the cables secured and noticed that there was a broken plastic part on the lever handle side of the box so maybe this is what was causing my problem. Anyway I purchased a Uflex single engine control model B133 and installed it today. Not bad directions overall. But I must have screwed something up because I have ignition working fine but it stays in Neutral, meaning no shifting of the transmission. And there doesn't seem to be any way to orient the control lever so that it functions in warm up neutral mode?

I used the configuration for Pull operation of the Throttle cable since the throttle cable is fully retracted when in the Neutral position and would need to be pulled to open the throttle up.

Directions indicate that correct shift control operation depends on precise adjustment of the shift gear travel? a small diagram in the manual but not clear to me anyway. There are two holes where the transmission cable can be attached: one for 78 mm of travel provided by the control unit and one for less than 78 mm of travel by the lever. Not sure if this is causing my problem or not? I HOOKED I UP ON 78 MM TRAVEL AS IT CAME IN THE PACKAGING.

I will need to check all connections tomorrow and see if I can find the problem but any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks.

Joe

[Guest]

I reviewed the manual and made some connection changes. Here is what I did and the results:

Throttle cable set for Pull to open

Shift cable set on the outer hole (78mm/3.07") but positioned the rocker arm it connects to Up to match the picture in the manual

Results: No pull out of the Lever to warm up in Neutral

Pushing Lever forward only goes about 2" whether the button is engaged or not- limit is the shift cable retracting all the way

Pulling Lever backward goes the whole range both cables move in full range

Throttle moves pretty far and Shift moves till it retracts 100%

Same type and amount of movement of cables if button on Lever is engaged or not.

This isn't correct yet as far as I can tell with the cables. Not sure why the Neutral warmup isn't working at all too. Here is photo of my setup.

[Guest]

some problem uploading pics not sure why

[Guest]

These controls have me stumped. I have set them in every way that I can imagine with no luck. On another webpage today I saw a simple description of how to set them up: set the motor to Neutral at the outdrive and the Throttle at the carb to closed; set the new controller box to Neutral; attach the two cables and adjust them as needed keeping the controller box in Neutral. Set the safety switch so that the pin on the switch is depressed only when the controller is in Neutral completing the circuit and allowing ignition. Shift cable should be in mid position of its throw when the cable is set up and controller is in Neutral, but the Throttle cable should be at the end of its throw (which on mine should be fully retracted for the carb to be closed.)

Does this sound right?

Here is the picture of how it setup- I haven't tried the changes noted above yet.

[Pcpete]

Even when changing controls one for one there are going to be adjustments. You started in a seemingly good place but you are not getting the full throw. At the engine, and shift into reverse with the cable disconnected from the controls. See where the end I'd. Do the same for forward. Doing this should give you an idea of why it's not shifting orrectly.

[Guest]

Thanks Pete this has been giving me fits. I will work again this morning and see if I can sort it out. I would post a pic but for some reason even small photos won't load for me on this site. Joe

[Guest]

Finally some success on this problem. The OD was shifted into F and once I put that in N without cable connected at the controller, and put the controller into N it became obvious how to set up that cable. There was also a screw for lever friction adjust inc/dec and that needed to be decreased by several turns to get the right feel on the lever for ease of movement between F-N-R and all worked as it should. One more thing to be done: this control is supposed to have Neutral warm up for a cold start, which my old Volvo motor needs! Even with elec. ign I added years ago. But it won't budge. Supposed to move the lever outward towards the operator therefore disengaging any chance of revving it in gear for initial start.

IF anyone has one of the Uflex controls and can tell me how this Neutral warm up should work I would appreciate it! Thanks

[Guest]

This control has neutral warmup by pulling the shift lever inwards towards the operator it is just a very tight fit.

I got the motor all tuned up and adjusted the throttle cable and adjusted the carb idle so that this old motor is running better now than it ever has before!

Hopefully we should have a nice summer using the boat now with all this worked out.