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Chargerand house battery set up-gctid809379

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    Chargerand house battery set up-gctid809379

    After working the bugs out last season, this season will see a new and improved battery bank. The stock bank is Batt 1- Starting/house, Batt 2- starting/house, Battery 3 genny. The house runs off of either battery A or B whichever you choose, on a standard grp 31 12 V Battery.

    I am going to try and get a set of 6V GC batteries set in place by using a group 24 starting battery for position 1 on the selector switch. I would use this battery exclusively for stating each of my thirsty big blocks. I will then remove the #2 battery and place the GC batteries in that space by turning them sideways. That will leave enough room for the dedicated Genny battery, and hopefully, more space for another set of 6V GC batteries. I will be replacing the charger with a ProMariner 1250P 50 Amp 3 bank charger. I will access battery 1 and the house (battery 2) by opening up the Master Battery Selector Switch and running lead one to the lug for battery 1 on the rear of the switch, and the same for lead 2, at the back of the switch. As for the Genny battery, I would also access that from the rear of its own selector ON/OFF switch. This leaves me with the single ground lead from the charger. Do I run the ground to a terminal block, and then run a lead to each negative terminal of each bank, OR could I just run the negative lead to either the port or starboard engine, which should, in theory close the battery circuits and charge fully. I will have 60 AMP MAXI fuses at each connection on the battery switch and also at the positive side of the genny battery. I wish to ensure that I can stay on the hook overnight, have plenty of juice to run the fridge and lights and an inverter for todays no energy using LED TV. So, I would start on position "A". run and warm engines, charge battery, then move selector switch on "B" for the rest of the day.

    Thoughts welcomed, comments welcomed and also any ideas or things I may have missed??
    Tony, Cape Cod, MA
    Vice Commodore Bourne Yacht Club
    1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht
    454 Merc Cruisers inboards
    2014 10' hard bottomed Dink powered by 3.3HP Mariner 2 stroke

    I have the ProMariner 3 bank waiting to go into my 2655 as I've made it a two system (house/ starting) 3 bank (two in parallel for the house bank) setup switched via a combiner sw/ ACR Add-A-Battery kit from BlueSea.. Did a lot of reading up before choosing that charger though. I think it'll do just fine. I'd considered golf cart 6V's too but since I'm needing to stop spending and continue repairing/ assembling, decided to wait and see how the ones I got perform ( and how much room I have to work with too). I'll have a 3000W Honda HandiPortable aboard and will be backing those up with a solar tender panel for each bank atop the arch. Still on the fence with regards to Inverter and TV. My thinking being I'll be running the gen already for the a/c and my CPAP machine but an inverter may be the ticket for a TV and the fridge. I've converted the interior lighting to all LED too, to help reduce current draw
    Restoring/ upgrading: 1990 Ciera Sunbridge 2655 ST, "One Particular Harbour"
    5.7 Mercruiser Alpha 1 Gen 1 (my floating retirement villa if it doesn't kill me first)
    1995 SeaPro 210 C/C "Hydro-Therapy"
    Mariner 150
    Towing with:
    2002 Ford F 350 7.3L Super Duty
    Near High Rock Lake, N.C.


      Your negative lead from the charger can go to the negative terminal block to complete the circuit. For circuit protection I used the push button breakers mounted in an electrical gang box near the charger, keept things neat and they're all located in one area.
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556
      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

      The rebuild of my 2556
      Misc. projects thread