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Engine Room Heat-Shrink Question-gctid806029

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    Engine Room Heat-Shrink Question-gctid806029

    Out of an abundance of caution, I figured I should bounce this question off someone before I start my next project.

    I need to replace some butt connectors on the fuel tank sender wires in the engine room of my 285 Cierra. The connections are inches from the engine and fuel tank. What is the safest way to make waterproof connections here? Obviously not an open flame with heat-shrink connectors (seems like a good way to get a Darwin Award), but is a heat gun safe? Should I avoid heat-shrink all-together and wrap the connections in tape or something?

    I figure a heat gun is probably fine as long as I'm careful with where I direct the heat, but I just wanted to double check!
    2007 Bayliner 285 - Mercruiser 350 MAG Bravo III - "Always $umthing"
    Boston, Massachusetts

    #2
    Heat shrink with heat gun
    Joon, Kathy, Jaden & Tristan
    Uniflite 42 AC, DD 671N
    93 3058 sold
    92 2855 (day boat)
    91 Fourwinns 205 (lake boat)
    Longbranch WA
    Life is Good

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      #3
      Worked for years as a telephone repairman. We used Scotchloks all the time. The are grease filled and waterproof. No need for a heat gun.



      Lots of different types:




      Terry
      1999 Bayliner 3388
      Twin Cummins 4BTA
      Fisherman, Cruiser, Boaticus-enthusiasticus-maximus
      Member Royal Victoria Yacht Club

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        #4
        I would use liquid electrical tape to seal the connection

        Ron
        1989 3218
        1988 Boston Whaler 13 Super Sport Limited
        2007 Yamaha VX Cruiser

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          #5
          heat shrink marine connectors with heat gun but if your worried about explosive fumes then ventilate the area well.
          2003 Bayliner 245
          2007 Sedona F21

          Comment


            #6
            "Douggy" post=806110 wrote:
            heat shrink marine connectors with heat gun but if your worried about explosive fumes then ventilate the area well.
            +1

            And as you've stated directing the heat source away from anything "fuel" is good thinking.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556
            Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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              #7
              "builderdude" post=806119 wrote:
              "Douggy" post=806110 wrote:
              heat shrink marine connectors with heat gun but if your worried about explosive fumes then ventilate the area well.
              +1

              And as you've stated directing the heat source away from anything "fuel" is good thinking.
              That's the plan. I'll have the engine area hatch wide open with the blower running, so that should be plenty of ventilation.

              Thanks guys!
              2007 Bayliner 285 - Mercruiser 350 MAG Bravo III - "Always $umthing"
              Boston, Massachusetts

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                #8
                I did some heat shrinking with a lighter about a foot away from my gas tank last weekend. Didn't even think about it,,, until now. LOL

                (hatch was wide open all day)
                Wet'ever
                1989 Avanti 2955
                460 Cobra

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                  #9
                  I would suggest using "bare" butt connectors (no plastic insulation covers) with heat shrink tubing pushed onto the wire prior.

                  A heat gun would be good!

                  Steer clear of the connectors with heat-shrink-tubing insulation covers installed on them!

                  Even a high quality crimp tool can damage the heat-shrink-tubing causing separation when the heat is applied.


                  .
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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                    #10
                    "TenMile" post=806040 wrote:
                    Worked for years as a telephone repairman. We used Scotchloks all the time. The are grease filled and waterproof. No need for a heat gun.
                    Scotchloks are designed only for solid wire and only very light gauge wire at that. They're generally not recommended for marine use. They also only work on wires that are the same size. A properly sized simple crimp connector will work. Heat shrink will seal it up and give it mechanical support. That would be my recommendation.
                    Custom CNC Design And Dash Panels

                    iBoatNW

                    1980 CHB Europa 42 Trawler- "Honey Badger"

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