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Fuel tank inspection on 2859-gctid802714

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    Fuel tank inspection on 2859-gctid802714

    I am going to pull the fuel tank on my1995 2859. It's not leaking yet but because I'm going to pull the motor to repair the stringers I figured it's a good time to do it. (Motor mount lag bolts are stripped i the stringers). My questions are.....being a 1995 model and never been moored in saltwater what are the chances the tank would be OK possibly? And if it does look good on the outside with no corrosion, or very little corrosion can a guy coat or paint the tank with something and reinstall it? Being 22 yrs old has a tank ever been pulled and found to be usable for a few more years?

    Priced a new tank from coastline. 975 us. Plus going to pick it up in bellingham as the shipping cost was 695 us. Cheaper to go get it. Cheaper yet to coat the existing tank and hopefully use it for a few more years.

    I'm getting ready to cut out the floor above the tank in the aft bedroom today and will have the motor out in a day or 2. Will the tank pull out from the engine compartment with the 2 humps on the stringers where the motor mounts onto or do I have to cut them off completely? Was only going to cut the caps off the top of the stringers and dig out the rotten wood and replace the caps and fibreglass back on.

    Big project! Want to hear from others that have some experience so I don't waste time and money if possible.
    Doug
    1995 2859 -extensively rebuilt/restored 2016/17
    496 big block - Bravo ll leg
    The Doghouse
    Prince George BC

    #2
    IMO If the fuel tank isn't leaking leave it alone untill it does. You could have your engine out and make the repairs to your engine stringer towers, replace the coupler and be ready to go boating in a week or so. If it ends up that you discover transom rot or something more extensive then do it all at once. You can drill some 1/4" holes around the inner transom shield to get an idea of the transom cores condition.

    PS- the original tower area of my engine stringers were made from plywood, the rest of the engine stringer was solid wood. It was the plywood tower area itself that was completely rotted, the rest was solid with the exception of the top 1/2" or so.



    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556
    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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      #3
      I have always thought coating a new tank with polyurethane like Rhino Bed Liner would be awesome. You can get a bedliner company to shoot a tank for probably $100 if it's in their spare time and ready when they spray there next bed. That would make an impervious hard plastic coating that would protect it forever.

      If I had the engine out I'd do the same thing. $600 is a small investment when you know it's not so much WILL a tank leak... but WHEN. I'd rather it be on my terms, especially if you plan on keeping the boat for awhile.
      Custom CNC Design And Dash Panels

      iBoatNW

      1980 CHB Europa 42 Trawler- "Honey Badger"

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        #4
        Good morning , having gone through the pull the tank and coating route I strongly recommend it, yo more than likely will have some corrosion on the outside, my tank was that way, yes it will come out with the humps in place, I did a post on that with pictures, so lets see if I can find it.
        Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
        96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

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          #5
          http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/in...cement-on-2859

          Well as you can see I found it not as tech savvy as all you young folks, if there are additional questions I will fallow the post. Fritz
          Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
          96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

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